DEFINITIVE : The Skinny on Lapel Widths and Shapes Is Subject to Change

Thin. Thick. Pointed. Curved. Infinitesimal or elephantine. Lapels on men’s jackets change their shape almost as often as the decade.

In the 1800s, a thin silk lapel instantly conferred man-of-the-world status on the wearer. As the century turned, lapels widened to complement broader shoulder lines in casual blazers and sport coats. Similarly, the double-breasted reefer jacket of the 1930s had wide pointed lapels rolling from the waistline to emphasize a full chest and broad shoulders.

In the ‘50s, lapels were less pointed and narrower than in the ‘40s. The ‘60s saw them slim down until they were nonexistent (remember the Beatle suit?) and the disco ‘70s paraded large, flaring lapels. The hard-lined ‘80s? Power lapels reigned.

Although lapels have expanded or shrunk according to the tastes of the times, one standard remains constant: The lapels of a well-styled suit extend to a fraction less than the halfway mark between collar and shoulder line.

Today, shoulders are more rounded, bringing the lapel widths in, especially on single-breasted jackets.

But styles still include the notched, semi-peaked, peaked and shawl. Natch, the notched is the standard lapel for the Ivy League or sack suit. It is also found in variations of the sport coat and in the American-cut suit.

Peaked lapels with two working buttonholes are often found in European-styled double-breasted suits. (In a finely designed peaked-lapel jacket, there should be no space between collar and lapel.)

The shawl collar is usually reserved for formal attire.

Dressing advice: A long lapel gives the wearer a greater sense of height. A wider lapel emphasizes the chest area (suited for the larger man but undesirable for the shorter man).

Added visible character: All fine suits have at least one working buttonhole for slipping a flower through (pinning the stem to the lapel is outre).

Fabrics? Lapels are made from the same fabric used to make the jacket, with the exception of the tuxedo-style jacket, in which a silk facing adds elegance.