A Break From the Little Nasties

My father used to call the food served at cocktail parties “little nasties.” That was in the ‘50s, when cheese was piped onto crackers and liver pate was glazed with rubbery aspic.

Yesterday’s little nasties have been replaced by today’s: smoked salmon mousse piped onto this or that, endless pates (only without the aspic glaze), cheeses baked in pastry, new potatoes spilling sour cream and caviar. Like their ancestors, these little delights are invariably rich.

But a diet of rich nibbles always makes me long for something real. I start to crave home cooking. Especially low-calorie home-cooking.

In anticipation of this mid-season desire, I have begun cooking ahead. Although I’ve always clung to the idea that food has to be fresh to be good, there are foods that freeze well. Made with great ingredients, they keep their quality when reheated. In some cases, they even improve.

This year, while I still have the energy, I am cooking the homey, fortifying dishes that I know I will want during the wonderful and difficult days ahead: a pot roast scented with ancho chiles, a hearty bean soup, steamed fennel, a pasta dish, even a lovely cake for tea or a light sweet after dinner. Although you would never know it from their rich and satisfying flavors, all are low in calories and fat.

This cardamom-scented cake is perfect with a cup of tea or coffee following an afternoon of shopping. It may be eaten as is or--for a splurge--with 2 tablespoons of whipped cream (50 calories); or it can be sliced, toasted and spread with 1 teaspoon of butter (40 calories) or apricot jam (18 calories).

APRICOT-CARDAMOM TEA CAKE 1/4 cup honey 1/4 cup unsalted butter 2 cups flour 1/4 cup light-brown sugar, packed 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cardamom Dash salt 1/4 pound dried apricots 1 1/4 cups buttermilk, at room temperature 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 tablespoon grated orange zest 1 tablespoon powdered sugar

Combine honey and all but 1 teaspoon unsalted butter in small saucepan. Set over low heat, stirring occasionally until melted and thinned. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Grease 10-inch round cake pan with reserved 1 teaspoon butter.

Combine flour, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, cardamom and salt in medium bowl and mix well.

Place 2 tablespoons flour mixture and dried apricots in food processor. Turn processor quickly on and off, until apricots are finely chopped. Stir into remaining flour mixture.

Mix buttermilk, vinegar and orange zest into melted butter and honey. Add to dry ingredients and stir until combined. Spoon batter into prepared cake pan and smooth top.

Bake at 350 degrees until knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Cool on rack 10 minutes, then invert cake onto rack and let cool completely.

Freeze cake whole or in individual pieces wrapped in foil. To thaw, leave at room temperature 30 to 45 minutes or warm in 350-degree oven 10 to 15 minutes. Before serving, sift 1/4 teaspoon powdered sugar over each slice or 1 tablespoon over whole cake.

Makes 10 servings, at 222 calories per serving.

As comforting as a traditional pot roast, this unusual variation has a subtly pungent flavor. The extraordinary sauce, inspired by Diana Kennedy’s carne claveatada, is made of dried ancho chiles, spices and herbs. Serve with rice, noodles or boiled potatoes. This hearty, spicy dish calls for the direct, meaty flavors of a red Zinfandel or a dark, rich Cotes du Rhone Villages.

BEEF POT ROAST WITH ANCHO CHILES AND SWEET SPICES

6 large ancho chiles, membranes and seeds removed, sliced lengthwise into 1-inch-wide strips Boiling water 8 cloves garlic 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 10 black peppercorns 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano 2 1/2 cups water 2 slices bacon, sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces 4 pounds rump roast, trimmed of fat 1/2 cup dried currants

Toast chile strips in large, heavy skillet over moderate heat, turning occasionally to prevent burning, until they begin to darken and smell pungent, about 3 minutes. Transfer to medium bowl and add boiling water to cover. Let soak 20 minutes.

Combine garlic, wine vinegar, salt, cinnamon, peppercorns, thyme, marjoram, oregano and water in blender or food processor. Drain chiles and add to mixture. Process at high speed until smooth, about 1 minute.

Place bacon in large heat-proof casserole over medium-low heat. Cover and cook until bacon begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add beef and cook, uncovered, until browned, 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Remove beef to platter.

Strain off and discard bacon fat. Return bacon to pan. Pour chile mixture into casserole and simmer, stirring constantly, 5 minutes. Return beef to casserole and spoon chile sauce over top. Cover casserole with double thickness of foil and replace lid to seal tightly.

Bake at 325 degrees 1 1/2 hours. Turn meat over. Baste with sauce and stir in currants. Replace foil and lid and bake until meat is very tender when pierced with fork, about 1 1/2 hours longer.

Let cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours. Remove meat from sauce. With thin, sharp knife, cut meat into 10 (1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick) slices. Pour sauce into measuring cup. There will be about 2 1/2 cups. (Add little water if sauce is too thick or cook over moderate heat to reduce if sauce is too thin.)

Wrap each slice of meat and 1/4 cup sauce in individual packets of foil and freeze. To reheat, place in 350-degree oven 30 minutes. Or remove meat and sauce from foil and cook over low heat in covered skillet about 10 minutes. Or reheat in microwave oven. (Pot roast will also keep refrigerated up to 5 days.)

Makes 10 servings, at 266 calories per serving.

The classic combination of white beans, garlic and sage is embellished with sweet yellow peppers, tomatoes and just a small amount of cream to make a rich, elegant soup. It also makes a sublime sauce for pasta.

YELLOW PEPPER AND WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH SAGE 2 cups Navy or Great Northern white beans, sorted and cleaned 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons olive oil 3 sweet yellow peppers, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice 1 medium onion, chopped 4 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped 1 (35-ounce) can Italian peeled tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped, liquid reserved 1 1/2 cups chicken stock or canned broth 8 fresh sage leaves or 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon dried 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons whipping cream 1 teaspoon balsamic or red wine vinegar Freshly ground pepper

Soak beans overnight in enough water to cover. Drain beans. Add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until beans are tender but not mushy, about 1 hour. Drain beans. (Or use quick-soak method by placing beans in medium pan with enough cold water to cover. Bring to boil. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand 1 hour. Drain beans.)

Combine olive oil, sweet yellow peppers, onion and garlic in large, heavy pan or flame-proof casserole. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until vegetables are tender but not brown, about 15 minutes. Add tomatoes and their liquid, stock, sage, salt, sugar and cooked beans. Simmer until soup begins to thicken and beans are soft, 30 to 45 minutes. Stir in cream and vinegar. Season to taste with pepper.

Let soup cool to room temperature before freezing. Freeze in heat-proof or microwave-proof plastic containers. To reheat, uncover container and place in pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally, until hot, or heat in microwave oven, stirring frequently. Ladle 1 cup per serving into soup bowls and serve hot. Makes 8 servings, at 281 calories per serving.

This incredibly simple recipe yields tender vegetables with a concentrated flavor. Keep the steamed vegetables on hand for the bases of other healthy, delicious meals.

FENNEL, LEEKS AND GARLIC WITH PASTA 1 teaspoon olive oil 1 teaspoon water Oven-Steamed Fennel, Leeks and Garlic, at room temperature 1 cup hot cooked pasta, such as penne 1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Place olive oil and water in medium skillet over moderate heat. Add steamed vegetables. Cover and cook until heated through, about 5 minutes. Add pasta and toss to mix. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese on top. Makes 1 serving, at 424 calories per serving.

Oven-Steamed Fennel, Leeks and Garlic 3 large fennel bulbs, stalks trimmed to within 2 inches of bulb 24 cloves garlic 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper 12 medium leeks, washed and trimmed, leaving 2 inches of green stalk

Slice fennel bulbs lengthwise through stalk into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Place 26x14-inch sheet of heavy-duty foil on work surface. Arrange fennel and 12 cloves garlic on half of foil. Brush with 1 tablespoon olive oil and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Fold empty half of foil over fennel and crimp edges to form tight seal. Place package on baking sheet.

Slice leeks lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick strips, following procedure used for fennel. Place leeks and remaining 12 cloves garlic on 1/2 sheet of foil. Brush with remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Fold foil over, seal and place package on baking sheet with fennel.

Bake at 450 degrees 10 minutes. Turn packages over and bake 15 minutes longer. Remove from oven and let stand, without opening, 5 minutes. Remove vegetables from foil and arrange on platter. Let cool. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve chilled or at room temperature, or reheat in oven and serve warm. (Vegetables will keep up to 5 days in refrigerator.)

Makes 6 servings, at 201 calories per serving.