The Picks of the Pans

Saute pans get their name from the French sauter , which means “to jump.” The classic cooking technique is to shake the pan back and forth to toss the food and prevent it from sticking.

The pans themselves are wide and shallow with straight, perpendicular sides, differentiating them from sloping-sided skillets and omelet pans. The diameter can range from six inches to 14 inches; however, pans 10 inches to 12 inches are best suited for home use. All saute pans have a long handle; some also have a helper (or lug) handle on the opposite side. These pans are designed to cook foods quickly in a small amount of butter or oil. Most manufacturers suggest using the pans on a low to medium heat.

We borrowed 13 pans, ranging in price from $35 to $305, for our evaluation. They were manufactured from a variety of metals, metal combinations and finishes. Advantages and disadvantages of each material are discussed in the evaluation section that follows.

EVALUATION:

Each pan was evaluated on the following criteria:

* Evenness of heat.

* Durability of construction.

* Simplicity of use.

* Ease of cleaning.

To evaluate the evenness of cooking, a mixture of one-half cup sugar and six tablespoons water was poured into each pan; then it was placed over medium heat. In pans that had hot spots, the mixture caramelized over those areas first, rather than evenly.

In a second test, a large onion, sliced and separated into rings, was sauteed in each pan with one tablespoon of butter and one tablespoon of oil. A medium heat setting was used.

Testing shows that all construction materials used for saute pans have both pros and cons--none is perfect. Copper conducts heat the best among the metals commonly used for cookware; however, it reacts with food, so the pans must be lined with either tin or stainless steel. Because tin tends to wear away and must be periodically replaced, stainless steel is the better choice, although it decreases the conduction properties of the copper.

Copper pans come in different gauges. Lighter-weight pans are easier to handle, but do not cook as evenly as heavier models. All copper requires polishing to keep it looking attractive.

Aluminum conducts heat 50% to 60% as efficiently as copper. It is relatively lightweight, but is manufactured in different grades. Here too the gauge, or thickness, determines efficiency--thicker, heavier pans cook more evenly. Two drawbacks to aluminum are its tendencies to discolor and to pit. (Boiling an acid solution and scouring with fine steel wool will usually restore the original color.) High-acid foods not only discolor this metal but absorb a metallic taste.

Some aluminum pans are coated or lined to make them non-reactive. Coatings and linings vary, however, in their ability to resist scratching and often require the use of special implements. The metal may also be anodized by an electro-chemical process to make it non-reactive, as well as more resistant to scratching and sticking.

Pans made of enamel fused into iron or steel have smooth, stain-resistant surfaces and are available in a wide range of colors. The underlying metal, however, is not an optimum heat conductor.

Stainless steel is the poorest conductor of heat, but is non-porous, so it doesn’t react to foods and is easy to clean. Many pans are made of 18/10 stainless steel, meaning 18% chromium and 10% nickel have been added to the steel. Cooking over high temperatures will cause a rainbow-colored swirl to appear on the bottom of the pan, but this can be removed with commercial stainless-steel cleaner.

Some manufacturers add a bottom that has a layer of copper or aluminum sandwiched between two thin layers of stainless steel. This greatly improves the heat conduction, yet still makes the pan easy to clean.

CONCLUSIONS:

The best-quality saute pans are made of materials that conduct heat evenly and efficiently, thus eliminating hot spots and scorching. We found, however, that the medium heat setting used during our evaluation was not optimum for all the pans tested--some cooked better using a lower temperature.

Diameter and weight are largely a matter of personal preference, but medium to heavyweight pans tend to be more durable. Pans nine inches to 10 inches in diameter cooked the most efficiently on the 7 1/2-inch electric burner used for testing. Helper handles were found to be advantageous, particularly on the larger and heavier pans.

Handles judged best were made of materials that are poor heat conductors--stainless steel or heat-resistant plastic--so they stay cool when the pans are used on top of a range. Some of the handles tested have the added advantage of being oven-proof. It’s important any handle be securely attached to the pan.

Lids should fit snugly to prevent evaporation of liquids. See-through lids are convenient but breakable.

Ease of cleaning is another criteria to consider when choosing a saute pan. Avoid those that have areas that trap food, such as ridges or rivets with rough edges. Pans with non-stick surfaces cleaned the easiest, followed by those made of stainless steel.

A quality saute pan isn’t inexpensive, but it can be a good investment. With proper care it will last a lifetime. Many of the medium-priced pans tested performed well.

Make & Model: All-Clad LTD, Model 3403 Price: $165 Features: Charcoal-black anodized aluminum exterior/aluminum core/18/10 stainless-steel interior. Stay-cool stainless-steel handle. Comments Best Features: Sturdy construction. Long handle stayed cool. Biggest Drawbacks: Strong dishwasher detergents can discolor exterior. Uncomfortable handle. Make & Model: All-Clad Stainless, Model 3403 Price: $128 Features: 18/10 stainless-steel interior/aluminum core/magnetic stainless exterior. Stay-cool stainless-steel handle. Comments Best Features: Sturdy construction. Long handle stayed cool. Biggest Drawback: Uncomfortable handle. Make & Model: Analon, Model 81610 Price: $120 Features: Anodized aluminum/non-stick surface; no oil required during cooking. Oven-proof to 430 degrees. Comments Best Features: Even heating. Ease of cleaning. Biggest Drawbacks: Sharp metal utensils may harm non-stick surface. Breakable lid. Size and weight made it awkward to handle. Make & Model: Bourgeat, Model 3721-24 Price: $305 Features: 2.5-millimeter-thick solid-cop per exterior/stainless-steel interior. Cast-iron handles secured by stainless-steel rivets. Comments Best Features: Sturdy construction. Even heating. Biggest Drawbacks: Exterior requires regular polishing. Heavy. Highest in cost. Make & Model: Calphalon, Model GLC5003HCB Price: $106 Features: Anodized aluminum. Handle is oven- and broiler-safe. Comments Best Feature: Sturdy construction. Biggest Drawbacks: Handles became hot during stove-top cooking. Strong dishwasher detergent will discolor surface and void warranty. Make & Model: Chantal, Model N34-220SBL Price: $95 Features: Enamel-on-steel pan; stay-cool stainless-steel handle; shatter-resistant glass lid. Interior concentric ridges. Oven safe to 375 degrees. Comments Best Features: Cooked foods rapidly. Handle stayed cool. Biggest Drawbacks: Breakable lid. Somewhat uneven cooking. Make & Model: Copperal, Model 75611 Price: $87 Features: Bonded copper/aluminum base on 18/10 stainless steel pan. Stay-cool handle. Oven safe to 350 degrees. Comments Best Feature: Even heating. Biggest Drawbacks: Bottom requires regular polishing. Size and weight made it somewhat awkward to handle. Make & Model: Cuisinart, Model C33-24H Price: $140 Features: 3-layer bottom--copper sand wiched between 18/10 stainless steel; dripless rim; vented stay-cool handle. Oven, broiler and dishwasher-safe. Comments Best Features: Sturdy construction. Handles remained cool during stove-top cooking. Cooked foods rapidly. Biggest Drawback: Somewhat uneven heating. Make & Model: Cuprinox, Model PF-523.24/PF-529.24 Price: $195 Features: Copper exterior, stainless-steel lining, bronze handle. Comments Best Feature: Attractive appearance. Biggest Drawbacks: Exterior requires regular polishing. Handle became warm during cooking. Somewhat uneven heating. Make & Model: Millennium, Model C2510 Price: $85 Features: 18/10 stainless-steel exterior; never-stick interior. Stay-cool handle. Oven and dishwasher safe. Comments Best Features: Metal utensils will not mar surface. Handles remained cool during cooking. Ease of cleaning. Biggest Drawback: Construction didn’t seem as sturdy as many others tested. Make & Model: SIGG Las Vegas, Model PS-1474.24 Price: $139 Features: 18/10 stainless steel/copper sandwich bottom. Gold-plated handles. Comments Best Features: Appearance. Handle remained cool during stove-top cooking. Biggest Drawback: Not dishwasher safe. Make & Model: Slide-X, Model 24CM Price: $60 Features: Anodized surface/non-stick coating; no fat or oil needed. Stay-cool handle; dripless rim. Comments Best Feature: Ease of cleaning. Biggest Drawback: Construction didn’t seem as sturdy as many others tested. Make & Model: T-Fal Versailles, Model 32322 Price: $35 Features: Three-layer exterior (porcelain-clad outer layer)/four-layer non-stick interior; no fat or oil needed. Stainless-steel steam-vented cover. Heat-resistant handle. Comments Best Features: Ease of cleaning. Low cost. Biggest Drawback: Construction didn’t seem as sturdy as many others tested. Metal utensils not recommended.