Merlot: Cabernet’s Little Brother

Sales of all California wine are just marginally ahead of 1991, but Merlot sales are off the charts.

In the last decade this Bordeaux grape variety has been slowly gaining fans as a softer, less-tannic version of Cabernet Sauvignon. Its dramatic success in the last few months is due largely to a televised report that told of the possible health benefits of moderate consumption of red wine.

Within hours of that “French Paradox” report on CBS’ “60 Minutes,” wine shops reported increases in all red wine sales, even to people who’d never touched wine. But shop owners said that by January, many of those new consumers were asking for something lighter and less tannic than Cabernet. The merchants recommended Merlot.

Merlot sales during the first quarter of 1992 were up so much that some wineries sold a year’s supply in two months. Louis Martini Winery is completely sold out of their Merlot, mid-way through the year. Sales of Merlot at Newton Winery are 25 to 30% ahead of last year. And there were other signs that Merlot is more than a flash in the pan:

* On its 25th anniversary, the Robert Mondavi Winery released the winery’s first wine from the variety. The 1989 Mondavi Merlot ($18) is a fairly deep red wine with good fruit, but there is a tannic layer that needs to smooth out.

* Beringer Vineyards, which likewise had never made a Merlot, spent a fortune to obtain special grapes from Howell Mountain, on the eastern edge of the Napa Valley. The winery’s 1989 Bancroft Ranch Merlot (to be released in a few weeks) has sandalwood, cinnamon and other spice components adding depth to dense cassis fruit. The wine is potent and exciting, but priced equivalently: $30.

* Even storied Beaulieu Vineyard, founded in 1900, has produced its first Merlot, though it’s made no announcement of it. The 1990 wine will be released in about a year with a special designation.

Among the most sought-after Merlots from year to year are those of Duckhorn Vineyards, located in a warmer area of the upper Napa Valley. The Duckhorn saga had an unpromising beginning in 1978 with fairly concentrated but rather awkward Merlots. Duckhorn’s winemaker, Tom Rinaldi, now admits those early Merlots were odd--too rough and tannic to drink young, but not built to become graceful with aging, either. Duckhorn’s 1989 Napa Valley Merlot ($20) is still bold and thick, but with a grace underneath that should make the wine quite tasty in about three years.

Recently Rinaldi has moved toward grapes from the cooler Carneros region, to gain a racy fruit character and more lean acidity. “We can get that sprightly character from upper Napa Valley vineyards,” said Rinaldi, “but in the hot years, we can’t.” Rinaldi says he is using Carneros fruit for about 20% of the final blend in his Napa Valley wine.

Other Merlot specialists--Rutherford Hill Winery, Matanzas Creek Winery, Shafer Vineyards, Lakespring Winery and Newton Winery--all have had great acceptance of their recent Merlots.

The bad news is price: At least a dozen Merlots are now selling for more than $20 a bottle. In these days of strong demand, if you can find a first-rate Merlot in the $15 to $18 range, it rates as a bargain.

One such bargain is the 1989 Lakespring Merlot ($14). Winemaker Randy Mason uses grapes from the cool Yountmill Vineyard near his southern Napa Valley winery and assembles a blend that focuses on perfect varietal character with cherries and cassis. His 1989 Merlot is concentrated and has high acidity to help it blend with a wide range of foods.

Jerry Luper at Rutherford Hill uses grapes from a warmer region to fashion a wine that’s softer and more approachable than most. His 1989 Merlot ($14.50) is lightly herbal and deeper in fruit than some past vintages, but not as tannic as many of his past wines.

Three additional excellent Merlots in that price range are 1989 Ferrari-Carano Vineyards ($15), 1990 Shafer Vineyards ($18) and 1989 St. Francis Vineyards and Winery ($16).

The former is a graceful yet complex wine with cassis and anise notes; 9% Cabernet and new French oak add to its spiciness. The Shafer has forward cherry fruit with hints of chocolate and cedar. The striking St. Francis Merlot, about as fruity and rich a wine as you’ll ever find without heavy tannins, has marvelous violet-like fruit and jammy elements.

Newton Winery’s 1990 Claret ($11.50) is a more Bordeaux-like blended wine with Merlot charm and softer tannins. More fruit and spice are found in the 1989 Mietz Vineyards Merlot ($13.50), a small-production Sonoma County wine.

I was pleasantly surprised by 1989 Flora Springs Wine Co. “Floreal” Merlot. In the past, Flora Springs Merlot has been good but not exciting. In 1989, however, it’s excellent and a bargain at $12. It has a load of cherries and spice, toasty oak notes and a concentrated fruit taste.

One of the real sleepers in the Merlot category is from Stags’ Leap Winery. Winemaker Robert Brittan’s 1989 version ($17) has a trace of green tea adding complexity to a wonderful cherry fruitiness and a note of chocolate and cedar. For those who like bigger and more voluptuous Merlots, try 1989 Rombauer Merlot ($16), a plummy, almost jammy wine with dense flavors that may develop with a few years in the bottle.

Wine of the Week

1988 Piper-Sonoma Blanc de Noirs ($14)-- Lovers of sparkling wine will adore this bubbly’s faint dough/toast complexity, its perfectly fresh fruit and its crisp finish. Those who have followed the Piper Sonoma brand over the years will be struck by the noticeable style change as winemaker Chris Markell and assistant Rob McNeil move slowly toward a richer, more complete wine. A companion wine, 1988 Brut, is also a major move forward, with excellent fruit and perfect balance. Both wines match handsomely with food.