Armani-Designed ‘Haute’ Cuisine

The best fashion designers don’t just design clothes, but a whole stylish world view. There are bedsheets and bath towels, perfume and mascara. And now, even dinner.

The new Emporio Armani Express, attached to the South Coast Plaza branch of Emporio Armani, ensures that no thoughts of mall burgers or knockoff chocolate-chip cookies disturb the calm elegance of the serious Armani shopper.

Look over the menu--set in celadon-colored type, a perfect match for the pale Armani green that appears in many of his outfits--and you’ll find pizzas and pastas, steak grilled with rosemary and pork roasted with porcini . All the stuff of trattoria eating to which we’ve become accustomed in Southern California.

In one corner, a pizza chef works a wood-burning oven. On a cart are antipasti. Everything, down to the Mao-like waiter uniforms designed by Armani and the saltshakers stamped with the Armani insignia, points to a real attempt to create more than a mall rest stop.

But as in most new restaurants, the kitchen needs time to work out a few kinks. “Homemade” lasagna noodles can be floury; one pizza was soggy. Crostini al tartufo, sort of a sucker appetizer, was just melted cheese on average bread without much truffle taste.

But there is real promise in this place. Grilled lamb chops were tender and smoky, served with good garlic-sauteed zucchini and roasted potatoes. And, maybe because so many Italians seem to be eating here, Armani Express makes one of the best espressos in the Southland. Order a ristretto and that’s what you’ll actually get: a wonderful short shot of espresso with a perfect head of crema.

* Emporio Armani Express, South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 754-0300. Entrees, $6.50-$18.95.