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The flavors of the African Diaspora are wide-ranging, touching every corner of the globe. This Thanksgiving, we were welcomed into the homes and one restaurant of four Black chefs in Los Angeles, who introduced us to their families and friends and shared the dishes that define celebrations year after year.
Their recipes and traditions are vastly different. Bridgetown Roti chef-owner Rashida Holmes makes a crispy-creamy macaroni pie that pays homage to her Bajan heritage. Lamb biriyani and collard greens sauteed with ginger and garlic are pulled from cookbook author Kiano Moju’s “AfriCali” and honor the culinary history of Kenya and the Swahili Coast. For dessert, John Cleveland shares his family’s holiday cookie, also offered on the menu at his South L.A. restaurant Post & Beam, and culinary artist Nia Lee bakes a carrot cake that celebrates the legacy of LGBTQ+ activist Marsha P. Johnson.
Every chef has their own concept of Thanksgiving and what it means to them, yet all are centered in an approach that feels uplifting to everyone who sits at their tables.
Make any of the recipes below for a soul-warming holiday.
Black chefs across L.A. introduce us to the recipes that define their Thanksgiving holidays, including lamb biriyani, macaroni pie and carrot cake.
Lamb adds holiday flair to a Swahili-style biriyani that’s layered over fragrant saffron rice.
Simple sauteed collard greens gain depth with the addition of tomatoes, garlic and ginger.
Creamy, crispy and extra cheesy, this macaroni and cheese pie, flavored with curry powder for a zing of sweet spice, is one of the best-selling items at chef Rashida Holmes’ Bridgetown Roti.
Macaroni and cheese recipe pie pulls inspiration from Barbados and gets its golden hue from curry spice (and five cheeses).
A soul diva’s carrot cake is reimagined with a lighter, sweeter touch to honor an LGBTQ+ icon.
At South L.A. California-soul restaurant Post & Beam, the Thanksgiving season begins when they add mincemeat cookies to the menu.
