Chez Henri Captures the Flavors of France

Following the practice of many small chains, the menu at Chez Henri lists two locations.

The one that locals may wish to visit is at Del Mar Plaza; the other, a less likely destination, is in the Montparnasse quarter of Paris.

Chef and co-owner Henri Knafi operates both establishments but happens to be in Del Mar, at least for the time being. Perhaps because he has little experience of restaurants in this country--and perhaps because he is far from a newcomer to the trade in his own country--he operates a place that captures the true French mood much more successfully than most of his competitors.

As frequently happens in France, the aperitif de la maison is served gratis shortly after guests are seated. At Chez Henri, this happens to be a kir royale , an upgrade of ordinary kir (white wine and cassis) that sweetens champagne with a bit of raspberry liqueur. A plate of tiny snacks follows shortly thereafter, and if you take your time in ordering, Knafi may well deposit yet another plate of hors d’oeuvres on the table. These are simple but interesting; recent tastes have included slivers of excellent roasted peppers, strips of mortadella-like sausage, and what Knafi calls “egg pate,” basically a baked omelet laced with chopped vegetables.

The restaurant replaces a sushi bar, but the bar itself, evidently too solidly built to be easily removed, now serves as a focus of much activity, including some cooking and all the wine service. (The wine list, by the way, is brief and uninspiring, but there are several decent choices priced below $20.) The effort to make the place look like an authentic bistro is largely successful, and if the tables are a bit close, the situation makes for a lively, animated atmosphere.

The menu veers between bistro fare and more elaborate restaurant cooking, with an emphasis on the former. Knafi seems perhaps most ambitious with seafood, particularly with the poisson au sel , a house specialty of red snapper baked in salt. The result has an unusual smoky flavor. Other choices in the seafood department include sole filets in a creamed saffron sauce, a plush gratin of crab and lobster, and salmon trout, not too common hereabouts, which Knafi naps with a lemon-cilantro butter.

Among opening courses, the soupe de poisson is a bistro classic that Knafi presents in a non-traditional manner, since it is yellow rather than red. The color represents the omission of tomato, not too much missed in this context, since the rich fish soup is vividly flavored and accompanied by the usual condiments of grated Gruyere cheese, crisp toasts and rouille , or mayonnaise flavored with garlic and red pepper. A little more luxurious than most versions, this soupe de poisson includes a garnish of mussels and poached shrimp.

Knafi may in fact have a prejudice against tomatoes (or may dislike them out of season), since they barely appear in the restrained, rather elegant ratatouille that may be ordered cold or hot as an appetizer.

Other choices in this category include a terrine (crusted pate) of duck; a plate of thinly sliced smoked duck breast; mussels in a rich, Normandy-style cream sauce, and, perhaps best of all, a baked casserole of braised Belgian endive and sliced ham. Liberally coated with nutmeg-scented cream sauce and gilded with grated cheese, this is a rich but thoroughly delicious dish that displays the French talent for making something special from the simplest ingredients.

At its most ambitious, the entree list offers duck breast or beef filet with goose liver and subtle Grand Veneur sauce, along with other garnished steaks and a Cornish hen roasted with a heavy sprinkling of herbs. But the bistro classics seem the most appealing choices, from the simple scallop of veal normande (garnished with a mountain of sliced mushrooms and a smooth cream sauce) to the carefully cooked confit de canard , or duck slowly simmered in its own juices and fat. The boeuf bourguignon , often a sloppy stew in this country, is very French in its approach, and notable for the tender meat, relatively thin sauce and the fine flavor of smoked bacon.

Knafi offers several typical desserts and does best with the tarte Tatin, or upside-down caramelized apple tart. The fruit holds its shape but otherwise melts (especially in the mouth), and, as a grand touch, the serving is flamed in apple brandy at the table. This is a tart that makes you sit up and take notice--and possibly contemplate a second slice.

Chez Henri

1555 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar Plaza

Calls: 793-0067

Hours: Lunch weekdays, dinner nightly

Cost: Entrees $12 to $17.50; dinner for two, including a glass of wine each, tax and tip, about $35 to $70.