WEEKEND GETAWAY : Relaxing on Coast a Capitola Idea

When people think about heading up the coast for a weekend getaway, they generally think of Santa Barbara, or the Monterey-Carmel area, or even San Francisco. One secluded coastal community that’s often overlooked, though, is Capitola, a small town on the northern shore of Monterey Bay, near Santa Cruz.

Capitola is one of the oldest seaside resorts on the California coastline. It was already the place to go for San Franciscans by the late 1870s, when a grand hotel on the bluffs served as the center of seaside society.

What makes Capitola so special is that in some respects the little town is very California: the long stretch of beach, the palm trees, the numerous surfers milling around when the waves are up. All these things make it a particular favorite of the college crowd during spring breaks.

But Capitola also conveys a touch of New England: Victorian houses built in the 1880s and 1890s still stand up on the cliff; an old wooden railroad trestle spans the river (actually Soquel Creek), with rustic vacation cottages nestled on both banks. Along the ocean, there are jagged rocks at the ends of the cove, and the cool ocean breezes feel more like winds coming off the Atlantic than the kind generally felt along the Pacific.

Capitola also projects a certain Mediterranean style, primarily because of the rows of turn-of-the-century pastel colored cottages that line the beach on the northern end of the village. Built in 1923, these cottages, called the Venetian Court, are said to be the first condominium project to be built in the state.

(The first row of seaside cottages are still privately owned, but the next two rows up the hill have been incorporated into the Capitola Venetian hotel, a reasonably priced facility with considerable charm.)

The heart of town, for tourists at least, is the village, situated along a one-mile long stretch of beach. Numerous restaurants, curio shops and specialty boutiques line the narrow streets. Mexican food seems to be the specialty of the area, with many of the restaurants featuring open air patios that look out over the beach, or onto the creek.

The wooden railroad trestle is one of the best places to get a good look at the village below. But beware, while it may look charming and antiquated, this railroad track is still very much in operation. Two trains a day rumble across it, so a certain amount of caution is advised.

Down by the creek, couples picnic on the banks or stroll along Riverview Walk, a hiking path that cuts through some of the yards of the waterfront homes. A number of the buildings along the path have historic significance.

If you don’t have the resources to jump in a small plane, the best way to get to Capitola is by car (there is no direct route into the area via Amtrak). It is a rather hefty drive from Orange County--about 357 miles, which means you’re looking at seven hours each way--so you’ll probably want to save this excursion for at least a three-day weekend. Take U.S. 101 north to Salinas, and cut over on State Route 183 to Highway 1. In half an hour or so, there will be signs along the road to direct you toward Capitola. Take Park Avenue and follow that onto Monterey Avenue and into the village.

Beachfront parking is sparse in the village area. It’s often crowded and cars have to be moved from metered spots within two hours. But there is a large, somewhat hidden, metered public lot off of Capitola Avenue, just inland from the trestle. It’s a good place to leave the car because most everything is within relatively easy walking distance.

Capitola has a relaxed atmosphere about it. It’s not quite as commercial as some of the other central California coastal communities that cater to tourists.

And, if sightseeing and some diversions are in your plans, there are all sorts of interesting destinations close by. Just following the road up the coast, along Portola and East Cliff drives, makes for a very interesting drive. A nice place to make a stop is the large pleasure boat harbor, where sailboats can be rented, fishing boats are for hire, and scuba excursions can be outfitted.

The fun zone on the Santa Cruz boardwalk, a few miles along that same route, has a certain 1940s feel and offers oceanfront carnival rides, arcade games and food vendors. Fortunately, unlike so many others of its kind, the Santa Cruz boardwalk hasn’t been allowed to turn seedy and whither away. In fact, the rides have been modernized and the area is very well maintained.

The boardwalk and beachfront areas are also great places to go to do some people-watching. The impact of the 1960s and ‘70s is still very strong in Santa Cruz (flower children, granny dresses and peace signs abound).

After a day at the boardwalk or on the beach, one of the best places in the area to watch the sunset is the old lighthouse, just a little further up the coast. It’s a favorite for visitors and locals alike.

For information on hotels, restaurants, attractions and festivals, call the Capitola Chamber of Commerce at (408) 475-6529.