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No Fantasy: Enchanted Isle Is a Real Bargain : San Diego-based ship sails weekly to the Mexican Riviera for reasonable prices.

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The cruise line’s brochure cover features a grinning blonde in a man’s straw hat and chandelier-style pearl earrings, clutching a trumpet and saying, “Tell reality to take a hike.”

And while the brochure, with its neon colors, send-up photographs and jazzy copy, may be a shade more hip than the ship it advertises, Commodore Cruise Line’s 731-passenger Enchanted Isle is still a pretty good buy, especially for Southern Californians.

Now based year-round in San Diego, the Enchanted Isle sails every Saturday to Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan and Cabo San Lucas at prices as low as $85 a day per person, double occupancy.

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During economy season (Aug. 29-Dec. 12, 1992, and Jan. 2-23, 1993), passengers who don’t need round-trip air fare to San Diego can cruise for only $595 per person, double occupancy, for the week.

These are economy inside cabins, meaning they are small and do not have windows. They do have two lower beds, a private bath with shower and adequate closet space.

Somewhat more comfortable are outside staterooms with windows or portholes and two lower beds for $695 per person per week, double occupancy, during economy season, and $745 during peak season (now through Aug. 22).

To entice more first-time passengers, said regional sales director Marion Tully, Commodore is offering a bonus with each booking in cabins ranked in categories 1 (ultra-deluxe) through 9 (economy inside). Passengers can choose between a free first-class hotel room in San Diego for one night before or after the cruise; free round-trip Amtrak train service to San Diego from Santa Barbara and all points south; free round-trip transfers via SuperShuttle from residences in San Diego County, or one week’s free parking at the San Diego cruise ship terminal.

Kids up to 17 travel for $195 each in overhead bunks in the same cabin with their parents, if the family occupies a cabin in categories 1 through 4 (standard outside stateroom).

While the price is right, passengers should not expect a Princess- or Holland America-style cruise. This 34-year-old American-built ship once sailed as the Veendam for Holland America and most recently as the Bermuda Star.

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But a recent refurbishment has slicked up the cabins and public areas with new carpeting, and, more importantly for ships sailing the Mexican Riviera in summer, massively overhauled the air-conditioning system.

We tested the waters on a two-night cruise to Ensenada when the ship came out of drydock in late June and found the Enchanted Isle to be a very smooth-sailing ship. A steamship with a deep 28-foot draft, it sliced through the sometimes bumpy coastal waters with ease.

Most cabins aboard are relatively spacious. Some have bathtubs as well as showers (so designated in the brochure deck plan), and all have generous closet and drawer space.

Gourmets may not be thrilled with the food, although the only complaints we heard were from members of the media and not from passengers aboard.

Besides the dimly lit dining room, which is located on a lower deck without windows, a self-service buffet breakfast, lunch and tea are served in the Bistro, adjacent to the outdoor pool deck.

On-board entertainment includes a good variety of acts. During the week, two song-and-dance productions, a comedian and a magician are scheduled. Neptune’s Disco, which runs until the wee hours, doubles as a cinema, with 10 screenings a week.

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The Monte Carlo casino has roulette, six blackjack tables, one Caribbean stud poker table and 69 slot machines that take nickels and quarters. While wardrobe on board is generally casual, two nights a week are termed formal--the captain’s welcome aboard party and the farewell party--and men are expected to wear tuxedos, suits or jacket and tie.

A small exercise room with adjacent massage room is on board, as well as a sparse library, game room and duty-free shops.

Optional shore excursions include tours of Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan and Cabo San Lucas, plus golf, horseback riding, sportfishing and snorkeling.

Have your travel agent contact Commodore Cruise Line at (800) 237-5361. The company does not take bookings from individuals.

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