A TASTE OF THE SOUTH BAY

A purist setting out to find authentic Japanese food might skip Penny Lane because of its name, but that would be a mistake.

Finding the restaurant isn’t easy either; it’s tucked into a complex whose address is on Manhattan Avenue--but the main entrance is on 9th Street, a few doors off Manhattan Avenue near the pier in Manhattan Beach.

Nevertheless, once you find it, you’ll see it was worth the trouble. Stepping through the traditional Japanese drapes in the doorway, you meet the host, who patiently explains, undoubtedly for the millionth time, that yes, the restaurant is named after the Beatles song (which they play upon request).

Then you have to choose between the sushi bar or the tables. The advantage of a table is that you can order a “special box” (a Japanese way of serving meals with the food elaborately displayed in a compartmentalized lacquered box). Special boxes range in price from $9 to $12, and also include soup and rice on the side.

At lunch they offer teriyaki and tempura meals for $4.75 to $6, including soup, salad and rice. Or you can choose from three box lunches with different combinations of teriyaki, tempura and sashimi.

The miso soup served for the first course has pieces of tofu and isn’t too salty. The box lunches have pickled vegetables, salad and rice. The tempura is crisp and light, and not greasy. Sliced seasonal fruit comes with your check.

Sushi eaters can order from a sushi menu or sushi combinations (seven types of fish for $9.50 or nine types for $12.50). They also serve two sashimi combinations (three types of fish for $9 or five kinds of fish for $15).

Dinner prices vary from $6.50 for a vegetable tempura dinner to $12.50 for the special boxes with sushi or sashimi and a tempura or teriyaki. They also serve Japanese and American beer and wine.

Penny Lane, 820 Manhattan Ave. Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday and from 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sundays. (310) 374-6311.