SMORGASBORD FOOD TOPICS : Seafood by the Sea : Tucks Point has moved to an apropos new location--right next to Ventura Harbor.

In May of 1986, an obscure, Eastern-style seafood restaurant opened its doors in the Donlon shopping center. Word got around the county that one could find honest-to-goodness New England chowder there, as well as lobsters that sported big juicy claws. When East Coast transplants, as well as West Coast natives, got a taste of the cooking at Tucks Point Seafood, they were hooked.

Although the food was outstanding, feasting on a mountain of crispy clams while watching the drive-through window of McDonald’s did not cut the mustard--or, in this case, the tartar sauce. After five prosperous years, this problem has been resolved.

Starting this week, Tucks Point will be open for business at its new location. Most appropriately, it is at Ventura Harbor.

Perched above the carousel, the restaurant offers spectacular panoramic views of the harbor, the marinas and, best of all, the ocean. Old-fashioned lobster traps still garnish the establishment, but intimate booths and tasteful decor add greatly to the ambience. The dining area will seat up to 68 people. Limited banquet facilities are available.

For a more laid-back experience, there are stools at the oak bar. Those who want to take in the fragrance of the sea breeze can move out to the outdoor patio, which has ample room for up to 50 people.

The menu still offers Northeastern non-shellfish items such as haddock and cod, and the Boston baked beans and the coleslaw are both made from scratch. On cooler days, they offer a chowder boat, a crusty round of sourdough bread hollowed and ladled full of piping hot chowder.

Tucks Point will now be open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Sunday morning, there will be an “eye opener” from 10 to 11 a.m., when drinks such as Bloody Marys, screwdrivers and mimosas will be served on the patio.

With its bird’s-eye view of the harbor, Tucks Point promises to provide some remarkable atmosphere with its food. Sunset dining at this location could prove memorable. So get your seafood bibs and shellfish crushers ready.

* WHERE AND WHEN

Tucks Point Seafood, 1567 Spinnaker Drive, No. 200, Ventura Harbor. Call 644-2644. Parking lot; full bar; dinner for two, food only $20 to $50. Open seven days a week. Mondays through Thursdays 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sundays 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.