The Secret Is in the Sauce at Dad’s

Sometimes it seems the best rib joints are dark, smoky, uncomfortable places. But Dad’s Country Style B.B.Q. in San Clemente is a bright, pleasant spot. Situated in a tiny strip mall off of El Camino Real, it could almost pass for a yogurt shop, except for a few discreet hunting trophies on the walls, and that frighteningly large snakeskin pinned high in one corner.

The smoky-sweet barbecue sauce--slathered on pork, beef and chicken and generously flavoring Dad’s ribs and sandwiches--is the best reason to stop by. But it’s the side orders that offer an unanticipated deliciousness. There’s the corn bread, served with a smooth honey-butter, and the homemade mashed potatoes, smothered in creamy white gravy.

The tables and booths are comfortable, and peanut shells--a staple of cut-rate quaintness--scatter the floor. Because there’s not usually a crowd, the folks behind the counter will sometimes ask which channel you’d like the two TVs to be tuned to. The best aspect of the sometimes too-casual service, though, is that they bring a finger bowl and plenty of napkins, usually without your asking. It’s nice to know you won’t have to walk out with barbecue sauce dripping from your elbows.

A half rack of baby back ribs goes for $10.95, including mashed potatoes or steak fries, barbecue beans or corn on the cob, and corn bread with honey-butter. Two thick country-style pork or beef ribs with the same fixings are $7.95. The barbecue sandwiches range from $4.25 to $5.95. Besides the regular sauce, there is also a spicier Texas-style available.

For $27.95, you can get Dad’s Family Special, plenty for four, and probably far too much if the children are young. It includes a full rack of sweet baby backs or meaty beef ribs, plus a whole barbecue chicken. Real mashed potatoes, corn bread with honey-butter and either barbecue beans or corn on the cob come along.

Dad’s serves beer and wine--though it’s hard to imagine why anyone would want to sip white Zinfandel with ribs--and there is more than just barbecue on the menu. Other selections include burgers, cold sandwiches, meat loaf, spaghetti, a few seafood dinners, even salads and a tuna-stuffed tomato. There are freshly made pies for dessert.

There’s one more bonus: For a $2 charge on a minimum order of $10, Dad’s will deliver to a limited area, so you can let the barbecue sauce drip from your chin in the comfort and privacy of your own home.

Dad’s Country Style B.B.Q., 102 Avenida Victoria, San Clemente. Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Sundays. (714) 498-6770.