Armani Bistro’s Simplicity Wasn’t Easy to Come By

Emporio Armani Express executive chef Stefano Colaiacomo’s long suit is deceptive simplicity. The menu at the South Coast Plaza bistro reflects that code of elegant simplicity he shares with the owner, fashion designer Giorgio Armani.

One of the better examples is the fettuccine alla checca, which is made unique with the substitution of mozzarella for the more common Parmesan as a topping.

It and the other 40 items on the menu belie Colaiacomo’s extensive background and training as a Cordon Bleu chef. Indeed, in addition to his chores at Emporio Armani, he presides over the kitchens of the elegant L’Opera in Long Beach and Trattoria Spiga in Costa Mesa.

Colaiacomo began his career as a barman at a restaurant in Rome. He worked his way up from there, eventually graduating from the Cordon Bleu Institute in Rome.

After moving to the United States several years ago, he was asked to help create L’Opera.

L’Opera’s success led to Armani, and the simplicity, he says, is not easy: He developed more than 150 dishes before culling them to the current menu.

FETTUCCINE ALLA CHECCA

1/2 pound fettuccine

1 pound fresh Italian plum or Roma tomatoes

3 tablespoons white wine

2 ounces, then 2 tablespoons, olive oil

5 leaves fresh basil

2 ounces grated mozzarella

1 clove garlic, diced

Salt and pepper to taste

Chopped parsley for garnish

Prepare tomatoes by simmering in boiling water about 30 seconds (until skins split); peel, seed, dice and place aside. Heat the 2 ounces of olive oil in heavy saucepan and saute garlic until golden brown. Add wine, basil and tomatoes and stir until boiling. Reduce heat and continue simmering for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Bring 2 quarts of water to boil in pot and add pasta. Boil 3 to 5 minutes for fresh pasta, 6 to 8 minutes for dried pasta. Drain and place on warm plate. Pour sauce over and sprinkle with grated mozzarella, the remaining olive oil, salt, pepper and parsley. (Serves 2.)

For the record: Jules I. Nagler, longtime maitre d’ for all three Brown Derby locations, points out two errors in last week’s column on the Cobb salad. “The Brown Derby’s owner, Bob Cobb, was never its chef,” he says. “(And) no French dressing was used. The dressing was made in a bowl at the guest’s table from Roquefort cheese, oil and cider vinegar, and then mixed into the salad.”