Fresh Way to Buy Produce

What you see is what you get--no fancy cellophane wrappings, cutesy containers, or other traditional green-grocer props.

“I come here because I know what I’m buying and who I’m buying from--at my age, that means a lot,” said Glen Thurman, a retired executive who is a regular at the Del Mar Farmers’ Market, which unfolds every Saturday afternoon--rain or shine.

Thurman is one of many locals who patronize the eight farmers’ markets in North County where California farmers sell produce in an open-air, swap-meet setting--generally in a parking lot that is visible and accessible to consumers and farmers alike. Markets are organized by farmers, city officials or nonprofit organizations, employ an on-site manager and normally operate one morning or afternoon a week.

Coming from small, family-owned farms, vendors travel from one market to another. Time schedules among the different North County markets are staggered to accommodate farmers with a variety of products to sell at each market--hence the reason why every market is not opened on Saturday.

These are definitely hands-on operations. Products are poked, smelled and sampled by consumers in search of plump, juicy citrus nurtured without nasty sprays, crisp leafy vegetables that can keep a family of four munching for a week, and ethnic delicacies required for the proverbial Chinese stir-fry dinner. Payment goes directly from consumer to farmer.

“It is immediate money,” said Richard Utter, a farmer from Valley Center. Utter says that he often waits 60 days for payment from a packing house.

“Farmers’ markets are marketing outlets at the grass-roots level--they offer consumers a real honest approach to buying fresh products at reasonable prices,” said Alan Usrey, manager of the farmers’ market adjacent to North County Fair in Escondido.

Farmers’ markets cater to the communities in which they are located. And although each market touts a cross-section of clientele, many serve a large number of seniors, young families and ethnic shoppers in search of special produce more typical of their native country than North County--black radishes, bok choy, Asian pears and others.

Products vary from one market to another, but consumers can generally expect a balance that includes in-season vegetables, fruits, flowers and nuts. Bakery goods, eggs and even fresh fish are standard fare.

Although produce must be California grown, farmers need not be local to sell at North County markets. In the same vein, North County growers sell their produce at markets elsewhere in the county and state.

Farmers are assigned spaces and most use their own marketing creativity--generally a simple table that butts against their pickup truck.

Prices and products at farmers’ markets fluctuate with the growing season.

During March at the Del Mar market, Imoto Farm from Bonsall was selling juicy vine-ripened strawberries for $2 a box or three boxes for $5.50. Caughlin was selling organic country salad mix for $2.50 a half bag and $5 a full bag, which included edible flowers. Known as the egg lady, Annie Hogervorst of Eban-Haezar Poultry Ranch in Ramona sold farm fresh eggs at $1.50 a dozen. Gladiolas were selling for $4 a bunch and daisies for $1.

At North County markets, be prepared to sample such goodies as shoofly pie from Lino’s Bakery; shrimp on the barbie from Drydock fish of Fullerton; honey dates from Glen Hollenback; and blood oranges from Les Myers’ 40-acre farm in Vista.

Not surprisingly, many shoppers at farmers’ markets are a lot like kids in a candy store--they think they should have at least one of everything they see.

Within the last decade, 175 farmers’ markets have sprung up throughout California. The North County contingent is growing and expects to increase this summer with one or two additions.

Every market is certified by the state of California--the San Diego County Department of Agriculture, Weights and Measures is the local governing body. Every farmer/vendor is also certified by the county agricultural commissioner.

According to Assistant County Agricultural Commissioner/Sealer Bill Snodgrass, San Diego County has the largest number of registered organic farmers in the state--136--and many of them sell their goods at North County farmers’ markets.

While some merchants have tried to discourage farmers’ markets in their neighborhood, most businesses see the upside--business breeds business.

“It’s all been really positive--merchants say it’s great and will help revitalize the downtown area,” said Oceanside’s Redevelopment Specialist Victoria Bowen, a key figure in the city’s Thursday morning farmers’ market.

Farmers’ markets have been around for several years under different guises. The first step was establishment of guidelines and operating standards, basically to protect the consumer, but also to allow the farmer to engage in direct marketing--the process of selling directly to the consumer.

In 1976, direct marketing legislation for farmers was introduced in the state, according to Mark Wall, San Diego coordinator for Southland Farmers’ Market Assn., a nonprofit organization that supports member farmers by offering an array of advocate services.

It took several years for the proposal to gain support in the industry and legislature. The state certification process was initiated in 1979.

Locally, farmers must apply for certification through the San Diego County Department of Agriculture. The fee is $40 annually.

“We’re looking for compliance,” said Snodgrass, explaining that the direct marketing laws exempt farmers from container, size and packing regulations.

Once the application process is under way, a department official visits the farm to verify the information on the application--such as inspecting the condition and number of trees and plants listed (certification requires ongoing spot checking).

The department wants to prevent farmers from selling culls or products that do not meet standards. To insure that consumers purchase quality produce, the Department of Agriculture follows the guidelines set forth in the California Food and Agriculture Code. “We don’t want the consumer defrauded,” Snodgrass said.

For instance, Valencia oranges should test 8-to-1 sugar to acid; Thompson grapes measure 17% sugar; and potatoes carry a 1% tolerance for decay.

Each farmers’ market must also be certified and must operate within special guidelines. While the County Department of Agriculture is the main enforcement agency, the San Diego County Health Department and Department of Fish and Game and other regulatory agencies also get into the act.

When you visit a farmers’ market, each farmer will display a certificate that documents acreage, number of trees, and the type of products he or she grows. The farmer can get into trouble by bringing in something that is not listed. All products must be California grown by the person holding the certification.

“You know if this farmer is bringing in 20 boxes of limes off one tree, something is wrong,” said Valley Center farmer Utter, who travels with his wife to a couple of different markets each week. That “something” may indicate that the farmer is selling someone else’s produce--possibly from outside California.

Farmers and other vendors pay each market manager 5% to 6% of their gross sales at the completion of the market day (arrangements may vary--a flat space rental or a fee above a certain dollar amount sold.) The honor system is used to report sales, but farmers tend to police each other quite well, according to farmers’ market manager Usrey.

“A man came here last year from Watsonville with his asparagus,” Usrey said. “These markets probably don’t seem like there’s much money to be made, but they add up--the guy from Watsonville said he could do $3,000 a week moving from market to market.”

Farmers selling organic products must abide by additional laws that fall under the California Organic Food Act of 1990, according to Snodgrass. Essentially, growers must not use synthetic fertilizers and chemicals.

And growing crops organically is expensive, said grower Stephanie Caughlin.

“I bring in tons of manure and nutrients,” she said. “I am feeding the earthworms--it’s more expensive than chemicals and sometimes we lose up to half a crop to damage.”

If a farmer is certified as organic and is found not to be growing according to regulations, a $5,000 fine could be imposed, Snodgrass said. Organic farmers not only pay a percentage of their gross to the farmers’ market, they also pay a percentage to the Department of Agriculture to cover the cost of enforcing organic regulations.

“We are being penalized for being organic,” said Caughlin, who explains that many farmers grow organic produce but won’t sell it as such because of the bureaucracy.

Peter Schaner is one such grower who cannot legally advertise his produce as organic, but customers and fellow farmers know differently.

“This is just how I want to grow,” said Schaner, a seven-year veteran of selling organic products (unmarked) at farmers’ markets. “I have little kids . . . I don’t like chemicals.”

As to the farmers who post signs saying “no sprays,” Schaner says they are “skirting the issue.” Many cannot afford to buy the natural nutrients, so they infer that the produce is organic, he said. Caughlin explains that organic growing begins “from the soil all the way up.”

Some locals fear that farmers’ markets are saturated--too many too soon. Snodgrass differs--he sees the demand increasing at the same ratio.

The process of starting a market is not easy, according to Gabriele Rogers, who is spearheading the establishment of a farmers’ market in Carlsbad.

“It took nine months for approval, and this is a project everyone wants,” said Rogers, manager of a wholesale florist company in Carlsbad. “I had no idea it would be that involved.”

Rogers says she has dealt with the city of Carlsbad, Coastal Commission, County Agriculture Department and other agencies to obtain permits, which required 10 to 12 sets of architectural plans, “yet no building or grading will be required.”

Rogers learned that when a parking lot is used for something other than its stated intent, a number of things must be considered, which include detailed information about exits, entrances and other items within the city code. Rogers’ original site was determined unworkable, but she is expecting an alternate location to be approved.

In addition to their broad appeal to consumers looking for just-picked produce, organic growing methods and varieties not found in traditional grocery stores, the markets appeal to bargain hunters.

The industry advocacy group estimates that consumers can save 20% to 30% by shopping at farmers’ markets.

Among others, the markets have attracted the attention of social service agencies that help needy families.

In a 1990 pilot program undertaken by the Southland Farmers’ Market Assn., a $1,000 grant was made to the downtown Escondido farmers’ market.

The association worked with Bob Klug, food and shelter program manager of the North County Interfaith Council. Klug printed $5 coupons totaling $1,000 and distributed them to low-income families. “They could not buy a purse at the art and crafts fair--these were just for food,” Klug said.

This program was so successful that Klug would like to see each farmers’ market work with a social service agency in the community to develop similar programs. He suggests that anyone interested contact the United Way for the name of a social service agency in their area.

Each farmers’ market has its own flavor.

Some are coordinated with a street festival where arts and crafts are sold. That is the case at the Vista Main Street farmers’ market, which is open Thursday evenings.

The festival concept has also been adapted by the Tuesday afternoon Escondido farmers’ market. Traffic is rerouted so that specific streets can be blocked off for vendor space and foot traffic.

The Temcula market is among those that cater to organic shoppers, said manager Gale Cunningham. One of the popular sellers is a living lettuce plant; consumers can pick what they want and allow the lettuce to continue to grow.

Fallbrook is one of the smaller markets, according to manager Charles Wolk, who intends to increase his operation with more farmers and possibly add another day before summer is out.

Just as vendors are regulars at certain markets, so are customers. Some follow not just markets, but specific farmers whose products they savor. It is not unusual for farmers to come equipped with “special order” items for their customers.

Among regular customers is Mary Mousaui, who owns Bellisario’s Pizza and the Rotisserie in Del Mar and buys organic ingredients every week for use in her restaurants from grower Stephanie Caughlin.

On a smaller scale, shopper Barbara Hindman of Escondido wears comfortable shoes and carries a giant canvas sack with her every Wednesday morning to the market near North County Fair.

When her sack is filled, she is finished shopping. Until the next week, that is.

WHERE THE FARMERS’ MARKETS ARE

The size and schedule of farmers’ markets fluctuates with the growing season and the ability of growers to accommodate market demand. They operate rain or shine. VISTA MARKET

Saturdays, 8-11 a.m. About 60 to 65 growers.

Vista City Hall, Eucalyptus Avenue next to the city hall parking lot on Escondido Avenue. Directors: Dick and Margo Baughman

ESCONDIDO DOWNTOWN MARKET

Tuesdays, 3:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. About 40 to 50 growers.

Grand Avenue between Broadway and Maple. Winter hours and location vary. Manager: Miles Kratka.

ESCONDIDO MARKET

Wednesdays, 9 a.m.-noon. About 25 to 30 growers.

3660 Sunset, East of I-15 near North County Fair. Manager: Alan Usrey

DEL MAR MARKET

Saturdays, 1-4 p.m. About 23 to 25 growers.

Del Mar City Hall Parking Lot, Camino Del Mar at 10th Street. Manager: Madeline Maciel

VISTA MAIN STREET FESTIVAL

Thursdays: 6-9 p.m. About 28 growers. Opening today, continuing through Dec. 17. East Vista Way from Citrus Avenue to Santa Fe. Manager: Ginny Sharpell

FALLBROOK MARKET

Fridays, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. About 6 to 8 growers.

Extended summer hours. At Main and Alvarado. Manager: Charles Wolk

TEMECULA MARKET

Thursdays: 2-5 p.m. About 15 growers. Extended summer hours. Old Town Plaza parking lot at Front and Moreno. Manager: Gale Cunningham

OCEANSIDE (New market opening April 30)

Thursdays: 9:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. About 20 growers expected. Third and Hill Streets, 500 block of Hill Street, next to Civic Center. Manager: Dwight Stoll

CARLSBAD (Proposed opening this summer)

Saturdays: 1-4 p.m.; site pending.

Manager: Gabriele Rogers