SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW : Passover used to mean matzo balls and brisket. But in California, old traditions are being revived and new ones created.

My appetite rebels at the thought of food prepared according to strict dietary regulations. Vegetarian regimes, macrobiotic menus, wheat-free, sugar-free and fat-free foods make me think of what is missing, not what is there.

So here I am, attending a lunch arranged by the Women’s League of Adat Ari El Synagogue of North Hollywood. The food is not only kosher but correct for Passover. During this holiday, observant Jews ban leavened food from their tables and also from their cupboards. Some, the Ashkenazim, won’t touch corn, rice, peas and beans--foods that could ferment on their own and rise as if they had been leavened. The allowable bread is flat, unleavened, cracker-like matzo and its derivatives--matzo farfel (crumbled matzos), matzo meal (like cracker meal) and fine cake meal.

In addition, the food must satisfy kosher laws. Meat and dairy products cannot be served at the same meal. Meats must come from animals slaughtered according to kosher precepts, and certain meats and seafood, including pork, rabbit and shellfish, are forbidden.

That sounds pretty restrictive, but I’ll try anything once. No, make that three, four, or was it five times? I dipped at least that often into a casserole of Apple-Plum Pudding, a wonderful, sweet-sour combination of apples, plum jam, raisins and matzo farfel seasoned with honey, wine and cinnamon. I certainly didn’t neglect the dried-fruit-and-apple pudding next to it. And I took several spoonfuls of a finely chopped mixture of fruits and nuts that was not pretty but tasted just fine. This was charoset , a ritual Passover food that symbolizes the mortar used in construction by Jewish slave laborers. (Passover celebrates the Jews’ release from bondage in Egypt.)

Lasagna made with matzo instead of noodles was surprisingly good. There was a carrot souffle I liked and a handsome, golden roast chicken that was stuffed with matzo farfel. Along with these I had Mexican-style gefilte fish, topped with tomato sauce. And I munched happily on chremsels , fried, honey-drizzled pastries made with matzo meal and stuffed with prunes and nuts.

Then there were the dairy foods--a pineapple-cheese kugel that, like the lasagna, was made with matzo, and a stunning layered vegetable terrin. The desserts added up to an overload of temptation--a chocoholic’s chocolate torte sprouting leaves of chocolate, a macaroon and chocolate mousse cake, an incredibly light frozen strawberry meringue torte, a walnut torte topped with grapes, a spongecake, chocolate-chip cookies, chocolate macaroons and dried fruit candies.

Why so much food, more than anyone could eat at a single meal? Because this was a launching party for “California Kosher,” a cookbook of contemporary and traditional Jewish foods compiled by the league. It took five years to produce the book, which is the league’s fourth. By now the members are pros at handling recipes. They triple-test each one; they test “blind,” which means they don’t know the identity of the contributor, and they fill out formal evaluation sheets.

“California Kosher” opens with descriptions of the major Jewish holidays and suggested menus. One non-religious holiday is included--Thanksgiving. (For that, you would serve chopped liver with rye rounds and eggplant caviar, turkey with stuffing, glazed yams with duchess potatoes, spinach-pear puree, cranberry sauce, a fruit platter, pumpkin or apple pie, pumpkin chiffon spice cake and/or fresh fruit pies.)

As prominent a holiday as Passover rates its own section of recipes, some for every day (Passover lasts eight days), others for the ceremonial Seder dinners. “This is the holiday where we go all out,” says Pearl Roseman, cookbook editor.

The remainder of the book is divided into recipe categories with introductions that tell more about Kosher laws and customs. Jews and non-Jews alike will find much to tempt them into the kitchen, and bakers will appreciate the tips on making perfect challah , the braided egg bread that is central to the Sabbath dinner (except, of course, during Passover).

“California Kosher” is available in some stores, or it can be purchased at Adat Ari El Synagogue, 12020 Burbank Blvd., North Hollywood 91607. Copies can be ordered by mail for $21.60, which includes Los Angeles County sales tax, plus $2.50 for postage and handling. Make checks payable to Women’s League, Adat Ari El, and send them to the synagogue. For further information, call (800) 786-9426 or (818) 980-3282.

The following recipes are included in the book’s Passover suggestions.

SEPHARDIC CHAROSET

1/2 pound pitted dates

1/2 pound golden or dark raisins

2 apples, peeled, cored and grated

Orange juice or wine

1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts or almonds

Grind dates and raisins with meat grinder. Add apples. Moisten with orange juice. Add nuts. Cover and store in refrigerator. Makes about 3 1/2 cups, or 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

234 calories; 5 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.51 grams fiber; 19% calories from fat.

STUFFED VEAL BREAST

8 to 10 pounds veal breast, or slightly more

2 pounds chopped veal

1 to 2 onions, chopped

2 eggs, beaten

4 to 6 tablespoons matzo meal

Salt, pepper

Minced garlic

1 onion, sliced

1 cup water, about

Have butcher cut pocket in veal breast. In large mixing bowl, combine chopped veal, chopped onion, eggs and matzo meal. Season to taste with salt, pepper and garlic. Stuff mixture into veal pocket and close with skewers. Place onion slices on bottom of roasting pan. Place veal on top, placing additional garlic on top of veal or in pocket. Add water, cover and bake at 350 degrees 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Add more water if needed. Uncover during last 15 minutes to brown meat. Test to check tenderness.

For sauce, combine pan-liquid and onion slices in blender and blend until smooth. Turn into saucepan and reheat. Carve veal on serving board and serve with onion gravy. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Each serving contains about:

756 calories; 440 mg sodium; 414 mg cholesterol; 40 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 88 grams protein; 0.16 gram fiber; 48% calories from fat.

CARROT RING

3 tablespoons potato starch

1/2 cup sweet red wine

1/4 cup margarine

1/2 cup matzo meal

1 pound carrots, peeled and grated

1/4 cup raisins

1/2 cup sugar

1 egg, beaten

Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

In small bowl, blend potato starch evenly with wine. Cream margarine and matzo meal in large bowl. Add carrots, raisins, sugar, egg, lemon juice and zest, cinnamon, ginger and salt and mix well. Pour into well-greased 3-cup ring mold or casserole. Bake at 350 degrees 1 hour. Unmold to serve. Makes 10 servings.

Each serving contains about:

153 calories; 196 mg sodium; 21 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.60 gram fiber; 31% calories from fat.

PASSOVER APPLE-PLUM PUDDING

2 cups matzo farfel

2 cups boiling water

6 eggs, beaten

6 medium-size tart apples, peeled, cored and coarsely grated

1 cup golden raisins

1 cup plum jam

1 1/4 cups sugar, scant

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

Oil

Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 cup sweet wine

1/4 cup honey

In large bowl, mix matzo farfel and boiling water. Cool. Stir in eggs.

In another bowl, combine apples and raisins. Fold farfel mixture into fruit. Add jam, sugar, cinnamon and salt.

Cover bottom of 3-quart glass baking dish with small amount of oil. Place in 350-degree oven 3 minutes. Add farfel-fruit mixture and bake 25 minutes.

Combine lemon juice and zest, wine and honey. Bring to boil. Pour over pudding and bake 25 minutes longer, or until golden brown on top. Makes 12 servings.

Each serving contains about:

329 calories; 135 mg sodium; 106 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 76 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.55 gram fiber; 46% calories from fat.

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE CAKE

1 (10-ounce) can macaroons

1/4 cup sweet wine, optional

8 ounces semisweet chocolate

3 egg yolks

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons coffee or water

4 egg whites

Slice macaroons in half vertically and reserve any crumbs. Line bottom and sides of greased 8-inch springform pan with 24 macaroon slices. If desired, drizzle wine over macaroons. Melt chocolate in double boiler.

In large bowl combine egg yolks, sugar and coffee. Slowly blend chocolate into yolk mixture. Beat 4 egg whites until stiff but not dry. Fold egg whites into cooled chocolate mixture. Pour into macaroon-lined pan. Refrigerate 2 to 3 hours or until set. Unmold and sprinkle macaroon crumbs on top. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

362 calories; 41 mg sodium; 141 mg cholesterol; 20 grams fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.03 grams fiber; 51% calories from fat.