No Strings Attached : Cooks welcome ‘zipperless’ Bluelake, Striker and Haricot Vert varieties at farmers’ markets.

Molly Gean says that removing it is as easy as “pulling down on a zipper.” But sometimes this simple task of yanking off the string of a bean isn’t even necessary. It all depends on which variety you’re preparing.

Green snap beans--the fresh kind eaten whole, shell and all--are commonly classified in two categories: those stripped lengthwise with a fibrous string and those without.

Both types are making an appearance at area farmers’ markets and roadside stands as the seasonal warming trend allows this summertime crop to flourish.

“The stringless varieties are a big hit with cooks,” said Gean, a grower from the Oxnard area. “All you have to do is snap off the ends and steam for about five minutes.” And it is this stringless characteristic that is beginning to push aside the grandfather of all snap legumes--the Kentucky string bean.

The Kentucky--or KY--continues to be the most commonly available snap bean at groceries. But given the need to remove its pesky string, consumers are switching to the zipperless option. With the hustle and bustle inherent in today’s lifestyle, Gean said, consumers welcome one less burden while preparing a meal.

Bluelake beans are the most commonly grown stringless beans. This variety is noted for its rich, dark green hue and crispness, Gean said. “The coloring is real beautiful and they are juicier than most other types.”

Does your local grocer carry this variety? Chances are no.

“The Bluelake is not so common to this area,” said Craig Underwood, part owner of Underwood Ranches in Somis. “In other areas, they are much more prominent.” In fact, the farming of all snap beans in Ventura County is small scale because of a market glut, according to Underwood. “The market is usually depressed with beans,” he said. “A lot of people (elsewhere) raise beans and generally the market isn’t real strong.”

A fresh batch of Bluelake beans, however will be available at the Underwood produce stand in Somis through the fall.

Gean and her family offer their Bluelake beans at both (Wednesday and Saturday) Ventura farmers’ markets and Thousand Oaks’ Thursday market. She said the farmers’ markets are the best place to procure a stringless bean. “The chains for the most part are sticking with the string types,” she said.

Gean also offers another stringless type. “The Striker is a lighter green and a little sweeter than the blue,” she said. While the Bluelake features a shelf life up to 10 days, she said, the Striker should be consumed sooner.

According to Underwood, you’ll want to keep an eye out for the more slender stalks. “You don’t want the bean to have too big of a girth,” he said. Younger beans are preferred because they will be more tender. “Those on the more mature side are less tasty,” he said.

David Sanchez of the Pismo Beach area hauls in a baby variety to a couple of area farmers’ markets. His French variety, the Haricot Vert, is harvested at an early stage to ensure tenderness. This four-inch stringless bean is stick-straight and colored a bright green. Drop them into salads raw, steam or stir-fry, but never longer than two to three minutes, he said. “The taste is similar to the KY, but a bit sweeter.

“We never let them grow bigger than three to four inches because they will lose quality,” Sanchez said. The Haricot Vert is noted for its “missing lumps.” There is no indication of seeds in the pod. “That’s because there are none. The whole thing is green pulp on the inside,” he said. “If they were left to develop on the plant, they would eventually develop beans,” but would no longer be considered a tender vegetable delicacy, he said.

Sanchez, who attends Ventura’s Saturday market, said the Haricot Vert can only be found in a few specialty stores. It is pricey. “They often cost as much as $6 a pound,” he said. His are offered for $4 a pound.

Ojai resident Russ Dilando grows a Royal Purple Robe stringless bean. If you’re prone to overcooking your vegetables, this colorful variety might help correct that problem.

“The purple color will turn green right at the moment it’s ready,” Dilando said.

Dilando will begin offering his bounty at Ventura’s Saturday market in about three weeks.