FINALLY SAFE SEAFOOD : Two Southern California aquaculture experiments are revolutionizing the seafood industry. They may change the way you buy fish.

“This is the future,” says John Davis as he points to the Aqua Hedionda Lagoon a few steps from the main coastal road. “All of our seafood will eventually come from aquaculture. . . . The opportunities are unbelievable.”

It certainly doesn’t look like much. Dozens of bored, brown pelicans perch on white plastic jugs that bob on the water. The crude buoys and their supports look like a low-tech extension of the adjacent power plant. The scene is deceptive because the seafood industry’s brightest star is shimmering just beneath the water’s surface.

Once marshland, this seaside lagoon was originally carved out as a water source for the San Diego Gas & Electric Co. For the last 20 years it has also been home to some type of aquaculture operation, or fish farm. None of them worked: All previous efforts were either stymied by stubborn bacterial contamination, hampered by government regulations or eventually ran out of funds. As recently as October, 1989, local health officials shut down the operation because of a concern over contamination.

Then in 1991, Davis purchased the facility and created one of the most exciting--and timely--shellfish ventures in the nation.

Carlsbad Aquafarm Inc.’s ability to take bivalves the size of thumbtacks and grow them, in the course of eight months, into market-size shellfish is not particularly stunning. What is remarkable, however, especially given California’s coastal sewage problem, is the firm’s capacity to purify the live shellfish so that the mussels are virtually free of harmful bacteria.

“The California coast is being polluted by a variety of sources,” Davis says. “Billions of pounds of sewage a day are dumped into the ocean; then there are the chemicals associated with farm or ground run-off and the occasional accidental spills. Even during the dry season we sometimes have beaches closed because of contamination. These periodic infusions of pollution into the coast, or this lagoon, are unpredictable.”

Davis’ solution was to invest tens of thousands of dollars in a state-of-the-art depuration facility. An industrial-quality purification system filters lagoon water to a high degree of purity and then channels it into a series of 10 fiberglass tanks holding as much as 4,000 pounds of mature shellfish. The mussels are left in the constantly flowing water for 48 hours. This purges their intestinal system to the point that no fecal coliform bacteria, an indicator of sewage, can be detected by laboratory analyses.

There are fewer than 10 such depuration facilities in the United States, says Ray Rhodes, an economist with the South Carolina Marine Resources Center in Charleston, S.C., and those that exist are devoted to either oysters or clams.

“Today’s consumer is concerned about the purity of shellfish,” says Davis, a 6-foot 5-inch figure of determination and little humor. “People will look at shellfish in the market or in a restaurant and think to themselves, ‘Will it make me sick?’ Well, our shellfish has a laboratory pedigree (indicating cleanliness), and people will know that if the mussel is from Carlsbad Aquafarm, it’s the safest you can buy today.”

Not one mussel leaves the facility unless a state-certified laboratory signals that the shipment is clean. To date, about 70,000 pounds of the Mediterranean bay mussels ( Gallo provincialis ) have been sold to gourmet markets and restaurants in San Diego, Chicago and New York. (Distribution in Los Angeles and Orange counties is pending.)

A longtime aquaculture observer says that the developments in Carlsbad are a watershed for the industry. Bob Rosenberry, publisher of Aquaculture Digest’s World Shrimp Farming, says that previous depuration attempts were shoddy.

“It seemed to me,” he says, “that they were always on-and-off-again operations. The operators were also difficult to control from a regulatory point of view because they were less than 100% forthcoming on how they ran their plants. They’d start cheating and not keeping the plant going for 48 hours, as required, or not even running the mollusks through the plant at all.”

It’s unlikely that Carlsbad Aquafarm will take such shortcuts. Davis is quick to produce the independent laboratory test results, required by the state, of both the farmed mussels and the purified water.

The actual raising of mussels in Carlsbad is straightforward aquaculture. Eight-foot-long mesh tubes are filled with shells and mussels of all sizes and hung from anchored lines in the lagoon. The empty two-gallon plastic jugs keep the lines floating and off the lagoon bottom.

The normal flow of water provides the plankton the shellfish eat. When most of the mussels in the mesh enclosure reach market size, the tube is removed from the lagoon and brought to a sorting machine that separates the commercial sizes from younger mussels. Those shellfish ready for market are sent to the depuration tanks; the undersized mussels are placed back in a new mesh tube to be taken out to the lagoon for further growth.

Davis, a Del Mar resident and Los Angeles native, hit upon the peculiar brand name of Carlsbad Little Blue Love Mussels after considering the facility’s turbulent past.

“There’s been so much animosity here, and it has left a bad taste in everyone’s mouth. So, I decided we needed something to change the energy,” he says. “And once you see a name like ‘Little Blue Love Mussels’ you don’t forget it easily.”

While Davis is excited about his sales prospects, he is equally enthusiastic about playing a part in maintaining California’s marine environment. “What other business allows you to harvest 200 tons of mussels, or any other shellfish, and not really take anything away from the ocean or create any pollution?” he asks. “These mussels were put in this lagoon by my corporate predecessors and continue to spawn. Nothing was taken away from the ocean in order to do that. We are a statement for clean water. . . . Basically, this company makes me feel worthwhile.”

In this recipe, from Michael Roberts’ “Secret Ingredients,” the flavors of curry and mussel marry, with a touch of garlic acting as a go-between.

CORN PANCAKES WITH MUSSELS AND TOMATO

Corn Pancakes

3 plum tomatoes

48 mussels, scrubbed clean and debearded

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 tablespoon finely minced garlic

1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh dill or 1/4 teaspoon dried

1/2 cup whipping cream

Salt

Prepare Corn Pancakes and keep warm in 200-degree oven.

Using small paring knife, cut off tip and stem of each tomato. Remove seeds and core, leaving only firm, outer pulp. Slit 1 side of tomato and place tomato flat on work surface. Cut into 1/4-inch strips, pile up strips and cut into 1/4-inch pieces.

Combine mussels, wine, curry powder and garlic in 3-quart pot. Cover and bring to boil over high heat. Add dried dill now if using. Uncover, add whipping cream and continue to boil until mussels open, about 5 minutes or more, depending on size of mussels. When mussels are opened, liquid should have reduced to sauce consistency that will nicely coat spoon. Discard any unopened mussels. Add chopped tomatoes. Season to taste with salt.

(If sauce is too thin, remove mussels and let sauce boil another minute or until it thickens.) Add fresh dill. To serve, arrange mussels and pancakes on plate. Spoon sauce over mussels. Makes 4 servings as main course, or 8 to 10 as appetizers.

Each serving contains about:

640 calories; 1,181 mg sodium; 311 mg cholesterol; 32 grams fat; 62 grams carbohydrates; 26 grams protein; 1.54 grams fiber.

Corn Pancakes

2 cups fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels

1/4 cup finely minced onion

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

4 eggs

1 cup buttermilk

Freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup unsalted butter, about

Place corn kernels in food processor and pulse to break up kernels into coarse mixture, about 10 to 15 quick pulses, or chop by hand using large chef’s knife. Transfer to mixing bowl and add onion, cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt. Mix well. Add eggs and buttermilk. Add pepper to taste and mix well.

Melt scant teaspoon butter in large skillet over medium heat without letting it burn. Place large soupspoon of pancake batter into hot skillet and cook until bubbles form in pancake and surface seems to dry. Flip pancake and continue to cook 2 minutes or until golden. Keep warm in 200-degree oven while cooking remaining, adding more butter as needed. Makes 12 to 15 pancakes.

Note: Batter can be made up to 1 day in advance but do not add baking powder more than 1 hour in advance of cooking.

This traditional Hong Kong recipe from Ken Hom’s “Fragrant Harbor Taste” may be the most delicious mussel recipe you’ve ever tasted. It is almost certainly the messiest.

MUSSELS IN BLACK BEAN SAUCE

1 1/2 pounds fresh mussels

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

2 teaspoons finely chopped peeled fresh ginger

2 tablespoons fermented black beans

1 tablespoon bean sauce

1 teaspoon chili bean sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 tablespoons rich chicken stock

3 tablespoons finely chopped green onions

Scrub mussels in cold water and pull off wire-like beards. Soak mussels in large bowl in several changes of cold water. Drain thoroughly just before cooking.

Heat wok or large skillet until hot. Add oil. Add garlic, ginger and fermented black beans and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add bean sauce and chili bean sauce and stir-fry 10 seconds. Add drained mussels and continue to stir-fry 1 minute.

Add rice wine, soy sauce and rich chicken stock. Continue to cook over high heat until shells are completely open, about 2 to 3 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels. Place mussels with sauce in large deep platter. Garnish with chopped green onions. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

In Emilia-Romagna, this dish is also frequently made with tiny clams called “poveracce”--or “poor little ones.” This is from Lynne Rossetto Kasper’s upcoming book on the cuisine of the region, “The Splendid Table.”

SUMMER MUSSELS WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

2 pounds mussels

2 quarts cold water

1/4 cup cornmeal (for ridding mussels of sand)

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons minced onion

1 clove garlic, minced

1 large vine-ripened tomato, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped, or 2/3 cup canned tomatoes with their liquid

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves

1 to 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 small clusters arugula, or small romaine leaves, for garnish

Purge mussels 4 to 8 hours in cold water to cover, by first sprinkling water with about 1/4 cup cornmeal and then refrigerating them. Drain, scrub and debeard.

Heat oil in 5-quart pot over medium heat. Saute onion 5 to 8 minutes, or until golden. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute. Add mussels to pot, cover securely, and steam 3 to 4 minutes, or until shells are open about 1 inch. Steam any mussels that have not opened 1 more minute. If still unopened, discard unopened mussels. Keep liquid simmering while lifting mussels onto platter. Add tomato and basil to pot, and cook few seconds.

Remove sauce from the heat. Stir in 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let mussels and sauce cool to room temperature. Transfer sauce to sealed container. If desired, remove some of top shells from mussels. Add any liquid from plate to sauce. Tightly cover mussels. Refrigerate sauce and mussels separately.

To serve, take sauce out of refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving. About 10 minutes before serving, remove mussels from refrigerator and arrange on individual plates. Adjust seasonings to taste, stirring in remaining tablespoon of balsamic vinegar, if desired. Spoon sauce over mussels. Arrange clusters of greens on each plate and serve. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

120 calories; 239 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.26 gram fiber.

An adaptation of a dish by 72 Market Street’s Leonard Schwartz that comes from “The Ma Cuisine Cooking School Cookbook.”

STEAMED MUSSELS WITH SAFFRON AND TOMATO

1 tablespoon olive oil

30 mussels, cleaned and debearded

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons minced shallots

1 1/2 cups dry white wine

Salt, pepper

Saffron Mayonnaise Sauce

Tomato Concasse

Heat olive oil in large saute pan over medium heat. Place mussels in 1 layer in pan and sprinkle with garlic and shallots. Pour in wine and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over medium-high heat until shells open, about 3 minutes.

Remove mussels with slotted spoon, discarding mussels that haven’t opened. Set aside to cool.

Strain liquid in pan and reserve for use in sauce.

When cool enough to handle, remove mussels from shells, keeping half shells for serving. Place mussels in glass or ceramic bowl, cover and refrigerate minimum of half hour.

Carefully wash remaining shells in cold water. Pat dry and reserve. To serve, arrange reserved shells, open side up on platter. Dip each mussel in Saffron Mayonnaise Sauce and place inside shell. Top with 1/4 teaspoon of Tomato Concasse and serve. Makes 6 appetizer servings.

Each serving contains about:

355 calories; 579 mg sodium; 25 mg cholesterol; 25 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.43 gram fiber.

Tomato Concasse

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon minced onion

1/4 teaspoon minced garlic

1 sprig fresh thyme

1/2 bay leaf

3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

Salt

White pepper

Heat olive oil in small saucepan over low heat. Add onion, garlic, thyme and bay leaf. Cook until onion is tender, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes. Turn heat to medium and cook until liquid from tomatoes has evaporated, about 5 minutes.

Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Transfer to bowl and chill.

Saffron Mayonnaise Sauce

Reserved liquid from mussels

Generous dash saffron threads

1 1/2 cups prepared mayonnaise

Place reserved cooking liquid in 10-inch saute pan. Add saffron and cook over medium-high heat until liquid is reduced by 2/3.

Set aside to cool. When cool, combine with prepared mayonnaise.

An unusual recipe, featuring mussels baked with potatoes and cooked rice. We adapted it from one in the wonderful Italian food magazine, A Tavola.

TORTIERA DI COZZE, RISO E PATATE

Extra-virgin olive oil

3 pounds mussels, washed and debearded

1/4 cup bread crumbs

1/4 cup grated pecorino or Parmigiano-reggiano cheese

4 large baking potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick

Salt, pepper

3 cups half-cooked, drained rice

2 cloves garlic, minced

Sprig Italian parsley, minced

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

1/4 cup dry white wine

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in saute pan over medium-high heat. Add mussels. Cover and steam 3 to 5 minutes, until mussels have opened. Remove mussels, discarding any shells that have not opened. Remove mussel meat from half of shells, pouring any liquid that has collected through cheesecloth or paper filter in strainer to remove sediment. Reserve all mussel liquid, about 1 cup.

Combine bread crumbs and grated cheese and mix well.

Oil large roasting pan or casserole and layer bottom with half of potato slices. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Layer with mussels in their shells, then top with shelled mussels.

Spread with layer of rice. Spread with layer of remaining potatoes. Sprinkle over minced garlic, parsley, bread crumb and cheese mixture, tomatoes and olive oil to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle with liquid from mussels (moistening, but not covering ingredients). Sprinkle with white wine.

Place pan in middle rack of 400-degree oven and bake, covered with foil, about 1 hour. Before serving, uncover and place under broiler 5 minutes to brown top. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

335 calories; 433 mg sodium; 24 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 54 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.72 gram fiber.

In this recipe from Elizabeth Schneider’s “Dining in Grand Style,” lightly cooked leek strips and full-flavored mussels are bound with a pale yellow mayonnaise-like dressing made from reduced cooking juices.

MUSSEL SALAD WITH LEEKS

2 large shallots, minced

3/4 cup dry white wine

About 5 pounds mussels

2 medium leeks (about 1 pound), trimmed, halved lengthwise and well washed

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

2 heads Bibb or butter lettuce, cleaned

Salt, pepper

Lemon juice

1 tomato, peeled, seeded and cut in thin julienne

1/2 cup thin julienne of tender celery stalk

1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon

Combine shallots and white wine in wide non-aluminum pot and bring to boil. Add mussels, cover and cook, shaking pot occasionally, over medium-high heat just until opened, about 2 minutes. Lift out mussels and let cool briefly, then remove from shells, placing mussels in large bowl.

Strain cooking liquor through doubled, dampened cheesecloth, pouring slowly to avoid sand that may lurk in bottom. Pour into skillet or saucepan.

Cut leeks into fine julienne about 2 1/2 inches long (about 4 cups). Add to pan. Bring to full boil, reduce heat and cook on low heat 5 minutes, or until just tender.

With slotted spoon, transfer leeks to bowl with mussels. Add olive oil, saffron and cream to poaching liquid in pan. Boil, stirring, until reduced to 1 cup.

Pour over mussels and leeks, mix and leave to cool. Cover and refrigerate several hours or up to 1 day.

Arrange lettuce leaves on large serving platter. Season mussel mixture lightly with salt (mussels tend to be salty), pepper and lemon juice. Arrange over lettuce leaves. Arrange tomato and celery strips over mussels. Sprinkle with tarragon and serve. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

266 calories; 471 mg sodium; 60 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 1.22 grams fiber.