Twice Baked, Once Given

Biscotti are cookies for all seasons, but their firm texture, clear flavors and simple looks are especially welcome during the holidays. And they make terrific gifts.

For these cookies, two trips through the oven are decidedly better than one. The dough is first baked in loaf or cake form, then cooled and sliced into cookies that are oven-toasted into crispness.

Because biscotti keep well, they can be made ahead. They keep perfectly for a couple of weeks in airtight storage at room temperature. Freeze them, packaged airtight, for longer keeping. Before serving frozen biscotti, spread them on a baking pan and heat for a few minutes, just until hot through, in a 250-degree oven, then cool on racks.

Biscotti are generally low in fat and not too sweet. Enjoy them with a glass of wine, a cup of strong dark coffee or a pot of tea. They’re at their best dipped into vin santo . They’re also good companions for punch, eggnog or even Champagne, and they’re just right with a dessert of fruit or ice cream.

The following recipes include a decidedly untraditional biscotti studded with dried cranberries; dark chocolate biscotti that pack an unexpected peppery kick; a version of the original almond biscotti, made very firm for determined dunking, and crunchy, airy, lemony toasted poppy seed slices.

These cookies look quite festive, thanks to their freckling of tart-sweet dried cranberries. Dried cherries, blueberries, currants or raisins work well in this recipe too.

CRANBERRY BISCOTTI 3 eggs 1/3 cup sugar 3 tablespoons shortening, melted and cooled 1 teaspoon vanilla 3/4 teaspoon orange or lemon extract 1 2/3 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon ground mace 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup dried cranberries, slightly chopped Milk

Beat eggs until foamy in large bowl of electric mixer set at high speed. Gradually beat in sugar until pale and light. Add cooled shortening, vanilla and orange extract and beat until incorporated.

Sift together flour, baking powder, mace and salt. With beater running at low speed, add flour mixture to egg mixture and blend well. Mix in cranberries (dough will be somewhat soft).

Spoon 1/2 dough onto large greased baking sheet and form into narrow strip, 9 to 10 inches long. Using pastry brush dipped in milk, smooth dough into loaf shape, 2 1/2 inches wide and slightly higher in middle than at sides. Repeat with remaining dough, placing second loaf 3 inches from first.

Bake at 350 degrees until firm and golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool on pan 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees.

Move loaves to cutting surface. With serrated knife, cut slightly on diagonal into slices 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick. Arrange slices flat on ungreased baking sheet or use wire racks. Re-bake biscotti 5 minutes, then turn any that are lightly toasted on underside. Continue to bake 12 to 15 minutes longer, checking and turning slices as necessary, until biscotti are light gold.

Cool on wire rack and store in airtight container. Makes about 36 biscotti.

Each serving contains about:

44 calories; 34 mg sodium; 18 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.04 gram fiber.

Freshly ground pepper enlivens these dark, crisp, pecan-studded chocolate slices. The afterglow of flavor makes them especially good companions for a glass of red wine.

TWICE-BAKED PEPPERY CHOCOLATE SLICES 1 1/4 cups pecan halves or walnuts 1 3/4 cups flour 2/3 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder 1 teaspoon freshly cracked black or white pepper 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 3 eggs 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla Milk

Spread nuts on ungreased baking sheet and toast in 350-degree oven about 8 minutes, stirring several times.

Chop about 2/3 of nuts coarsely. Chop remaining nuts to consistency of coarse meal.

Sift flour, sugar, cocoa powder, pepper, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon into mixing bowl. Stir in all nuts. Make well in center and set aside.

Whisk eggs in another bowl until foamy. Whisk in melted butter and vanilla. Pour egg mixture into center of flour mixture and stir from center with fork, gradually drawing in dry mixture. If dough becomes too stiff to stir, knead in bowl until thoroughly mixed, if necessary adding few drops water.

Divide dough into 3 parts. Shape each into log (it needn’t be smooth) 9 to 10 inches long, placing each on large greased and floured baking sheet. Keep logs at least 2 inches apart. Brush logs lightly with milk, using pastry brush to flatten rolls slightly as they are smoothed.

Bake logs at 350 degrees until firm but not visibly browned, 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes on pan. Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees.

Transfer logs to cutting surface and use serrated knife to saw slightly on bias into slices 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick. Place slices flat on 1 or 2 wire cake racks or ungreased baking sheets.

Re-bake biscotti 10 minutes if on rack, or about 12 minutes if in pans. Biscotti are done when they feel dry to touch. If using pans, turn biscotti over after 6 minutes. Cool on wire racks and store in airtight container. Makes 48 to 60 biscotti.

Each serving contains about:

52 calories; 21 mg sodium; 15 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.10 gram fiber.

This is my version of classic Italian biscotti, often called “dunkers.” That’s because the nut-filled slices are substantial enough to be dipped into coffee or wine with abandon--they won’t fall apart.

CLASSIC NUT BISCOTTI 2 cups whole unblanched (natural) almonds, or 1 cup almonds and 1 cup whole hazelnuts, or 2/3 cup almonds, 2/3 cup hazelnuts and 2/3 cup walnut halves 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground mace 3 eggs plus 1 egg yolk 2 teaspoons almond extract 1 egg white, lightly beaten

Spread almonds on ungreased baking sheet and toast in 350-degree oven until hot and fragrant, about 8 minutes, stirring often. Let cool. Toast hazelnuts and walnuts same way, then rub while hot in kitchen towel to remove outer skin. Cool nuts.

Sift together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and mace. Resift. Place in mixing bowl and make well in center.

Whisk eggs and egg yolk together in another bowl until frothy. Beat in almond extract. Pour into well in flour mixture and stir from center with fork until dry ingredients are incorporated. Stir in nuts. Knead few strokes in bowl until dough is firm.

Spoon 1/2 dough onto large greased and floured baking sheet. Shape into 12-inch-long log, making it slightly higher in center than at sides. Brush surface with beaten egg white. Form second loaf, placing about 3 inches from first.

Bake loaves at 375 degrees until golden and firm to touch, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on pan 10 minutes, then move to wire rack to cool completely, about 1 hour.

Using serrated knife, saw loaves on diagonal into 1/2-inch slices. Place pieces flat on ungreased baking sheets. Bake at 325 degrees until biscuits are deeper gold and dry to touch, 12 to 15 minutes, turning once or twice. Cool on wire racks and store in airtight containers. Makes about 48 biscotti.

Each serving contains about: 82 calories; 48 mg sodium; 19 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

For these airy, crisp lemon biscuits, an egg-y sponge batter is baked twice--once in a pan and again after the cake has been sliced. Full of poppy seeds, these biscotti are terrific with tea . . . or Champagne.

LEMON AND POPPY-SEED SPONGE BISCUITS Powdered sugar 1 cup flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground mace 1/2 cup poppy seeds 5 eggs, separated 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest, packed 1 teaspoon lemon extract

Grease bottom only of 13x9-inch baking pan or 2 (8-inch) square cake pans. Dust with powdered sugar, tapping pan to remove excess.

Sift together flour, baking powder, salt and mace in large mixing bowl. Resift dry ingredients. Stir in poppy seeds.

Beat egg yolks in large bowl of electric mixer at medium-high speed until thick. Reduce speed to low and gradually add lemon juice. Increase speed and beat until mixture is fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat sugar in gradually, scraping down sides of bowl once or twice. Beat in lemon zest and lemon extract. Folding by hand, add dry ingredients, 1/3 at time, folding after each addition just until no streaks of flour can be seen.

Beat egg whites in large mixer bowl slowly until foamy. Beat at high speed until just stiff enough to hold peak but not dry. Slowly add batter while folding until no streaks of white show. Don’t deflate batter by overmixing. Turn into prepared pan, distributing gently without smoothing top. (It will even out during baking.)

Bake at 325 degrees until golden brown, firm to touch in center, and slightly separate from pan sides, 35 to 45 minutes. Invert on wire rack and cool upside down about 1 hour. Reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees.

Loosen sides of cake from pan and turn onto work surface. Sawing with serrated knife, cut in half (lengthwise, if using larger pan), then cut halves crosswise into slices 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick. Place slices flat on 2 large wire cake racks or ungreased baking sheets.

Re-bake slices 20 minutes, then turn slices and continue to bake, about 30 minutes in all, checking often for browning and turning as necessary. If using 2 oven shelves, switch pan positions once or twice. Biscuits are done when golden brown and dry throughout.

Cool biscuits on racks and store in airtight container. Makes 48 to 60 biscotti.

Each serving contains about: 40 calories; 35 mg sodium; 22 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.1 gram fiber.