1990 Gundlach-Bundschu Chardonnay, $11-- The Carneros...

1990 Gundlach-Bundschu Chardonnay, $11-- The Carneros district, south of Napa and Sonoma counties, grows some of the state’s best Chardonnay. Most winemakers barrel-ferment Chardonnay grape juice for more complexity, then put it through malolactic fermentation--a process that reduces some of the acidity and leaves a buttery aroma or taste. The wine is then aged in French oak barrels. Although the resulting wine is complex, it usually has less of the distinctive regional characteristics of the fruit--the flavor is masked by the processing.

Gundlach-Bundschu’s Chardonnay is the antithesis of that style. New winemaker Linda Trotta courageously fermented this wine in stainless-steel tanks, avoided any unnecessary processing, and aged it in French oak for just three months. The result is a delightfully fresh and appealing wine that shows off the flavor of Carneros’ spicy fruit perfectly. It should match well with light chicken dishes.