Border-Food Eclectic for the Blues

It’s clear that Cobalt Cantina, in the Silver Lake space vacated by L.A. Nicola (it’s moving downtown), was conceived by somebody who loves the color blue. There are blue-corn tostadas and blue margaritas. There is cobalt-blue tile on the floor. Many of the walls are blue. The waiters, waitresses, even the maitre d’, wear faded blue jeans. The best dessert: blueberry crumble pie. So far, Blue Nun hasn’t made it onto the wine list.

For all its blue, it would be wrong to dismiss Cobalt Cantina as simply a color-scheme theme restaurant. The staff is friendly, prices are reasonable and, though it may take some menu hopping to find what you like, there are some good things to eat here.

The kitchen’s cooking is border-food eclectic (chorizo-and-potato pizza, stuffed “Tex” skins). The Cal-Mex meatloaf is oddly good, studded with tiny bits of carrot and topped with sauteed mushrooms. Sweet potato-corn tamales aren’t bad. Grilled chicken breast is offered five ways--with chile verde, for instance. For pasta, you pick both the shape and the topping you want, say, wagon wheels with “Cal-Mex” chicken-turkey sausage.

Finally, I must report that there is more blue food: blue-corn cheese enchiladas; blue-corn nachos; a chile relleno, rolled in blue (and yellow) corn before frying; also, two salads and a grilled vegetable sandwich made with Gorgonzola, a blue cheese. The only blue deficiency: No blues on the stereo.

* Cobalt Cantina, 4326 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 953-9991. Entrees $5.95 to $13.95.