The Off-White Season

For me, the best parts of a Thanksgiving feast are the vegetables.

Autumn vegetables, generally roots or gourds, cook for a long time, becoming wonderfully sweet. To maximize their textural appeal, roast or bake them with only the smallest amount of water in the pan to prevent burning. When the structure of gourds and root vegetables is broken down, their flesh becomes soft and creamy.

To help organize cooking so the feast gets on the table without a panic, prepare vegetable dishes in advance. You can even peel all root vegetables and trim others a day ahead--it’s a time-consuming and tedious job that can be done in advance.That way the oven will be free later in the day for the traditional turkey or ham.

Thanksgiving morning, assemble and cook vegetable side dishes early in the day--it shouldn’t take long--and then put the turkey in the oven. Simple roasted vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, carrots and celeriac can cook in the pan while the turkey roasts. Basting vegetables with the fat from the roast will add to their flavor.

TURNIP AND APPLE PUREE

3 cups peeled and coarsely diced turnips

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped

1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

Combine turnips, apples, onion, butter, salt and pepper in baking dish. Cover and bake at 350 degrees 35 minutes. Remove from oven. Transfer contents of baking dish to food processor and puree until smooth.

Spoon puree into greased serving dish. May be made several hours in advance to this point. Cover and set aside at cool room temperature. Just before serving, cover and reheat until warmed through in oven or microwave. Makes 6 servings.

SAVORY SAGE AND GARLIC BREAD PUDDING

1 1/2 pounds onions, sliced

1 1/2 pounds celery, trimmed and sliced

1/4 cup minced garlic

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage or 1 1/2 teaspoons crushed dried sage

3/4 pound loaf egg bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

8 whole eggs

6 egg whites

4 cups milk

Combine onions, celery, garlic and sage in 2-quart heavy pan. Cook, covered, over medium heat about 10 minutes. Remove cover. Increase heat to medium-high and continue to cook, stirring, until vegetables are tender-crisp. Remove from heat and scrape into large work bowl. Add bread to onion mixture and mix.

Beat together whole eggs, whites and milk and pour over bread mixture. Let stand 20 minutes.

Transfer mixture to 3-quart greased baking dish. Bake at 350 degrees until puffed and set, about 1 1/4 hours. Cover and keep at cool room temperature. Serve at room temperature. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Since the Thanksgiving feast is loaded with fat, you might as well save a little when it won’t be missed, as with this dish. A somewhat heavy pan with a tight-fitting lid allows you to sweat and eventually caramelize the onions, celery and garlic mixture without using any oil. Have a glass of Champagne while stirring and listen to the sound the pan makes. It gets louder and more frenetic as the vegetables approach their required doneness.

WILD RICE, CELERIAC AND NUT STUFFING

2 pounds celeriac, tops discarded

2 pounds onions, coarsely diced

1 cup cooked wild rice

1/2 cup pine nuts

3/4 cup chopped pecans

1/2 cup pitted and diced dates

1 teaspoon freshly ground black or white pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried

Salt

Peel and discard thick black outer layer of celeriac with paring knife. Cut celeriac into pieces large enough to fit in hopper of food processor. Fit with shredding blade and shred celeriac.

Combine onions and celeriac in heavy pan. Cook, covered, over low heat. When vegetables are tender, cover and increase heat to medium-high. Stir occasionally and cook until all liquid has evaporated and onions begin to turn light-golden color.

Meanwhile, combine rice, pine nuts, pecans and dates in large mixing bowl. Add pepper, thyme and salt to taste. Add onion-celeriac mixture to bowl and mix well. Refrigerate until completely cool before stuffing bird.

Extra stuffing may be baked, covered or uncovered, in greased baking dish at 350 degrees 35 minutes. Makes about 6 cups stuffing.