FASHION : Westerly Direction

“I put my heart and soul into accessories,” says Isaac Mizrahi, who is introducing his first collection of jewelry, belts and bags for spring, 1992, after designing ready-to-wear for five years. “They’re the most fun part of my collection to do and, I imagine, for a woman to buy.”

What’s fun in this first line are Western-inspired necklaces, bracelets, earrings, pendants, pins and belt buckles in rhinestones or etched gold, shaped like American eagles, steer heads and horseshoes.

“It looks like Van Cleef & Arpels or Cartier but it’s a steer head--sort of a hybrid of American craft but still sophisticated,” says the designer, who also created tooled-leather belts, cuffs and disc-shaped earrings with fringe for the collection.

“It’s important right now for Americans to look at our rich, historical past,” Mizrahi says. “The Europeans do it. We shouldn’t be afraid of referring to it.” Indeed, the Western theme made an appearance in his spring clothes for women.

Other items include jewelry--necklaces, bangles and earrings--based on Mizrahi’s signature tartan plaid, ball-shaped leather bags with zipper closures, totes that look like feed bags, and shoulder bags reminiscent of binocular and camera cases. A group of silk chiffon scarves, printed with anything-but-your-garden-variety mega-blossoms, is based on his new floral-print suits and dresses.

“I made the flowers gigantic to indicate there is some hysterical force at work,” he explains during an interview in his SoHo design studio. “I think it looks futuristic to blow a flower up so big. Use one of these scarves with a little black dress and it becomes an accessory in its most glorified form.”

Because Mizrahi’s pieces aren’t exactly subtle, he has some advice for women who are confused about just how decorative to be. Referring to the noted interior decorator of the ‘30s, he points out, “I would go one step further than what Elsie de Wolfe advised. She said, ‘Before you leave the house, take one thing off.’ I say either take one thing off or put three more on.”

Isaac Mizrahi accessories, which will be available in March at Neiman Marcus and I. Magnin, range in price from about $50 to $500.