The Best of ’92 : American Corkers : CABERNET SAUVIGNON

The best American Cabernets I tasted this year were 1989 Leonetti Cellar from Washington ($25) and 1988 Grace Family Vineyard ($60). The former is amazingly fruity and complex, the latter richer and denser.

Close on their heels were 1987 Caymus Vineyards “Special Selection” ($60), 1988 The Terraces ($38), 1987 Simi Winery “Reserve” ($30), 1988 Beringer Vineyards “Private Reserve” ($35) and 1989 S. Anderson Vineyard “Chambers” ($42). All are in short supply, if not sold out.

Other top Cabernets are also in short supply, but diligent searching may uncover a few bottles of 1987 Shafer Vineyards “Hillside Select” ($35, amazingly complex wine with cedar and black cherry flavors playing tag, generous fruit and softer tannins) and 1989 Arrowood Winery ($24, more elegant than most, with depth and a toasty note intertwined with superb cherry fruit).

Other Cabernets that impressed me this year: 1989 Castoro Cellars “Hope Farm” ($9.50); 1989 Frog’s Leap Winery ($17); 1989 Spottswoode Vineyard ($36); 1989 B.R. Cohn ($25); 1989 Gary Farrell Wines “Ladi’s Vineyard” ($18); 1989 Golden Creek Vineyard ($12); 1989 Villa Mt. Eden “Cellar Select” ($9); 1988 Rodney Strong Vineyards “Reserve” ($18); 1988 Chateau St. Jean ($18); 1989 Alexander Valley Vineyards ($13).

Bargain Cabernet of the Year: 1989 Meridian Vineyards ($13). It has “chocolatiness,” berrylike fruit and a softness that belies its aging potential. A most complex and rewarding wine, and a great value, especially since it’s often discounted to about $10.50.

CHARDONNAY

This was a difficult category in which to find a winner because styles vary so greatly. But probably the best I tasted this year was 1990 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “Reserve” ($28), which has wonderful fruit and great acidity so it’ll go well with food.

Among my favorites in a more delicate style were 1990 Silverado Vineyards ($15), 1990 Armida Winery ($11), 1990 J. Fritz Cellars ($9.50), 1990 Chateau De Baun ($11), 1989 Grgich Hills Cellar ($22), 1990 Navarro Vineyards “Premiere” ($15) and 1990 St. Clement Vineyards ($16).

Fans of richer-styled Chardonnays will love 1990 Silverado Vineyards “Reserve” ($23); 1990 Au Bon Climat “Reserve” ($25); 1990 Kunde Winery “Reserve” ($18); 1990 Ferrari-Carano Vineyards ($19) and 1990 Cuvaison Winery ($16).

Bargain Chardonnay of the Year: 1990 Buena Vista Winery “Carneros” ($10). Jill Davis’ style has evolved from an artificial butter component to classy fruit, spice and richness. This wine may be found discounted to the $8 range.

PINOT NOIR

I love Pinot Noir from Williams & Selyem Winery, especially the bottling designated Rochioli Vineyard (sold out at $40 a bottle). Most of these are unavailable, so look for the Pinot Noirs of Gary Farrell Winery, whose 1990 “Allen Vineyard” ($28) is as good as it gets.

I was also enthralled with the 1990 J. Stonestreet Winery ($30), 1990 Fiddlehead Cellars ($25) and 1990 Robert Mondavi Winery “Reserve” ($27.50)--all pretty expensive but worth a try.

Some of the better Pinot Noir values include 1990 Sanford Winery ($15), 1990 Greenwood Ridge Vineyard ($15), 1989 Chimere ($15), 1989 Wild Horse Winery ($16), 1990 Saintsbury ($15) and 1990 Davis Bynum Winery ($13).

Bargain Pinot Noirs of the Year: 1991 Olivet Lane ($9) and 1990 Dehlinger Winery “Sonoma Selection” ($9.50). Both were made by talented Merry Edwards, mostly from fruit grown in the Russian River Valley. The former is lighter and fruitier; the latter, made at the defunct Laurier Winery, was bought in bulk after Laurier’s bankruptcy, blended and aged at Dehlinger. Both are superb wines and occasionally even discounted.

ZINFANDEL

The 1990 vintage was kind to Zinfandel. There was a flood of great ones, and it may be that no more classic Zinfandel exists than the 1990 Ridge Vineyards “Geyserville” ($16)--though 1990 Ridge Vineyards “Lytton Springs” ($15) rivals it in richness and spice. Both are difficult to find, as is 1990 Nalle Winery ($14), which is loaded with berry-ish, spicy fruit.

Other 1990 Zinfandels that I loved included those from Quivira Vineyards ($13.75), Dry Creek Vineyards ($11), Gary Farrell Wines ($14), Limerick Lane Cellars ($9), Franciscan Vineyards ($10) and Seghesio Winery ($7.50); good 1989s included Peachy Canyon ($10) and Fetzer Vineyards “Barrel Select” ($9).

Bargain Zinfandel of the Year: 1990 Chateau Souverain ($7.50). Winemaker Tom Peterson has crafted a spicy raspberry and black cherry wine with appealing ripeness and complexity that works well with pasta.

SAUVIGNON BLANC

I prefer Sauvignon Blanc to Chardonnay because it offers better texture with foods, but it’s difficult to get excited about the variety when so few of the wines have much varietal character. Wineries are making a less distinct style of Sauvignon Blanc, convinced the consumer won’t like the faint herbal aroma that is the essence of the variety.

Top wines included 1991 Kenwood Vineyards ($9.50), 1990 Dry Creek Vineyards (Fume Blanc) ($9.25), 1990 Adler Fels (Fume Blanc) ($8.50), 1991 Lakespring Winery ($8.50), 1990 J. Rochioli Vineyards “Reserve” ($16.50) and 1991 Ferrari-Carano ($11). A fascinating wine is 1990 Kunde Winery Sauvignon Blanc ($10), quite complex.

Bargain Sauvignon Blanc of the Year: 1991 Geyser Peak Winery ($7). Daryl Groom left a trace of residual sugar in this snappy offering, which has a scent of green apples, and the result is a delicious aperitif-style wine. Occasionally seen at $5.50.

MERLOT

This was the wine that really caught on with the American consumer this year. Sales rocketed up after the “60 Minutes” report on CBS television showed a link between moderate red wine consumption and a lowered risk of heart disease. Supermarket sales of Merlot were up 80% in the 12 months ending Sept. 30, 1992, and up 102% for the 12-week period ending Oct. 18, compared with the same periods a year earlier.

This gave rise to higher prices for the best wines, and at the top was 1989 Beringer Vineyards “Howell Mountain” ($30), a wine unlike any Merlot made in California--it has a huge, deeply complex aroma loaded with red currant, cherry and cedar scents. A wine every red wine lover should try at least once.

Others I loved this year include 1989 St. Francis Vineyards ($16), 1989 Arrowood ($25), 1990 Cafaro Cellars ($23), 1990 Dry Creek (a good buy at $12), 1989 Cuvaison ($22), 1989 Havens Wine Cellars “Reserve” ($20), 1990 Greenwood Ridge ($16), 1990 Chateau Souverain (a great value at $9.85), 1989 Golden Creek ($15) and 1989 Gundlach-Bundschu Winery ($16). One of the best values is 1989 Corbett Canyon ($7, occasionally discounted).

Bargain Merlot of the Year: 1990 Bel Arbors Vineyards ($6.75). This second label of Fetzer is simply delicious, berry-ripe and soft. It’s often discounted to below $5. (This wine was so successful that Fetzer will release a 1991 Merlot under its primary label--and probably at a higher price.)

OTHER WHITES

The Alsatian variety Gewurztraminer matures erratically, but in 1991, which had one of the longest growing seasons in history, most winemakers made great wine. As a result, it’s difficult to pick a best Gewurz. Three amazing 1991s were from Adler Fels ($9), Thomas Fogarty Winery “Ventana Vineyard” ($10) and Firestone Vineyard ($8.50).

The Adler Fels is intensely spiced, the Fogarty more floral. For sheer complexity try the Firestone, which has an astounding Alsatian aroma and a dry, very complex finish.

Other 1991s I liked include wines from Madrona Vineyards ($8.50--grapefruit and lime in a dry but gentle wine); Navarro ($8.50--classic gardenia and muscat scents); Handley Cellars ($8--floral/spicy), Gundlach-Bundschu ($7.50--dramatically spicy and dry) and DeLoach Vineyards ($8--flowery with spiced apple notes).

I am a big fan of Semillon, the “other” white grape variety of Bordeaux. The last few years have seen dramatic growth in sales of this wine as an alternative to Chardonnay because of its complex fig and melon aromas and creamy texture.

All of the following Semillons are well under $10: 1989 Clos du Val; 1990 Chateau Ste. Michelle; 1990 Geyser Peak “SemChard” (a blend of Semillon and Chardonnay); 1991 Hogue Cellars; 1991 Columbia Crest Semillon-Chardonnay. The latter is occasionally priced about $6, a bargain.

Unquestionably the best dessert wine I tasted this year was 1986 Chalk Hill Winery Semillon “Late Harvest,” which at $10 a bottle is one of the bargains of the last decade. This wine has the caramel/cream, honey and hay components of good Sauternes and none of the mustiness you sometimes find in inexpensive Sauternes.

Other great sweet wines include 1989 Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling “Late Harvest” ($11), 1990 Chateau St. Jean Gewurztraminer “Late Harvest” ($15), 1989 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Finale” (Sauternes style), 1990 Quady Winery “Elysium” ($12--an exciting Black Muscat that is great to sip after dinner or pour over vanilla ice cream), 1990 Navarro Riesling “Cluster Select” ($25) and an annual bargain that always impresses guests--Ballatore “Grande Spumante,” a Muscat-based sparkling wine that goes well with many desserts and sells for about $5.