Save the Salad

At family get-togethers, the most neglected item on the table might be the green salad. Compared to everything else that’s usually served with it, a salad just seems, well, boring. Dieting teen-agers are the only ones who seem to take more than a few token leaves--everyone else wants to save room for dessert.

It doesn’t have to be that way. Two of these three salads, for instance, are green but they sure aren’t plain.

Panzanella Salad is an irresistible mix of sun-ripened tomatoes, red onion and basil set on top of garlicky croutons--it’s a salad that’s finger-food. Apples, walnuts, currants, Stilton cheese and curry dressing may seem like a strange combination to toss with salad greens, but the ingredients work well together. So do leafy mixed greens with diced roasted beets and warm goat cheese.

The salads should be tossed as close to serving time as possible, but their components can be prepared ahead. To have the salad routine under control when you’re planning a party, greens can be washed, spun almost dry (they need a little moisture to stay crisp), wrapped in paper towels and stored in a sealed plastic food bag in the refrigerator up to two days ahead. You can bake the croutons a day ahead, keeping them fresh in an airtight tin. If you’re planning a sit-down gathering, chill the salad plates in the refrigerator a few hours before the party. And be sure the pepper mill is filled.

Even dressings can be mixed a day or two ahead and refrigerated. Just remember to let them sit at room temperature before using, so they lose their chill. And always adjust the seasonings that can diminish in the refrigerator.

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Panzanella Salad varies in its form but tomatoes, basil and bread are always key ingredients. I like this version where the juices from the tomatoes and dressing trickle down onto the crisp croutons, making them absolutely delicious. The salad can be mixed at the last minute, allowed to stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes and then served or alternately mixed several hours ahead and refrigerated. It always tastes best if the chill is off the tomatoes before they’re mounded on the croutons. If the tomatoes are mealy, use just the outer shell of the tomato for this salad.

PANZANELLA SALAD

1 1/4 pounds firm-ripe tomatoes (preferably mix of yellow and red), juiced, seeded and cut into 1/3-inch dice

1/2 medium red onion, cut into 1/3-inch dice

1/4 cup julienned basil leaves

Vinaigrette

Garlic Croutons

Whole basil leaves

Combine tomatoes, red onion and julienned basil with Vinaigrette. Let stand 15 minutes before serving; or refrigerate several hours, then allow to come to room temperature before serving. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Arrange Garlic Croutons on serving platter or on 4 chilled shallow soup plates. Use slotted spoon to transfer salad evenly onto Garlic Croutons, mounding salad attractively. Garnish with basil leaves. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

273 calories; 368 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.37 grams fiber.

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Vinaigrette

1 large clove garlic, minced

1/4 cup mild olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Mix garlic and olive oil. Reserve 2 tablespoons garlic oil for Garlic Croutons. Combine remaining garlic oil with balsamic vinegar, red wine vinegar, sugar, salt and season to taste with pepper. Can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Let come to room temperature before using.

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Garlic Croutons

2 tablespoons garlic oil, reserved from Vinaigrette

8 (3-inch wide, 1/3-inch thick) slices French baguette

Warm garlic oil in microwave oven (or on stove top). Brush garlic oil on baguette slices. Place slices in single layer on baking sheet. Bake at 300 degrees until crisp, about 20 minutes. Let cool on rack.

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New, small beets lend a wonderful sweetness and color to this salad, a perfect contrast to the mustard vinaigrette and warm Cornmeal-Coated Goat Cheese. It’s important that the goat cheese be fresh and light-tasting, not at all sour. But the beets can be roasted a day ahead and refrigerated.

LEAFY GREENS WITH ROASTED BEETS AND WARM GOAT CHEESE

4 small beets, scrubbed

1 tablespoon oil

6 cups mixed tender greens, some sweet, some pungent

Cornmeal-Coated Goat Cheese

Mustard Dressing

Brush beets with oil. Place on foil-lined baking pan. Roast at 375 degrees until tender, about 50 minutes, rotating beets several times. Let cool. Peel beets and let come to room temperature before using. Keep greens chilled.

Quarter beets, cut into thin slices and place in mixing bowl. Bake Cornmeal-Coated Goat Cheese in 300-degree oven until warm but not hot, about 10 minutes. Toss greens with 1/2 cup Mustard Dressing, adding more as necessary. Arrange greens on serving platter or 4 chilled salad plates. Toss beets with 3 tablespoons Mustard Dressing. Arrange beets attractively, dividing between salads if making individual servings. Center salad or salads with warm goat cheese. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

512 calories; 615 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 42 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 1.33 grams fiber.

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Mustard Dressing

1 large shallot, minced

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 1/2 tablespoons honey

1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons water

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup mild olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Combine shallot, mustard, honey, cider vinegar, water, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper to taste. Reserve 1 1/2 tablespoons for Cornmeal-Coated Goat Cheese. Can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Let come to room temperature before using. Adjust seasonings to taste.

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Cornmeal-Coated Goat Cheese

2 (3 1/2-ounce) logs soft fresh goat cheese, chilled, cut into 4 equal pieces

1 1/2 tablespoons Mustard Dressing

3 tablespoons yellow cornmeal

Brush surfaces of cheese pieces with Mustard Dressing. Place cornmeal in shallow plate. Gently coat goat cheese with cornmeal. Refrigerate until ready to bake.

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Use small, tart red-skinned apples or Granny Smiths. The apples should be sliced just before serving the salad.

APPLE, WALNUT AND CURRANT SALAD WITH STILTON CHEESE, CURRY DRESSING

1 cup walnut halves, toasted

6 cups mixed greens (watercress leaves, julienned Romaine, mixed baby greens)

1/2 cup currants

1/2 cup Stilton cheese (or Tolibia blue cheese), crumbled

Curry Dressing

2 medium red-skinned tart apples, halved, cored, thinly sliced

Reserve 4 walnuts for garnish. Combine greens, remaining walnuts, currants and cheese in large mixing bowl. Add 3/4 cup Curry Dressing. Toss well. Add more dressing if needed. Adjust seasonings to taste. Divide evenly between 4 chilled serving plates. Arrange apple slices on salads. Drizzle any remaining dressing over apples. Center walnut on each. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

511 calories; 505 mg sodium; 93 mg cholesterol; 42 grams fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 2.87 grams fiber.

Note: To toast walnuts, spread in single layer on baking sheet. Bake in 350-degree oven until nuts turn slightly deeper brown and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Do not burn walnuts.

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Curry Dressing

1 large shallot, minced

2 tablespoons chutney

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

1/3 cup safflower oil

1/4 cup apple juice

2 teaspoons curry powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Blend shallot, chutney, vinegar, oil, apple juice, curry powder, salt and pepper to taste in processor or blender until smooth. Can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Let come to room temperature and stir before using.