Red and Green of It : It’s peak growing season for this crop. Choose one that’s firm, tightly packed and heavy for its size.

While a head of cabbage may be simple in form--a weighty ball of tightly compacted, crunchy leaves--this nutritious vegetable offers culinary versatility.

Its character can change completely depending on whether it’s prepared raw, cooked or fermented.

For instance: Fresh cabbage, in its raw form, has a slightly sweet, sometimes spicy flavor, while cooked cabbage--providing it hasn’t been simmered to death--is almost buttery-tasting.

And the finely cut, fermented version--sauerkraut--is unmistakably piquant and chewy.

Grown widely throughout the world, cabbage is an abundant crop in Ventura County. And this is its peak season.

Local grocers and area farmers markets are well stocked with high-quality, reasonably priced cabbage--both green and red types.

“Production is in high gear right now,” said Tony Bustillos, sales representative with Seaboard Produce in Oxnard.

Seaboard Produce grows several hundred acres of green cabbage on the Oxnard Plain.

Although cabbage is grown year-round, Bustillos said, much of the cabbage production goes on hiatus during summer. “During the summer months, we’ll only grow it along the coast where it’s cooler.”

Most of the county’s major cabbage growers--including Seaboard Produce--concentrate mainly on the green version.

The red type--while farmed by a few small growers--is nudged aside, assuming a bit-player role in the overall cabbage marketplace.

San Miguel Produce in Camarillo raises only the red type.

Jon Nishimori, a San Miguel salesman, said much of the red cabbage that is sold “is used more for decoration, such as adding color to a salad.” The green type is more of a meal staple.

“We only grow a little of it,” he said, “but we feel the red is more profitable than the green.”

Although there’s money to be made from cabbage, Nishimori said some growers shy away from it because acre for acre, the yield is not as great as that of other vegetables.

“It also requires more growing days,” he said.

For enthusiasts, cabbage’s simplicity may be its best quality.

For an easily cooked side dish, shred cabbage and steam it--or stir-fry--for a couple of minutes and let a dollop of butter melt over it. (Hint: If cooking red cabbage, add a teaspoon of lemon juice or vinegar to keep it from turning a faded purple.)

Cabbage that’s cooked quickly retains more of its vitamins, which include a healthy amount of Vitamin C and potassium. (And it’s low in calories.)

There is another good reason to cook cabbage properly--simmering the stuff too long can produce a foul smell that’s likely to linger.

To safeguard against this nuisance, Bustillos provided a cooking tip.

He says cabbage odor can be controlled by plopping a whole walnut into the water while the cabbage is cooking.

It’s worth a try anyway.

When looking for a fresh head of cabbage, Bustillos said to pick one with a smallish core with leaves that feel crisp, not wilted. Choose a head that is firm, tightly packed and heavy for its size.

If the outer leaves are separating from the head, the cabbage is probably overly mature.

“You want it to have a nice green color,” he said. Cabbage should stay crisp in the refrigerator for about a week.

The Thursday Ventura County Certified Farmers Market in Thousand Oaks has increased its operating hours. Located in the Janss Mall parking lot, the market will operate throughout the summer from 4 to 8 p.m.

The recycling office of the city of Ventura will conduct a free composting workshop April 25 at the Cornucopia Community Garden in Ventura.

Beginning at 10 a.m., participants will learn how to turn yard clippings, leaves and food scraps into a rich, fertile soil amendment. Preregistration is not required. The garden is on Telephone Road one block east of Johnson Drive.

For information, call the recycling office at 650-0884.

SERVING SUGGESTION / CABBAGE SALAD

1/2 cup chopped raw almonds

1 (8-ounce) package instant Soba noodles

1 head green cabbage, thinly sliced

8 green onions, chopped

1/2 cup frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed

1/2 cup rice vinegar

3 tablespoons dark sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Toast almonds at 350 degrees 8 to 10 minutes until golden brown. Watch carefully since nuts burn easily. Set aside.

Bring 6 cups water to boil, add noodles and boil 2 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Combine cooked noodles, cabbage and onions in large bowl. Set aside.

Combine apple juice concentrate, vinegar, oil, salt and pepper, mixing well. Pour dressing over salad and mix thoroughly. Refrigerate several hours, stirring occasionally so all ingredients are thoroughly marinated.

To serve, place 1 1/2 cups salad on large plate and top each serving with 1 tablespoon toasted almonds. Makes about 12 cups, or 8 (1 1/2-cup) servings.

Note: Salad is best made a day ahead.