THE WINE LIST

Happiness is a wine list that has 1990 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay “Russian River” for $22, 1991 Murphy Goode Fume Blanc at $16, and a total of 19 wines that cost less than $20 each.

Picnic offers this and more: a wine list with such excellent but obscure wines as 1989 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf-du-Pape, $28; 1988 Rubissow-Sargent Merlot, $25; 1990 Qupe Syrah, $18, and 1991 Bonny Doon Clos de Gilroy, $17.

Seven wines are served by the glass, all well chosen; should the list fail a diner, corkage is $10 a bottle--not cheap, but at least not a problem.