Crucifer Power

A lot is happening on the vegetable front. Almost every week sees the release of a promising study showing that natural compounds have health-protective effects. The indoles in crucifers such as broccoli and cabbage appear to block carcinogens. The terpenes in citrus fruits seem to limit cholesterol synthesis. Vitamin A from carrots and yellow vegetables as well as greens is promising as a cancer-fighter, particularly for smokers.

And garlic is shaping up as the universal cure-all. Long used as a folk medicine, especially in the Far East, garlic is now getting the attention of the medical establishment. Controlled studies indicate it may--emphasis on the may, natch--lower blood pressure, reduce cholesterol levels and inhibit cancer.

Researchers are trying to isolate and concentrate the significant compounds to give us garlic’s healthfulness without its “social discomfort,” broccoli’s beneficence without the broccoli itself. While we’re waiting for this dubious blessing, how about some nice cauliflower with parsley pesto?

Crucifers do seem to be the most power-packed foods: Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, mustard greens, kale and collards all get the nod from the National Cancer Institute. To avoid steamed broccoli burnout, don’t forget coleslaw, perhaps in a garlicky vinaigrette dressing with shredded carrots. Or make old-fashioned red cabbage in red wine, shredding the cabbage as though for slaw, then steaming it with about a cup of wine for half a small head. A chopped apple makes a nice addition.

Brussels sprouts are great with nothing more than a light glaze of browned butter, a grating of nutmeg and a squeeze of lemon. They are transcendent, however, when briefly steamed, then sauteed until lightly browned in a bit of goose or duck fat. Combine the sauteed sprouts with a handful of roasted chestnuts and paradise will be yours.

This recipe, which looks like a delicious plate of greens, sweetened with citrus and pepper and enriched with lots of garlic, is actually a winter tonic, full of the power-vegetables that supposedly fight every ill from cancer to heart disease. Eat it as a main dish break from the heavier meals of the season, let it share equal billing with a simple (butter or oil and Parmesan) pasta, or enjoy it as an accompaniment to rich meats such as pork roast and duck.

Almost any greens can be used. My favorite is broccoli raab, the strong, strongly bitter crucifer best known to the cuisines of Italy and China. Kale is also good, and equally healthful. A mixture of curly endive and spinach is tasty too, though it packs a somewhat smaller pharmaceutical wallop.

WINTER GREENS WITH CLEMENTINES, SWEET PEPPER AND GARLIC

2 large bunches broccoli raab or kale, or mixture of curly endive and spinach

2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup coarsely minced garlic

1 large sweet red pepper, diced 1/2 inch

2 Clementines or 1 navel orange, peeled and diced 1/2 inch

1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Salt

Sugar

1/3 cup chopped pecans or crumbled crisp bacon for garnish, optional (best used when greens are to be main dish)

Trim greens, removing anything bruised or yellowed, separating coarse stems from tender shoots and leaves. Peel stems if necessary, cut in 1-inch lengths and set aside, coarsely chop shoots and leaves.

Heat olive oil in large skillet or wok over medium-low heat, add half of garlic and let stew until tender and just starting to turn golden. Don’t let garlic brown.

Add stem pieces, cook 2 or 3 minutes, then raise heat to medium-high. Add rest of greens, handful at time, stirring constantly. (They will shrink down quite a bit).

Reduce heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring often, 4 to 6 minutes for endive and spinach, 6 to 8 minutes for broccoli raab and kale. Greens should be tender-crisp but still vibrant green, and there should be very little liquid left in pan.

Stir in remaining garlic, red pepper and oranges. Continue to cook until garlic has lost its raw edge and pepper and oranges are heated through, about 2 minutes. Add vinegar and dash salt. Taste to adjust for seasonings (more bitter greens, more salt and sugar, up to 1 tablespoon or so for balance; don’t forget to allow for salt in bacon).

Allow greens to cool slightly before sprinkling on garnish. Serve warm for more flavor. Makes 3 to 4 main-dish servings, or 6 side-dish servings.

Each main-dish serving contains about:

253 calories; 179 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 3.48 grams fiber; 45% calories from fat.