Veal: Never Too Thin or Too Rich

It’s easy to overcook veal when it’s cut in wafer-thin scallops. Is there a way to avoid that? Mario Martinelli of Mario’s Cooking for Friends says there is.

“The secret to successful veal Marsala is cooking the veal quickly and at a high temperature,” he says. High temperatures seal the thin outer layer of the veal without overcooking the inside, which toughens with too much heat.

Martinelli has another tip: “Cook the sauce in the veal essence left after cooking the veal.” Beyond that, he advises using a high-quality Marsala and reducing it quickly.

If veal scallops are hard to find, substitute well-pounded chicken breasts or turkey scallops. You’ll get the practice without the expense of costly veal.

MARIO’S COOKING FOR FRIENDS VEAL MARSALA

Olive oil

1/2 pound mushrooms, cleaned and quartered

Salt, pepper

3/4 pound veal or turkey scallops, cut across grain, pounded

Flour

1/2 cup Marsala wine

1/2 cup chicken stock

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in skillet over medium heat. Add and saute mushrooms. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook until liquid has been absorbed and mushrooms tender. Remove from skillet.

Barely cover bottom of skillet with olive oil. Heat until slightly smoking. Dredge veal in flour to dust lightly, then add veal to pan. Sear no more than 30 seconds on each side. Season to taste with salt and pepper while cooking. Remove from heat and set aside on warm platter.

Heat same skillet and add cooked mushrooms. When hot add Marsala and reduce by half. Add chicken stock. Reduce by half. Add parsley, then stir in butter until just melted. Adjust seasonings to taste. Pour over veal. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

362 calories; 234 mg sodium; 122 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 34 grams protein; 0.5 grams fiber; 47% calories from fat.