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Hanukkah: Celebrating Oil

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<i> Zeidler is a Los Angeles-based free-lance writer and cookbook author</i>

Hanukkah, the Jewish holiday that begins this year at sundown Dec. 1, is always a very festive occasion for my family. We gather together on at least one of the eight nights to celebrate with favorite foods and to exchange gifts. The children play Spin-the-Dreidel, a game that dates back to ancient times. This year a different flavor will be added to our menu--I’m including some of the recipes I collected on a recent visit to Italy.

This isn’t as odd as it might seem. Italian food is most often prepared with olive oil, and the traditional dishes served during Hanukkah are fried in oil to commemorate the tiny supply of oil that, according to legend, burned for eight days and nights in the ancient Temple.

If you’re worried about reducing fat--even during the holidays, a traditional time to splurge--use a nonstick skillet to cut down on the amount of oil needed. And, before frying, heat the oil to about 370 degrees. This way, the food will cook faster and, thus, will absorb less oil.

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The recipes I have chosen offer a wide variety of authentic Italian flavors. There is even a latke made with polenta instead of potato. Shaped into pancakes and fried in oil, it can be served with olive paste or your favorite topping.

Other dishes include the classic Mozzarella Marinara: cubes of seasoned mozzarella dipped in eggs, coated with bread crumbs and served piping hot with a tangy tomato sauce. Sicilian Crochette, made with Italian Arborio rice and filled with cheese, are hearty enough to serve for a vegetarian main course. This is a two-in-one recipe because you can also learn to make risotto.

For an Italian sweet touch, make Farfalette (Butterfly) Cookies. Ribbons of dough are twisted and tied into butterfly shapes, fried in oil and dusted with powdered sugar. Fill napkin-lined baskets with a dozen or so for an edible Hanukkah gift.

MOZZARELLA MARINARA

1 pound mozzarella cheese, finely diced

5 eggs

1 1/4 cups bread crumbs

1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons brandy or dry vermouth

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

2 parsley sprigs, stems removed

4 fresh basil leaves

1 cup flour

Oil for deep frying

Classic Marinara Sauce

Melt mozzarella cheese over hot water in top of double boiler over simmering water. Pour cheese into large mixing bowl of electric mixer and beat in 2 eggs. Add 1/4 cup bread crumbs, oregano, half of garlic and salt and mix well. Press cheese mixture into 7x5-inch buttered glass dish. Cover and chill at least 1 hour or until firm.

Lightly beat remaining 3 eggs in bowl. Blend in brandy. Set aside.

Process remaining 1 cup bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese, parsley, basil and remaining garlic in processor or blender. Transfer to shallow bowl and set aside.

Cut cheese mixture into 1 1/2-inch squares. Dip each into flour, then into egg mixture and finally into bread crumb mixture to coat evenly. Place on paper towels and refrigerate 30 minutes.

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Heat 3 inches oil to 370 degrees in heavy skillet or deep fryer. Fry cheese pieces, few at time, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve at once with Classic Marinara Sauce. Makes 8 servings.

Classic Marinara Sauce

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 onions, finely chopped

1 sweet red pepper, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, undrained

1 cup dry red wine

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat olive oil in large, heavy skillet. Add garlic, onions, red pepper, carrots and celery and saute until onions are transparent. Dice tomatoes and add with liquid to skillet. Stir in wine, oregano and sugar. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Bring to boil. Simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thick, about 30 minutes. Serve hot. Makes about 4 cups.

Each serving contains about:

446 calories; 794 mg sodium; 168 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 23 grams protein; 1 gram fiber; 46% calories from fat.

SICILIAN CROCHETTE (Rice Croquettes)

1/2 cup chopped or shredded mozzarella cheese

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons minced parsley

2 tablespoons tomato sauce

1 cup bread crumbs

Risotto

1/2 cup light oil

Combine mozzarella, Parmesan, parsley and tomato sauce in small bowl. Place bread crumbs in shallow bowl. Sprinkle hands lightly with bread crumbs. Scoop up 1 tablespoon Risotto in hands and shape into flat oval. Make indentation in center of each with thumb. Place 1 teaspoon mozzarella mixture in cavity and cover oval with another tablespoon of risotto. Mold into 2- to 3-inch oval, enclosing filling completely. Roll in bread crumbs to coat. Repeat with remaining Risotto and filling.

Heat oil in non-stick skillet and fry crochette in small batches until crisp and golden brown on all sides. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Makes about 12 croquettes.

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Risotto

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 1/4 cups Arborio rice

3 to 4 cups vegetable broth

1/4 cup whipping cream

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in large, heavy skillet. Add onion and saute over medium heat until tender. Add rice and mix well with wooden spoon. Add 1 or 2 ladles hot broth or enough to cover rice. Cook, stirring constantly, as broth is absorbed. Continue adding broth, little at time, until rice is tender, about 15 minutes.

Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter, whipping cream and Parmesan cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Continue cooking 2 to 3 minutes longer. Cool.

Each serving contains about:

229 calories; 427 mg sodium; 23 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.2 grams fiber; 69% calories from fat.

POLENTA FRITTA (Cornmeal Latkes)

2 1/2 quarts milk or water

2 1/2 cups coarse yellow cornmeal

2 teaspoons salt or to taste

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup olive or vegetable oil

1 (6-ounce) jar olive paste

Bring milk to boil in large, heavy saucepan. Slowly add cornmeal in thin stream, stirring constantly. Add salt and season to taste with pepper. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until liquid is absorbed and cornmeal is thick, about 30 minutes. Sprinkle large cutting board with water. Spread cooked polenta (cornmeal) evenly over surface with wet spatula to thickness of 1/2 inch. Set aside until completely cooled.

Cut polenta into 3-inch rounds with cookie cutter. Heat 1/4 inch oil in non-stick skillet and fry rounds until golden brown on both sides. Spread with olive paste. Makes 24 latkes.

Note: Olive paste is available in Italian markets.

Each serving contains about:

164 calories; 206 mg sodium; 14 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.2 grams fiber; 50% calories from fat.

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FARFALETTE DOLCE (Sweet Butterflies)

2 egg yolks

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/4 cup milk

1 tablespoon sweet wine

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 1/2 cups flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

Oil for deep frying

Powdered sugar, sifted

Beat egg yolks well in large bowl. Blend in granulated sugar. Add lemon juice, milk, wine and olive oil. Gradually add flour and salt, mixing well after each addition.

Knead dough on floured board until smooth. Cover with towel and let dough stand 30 minutes. Roll dough out very thin. With pastry cutter or sharp knife, cut dough into strips 6 inches long and 3/4-inch wide. Tie each strip into knot to make butterfly shape.

Heat oil to 370 degrees in deep fryer or deep, heavy pan. Fry pastries until golden brown on both sides, turning once, being careful not to crowd. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Cool. Place on large platter. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Makes 2 dozen.

Each serving contains about:

64 calories; 27 mg sodium; 23 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 1 grams protein; 0 grams fiber; 33% calories from fat.

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