THE WINE LIST

Bernard Erpicum is the maitre d’-sommelier at Spago (and before that, Ma Maison), the man responsible for the wine list at this most Hollywood of all restaurants. He has based the list, at least in part, on what the stars prefer. Erpicum knows that Dabney Coleman loves 1982 Chateau Giscours, $74 here; director Sydney Pollack prefers 1982 Chateau Cheval Blanc, $225; Michael Caine’s favorite Chardonnays are 1981 Kalin, $48, and 1987 Mayacamas, $40.

Creative Artists Agency co-founder Martin Baum, Erpicum says, “is one of the most sophisticated palates in the country. Usually when he comes in with Richard Attenborough, they drink 1947 Musigny from Noellat ($135).”

Dudley Moore once drank 1978 Le Montrachet from Romanee-Conti, $295, on his knees--it was so good.

Billy Wilder orders fresh oysters paired with Ladoucette’s Baron de L. from the Loire Valley.

Of actor Steven Seagal and his wife, Kelly LeBrock, Erpicum says: “He is a freak for 1961 Brunellos ($65). But Kelly is French--her father had a wine cellar--and she has a very sophisticated palate. She loves the 1981 Chateau Calon-Segur ($68).

“Michael Douglas has a home in Montecito, so he likes the Santa Barbara Pinot Noirs, the 1989 Pagor ($28) and 1988 Calera Jensen ($54).”

Roger Moore liked 1986 Grgich Cabernet, $38, so much that Erpicum has arranged to ship some to Moore’s home in Switzerland.

More of Spago regulars’ selections:

Gene Kelly: 1978 Chateau Branaire du Cru, $88; Michael J. Fox: 1978 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, $198; Chevy Chase: Chateau Calon-Segur; Capitol Records’ Joe Smith:1989 Kistler Chardonnay Estate, $46; George Greiff, Elektra Records: 1986 Guigal Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde, $66; Phil Collins: 1986 Kalin Chardonnay, $46; Herbie Hancock: 1987 Mayacamas Chardonnay, $40; Donald Sutherland: 1978 Chateau ChevalBlanc, $235; Sean Connery: 1987 Maurizio Zanella Chardonnay, $30.

Chris Squire, bassist with the band Yes, favors the obscure 1979 Pinot Noir from School House, $64. Artist Robert Rauschenberg loves the 1982 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, $44.

“I’ve known these people for the last 12 or 13 years,” Erpicum says, “so when they come in, they usually don’t look at the list. They just say, ‘Bernard, what do you have for us tonight?’ ”