A Time to Relish

I have become a holiday pickle preacher. While some people are thinking of turkey, I am thinking of the small dishes--the pickles, relishes and preserves--that surround it. Small but mighty, these condiments show how a little can do a lot. They give you a chance to balance the flavor and texture of food and do for a simple meal what the right jewelry does for an understated dress.

A hundred years ago, Americans understood that the niceties of a well-set table included more than salt and pepper. Their tablecloths were almost hidden by small dishes filled with sparkling tastes and textures to entice the appetite. In those days American cellars were generously stacked with quarts of pickles, chow chow and chutney.

We don’t need cellars full of preserves, but they are hospitable gifts from the cook, and a few jars made in advance and kept on hand will do wonders for your table.

RHUBARB-ONION RELISH

2 cups chopped rhubarb

4 medium white onions, chopped

1 cup cider vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 cups light-brown sugar, packed

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Mix together rhubarb, onions, vinegar, salt, brown sugar, cloves, allspice and cinnamon in large, heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to boil and simmer 45 minutes, until relish is quite thick.

Spoon relish into clean jars and cover. Cool then refrigerate. For longer preserving, fill sterilized jars with hot mixture, leaving 1/4-inch head space. Put on lids and tighten. Process in boiling-water canner 15 minutes. Makes 6 cups.

Each tablespoon contains about:

19 calories; 38 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.04 gram fiber.

CORN RELISH

4 cups fresh corn kernels (about 6 ears) or frozen

1 1/2 cups chopped sweet green peppers

5 to 6 stalks celery, chopped

2 medium onions, chopped

1 cup sugar

2 teaspoons dry mustard

2 teaspoons turmeric

2 teaspoons celery seeds

2 1/2 cups distilled white vinegar

1/4 cup water

If using fresh corn, cut kernels from cob with sharp knife. Mix together corn kernels, green peppers, celery, onions, sugar, mustard, turmeric, celery seeds, vinegar and water in large pot and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook 15 minutes. Spoon hot corn relish into clean jars, cover and refrigerate when cool. Will keep 1 month.

For longer preserving, fill sterilized jars with hot mixture, leaving 1/2-inch head space. Put on lids and tighten. Process in boiling-water canner 10 minutes. Makes 6 cups.

Each tablespoon contains about:

17 calories; 3 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.10 gram fiber.

SPICED PINEAPPLE

2 (20-ounce) cans pineapple chunks

1 3/4 cups sugar

1/2 cup cider vinegar

8 whole cloves

1 (5-inch) cinnamon stick, broken into several pieces

Drain liquid from cans of pineapple into heavy-bottomed pot. (There will be more liquid than needed.) Add sugar, vinegar, cloves and cinnamon stick. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer 15 minutes. Add pineapple chunks and simmer 5 more minutes. Lift pineapple chunks out of syrup and fill pint-size jars. Pour in syrup to cover pineapple. Discard extra syrup. Put lids on jars and cool. Refrigerate until needed. Makes about 6 cups.

Each tablespoon contains about:

20 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.07 gram fiber.