The Trendy Bean

Today, black beans are turning up at the nation’s trendiest restaurants, playing star roles in everything from appetizers to entrees. Black-bean cakes are one of the signature dishes of San Francisco chef Jeremiah Tower. Florida chef Mark Militello serves a colorful black bean and mango salsa at the celebrated Mark’s Place in North Miami.

Of course frijoles negros have been a cornerstone of the Latin American diet for centuries. Virtually every Latin American nation has its own version of rib-sticking black-bean soup. One of the most popular dishes in Cuba is moros (short for Moros y Cristianos ), a dish of black beans and white rice whose name literally means “Moors and Christians.”

Brazil’s Carnaval would be unimaginable without feijoada , a soulful stew of black beans simmered with onions, garlic and every imaginable cut of pork. Like a Yankee clambake or a Southern barbecue, feijoada is both a dish and a social ritual. Elsewhere in the country, Brazilians dote on feijao tropeiro , “cowboy-style beans,” and tutu , a garlicky stew of black beans and bacon thickened with manioc flour.

The bean that so delights ethnic cooks and high-profile chefs alike is a small, jet-black, kidney-shaped bean with a tiny white eye and white interior. It is prized for its striking black color and for its earthy flavor, which reminds some people of mushrooms. Black beans are equally at home in soups, stews and side dishes. And now a new generation of American chefs is seeing fit to use them in sauces, salsas and even salads.

Buy black beans in a store that has a rapid turnover. Beans that have been around too long will be tough, no matter how long you cook them. Avoid beans with tiny holes--they may be infested with insects. Before cooking, spread the beans on a baking sheet and pick through to remove any pebbles or stems.

Dried beans are usually soaked overnight (or for at least four hours) in water to cover prior to cooking. The soaking shortens the cooking time and helps prevent the beans from splitting during cooking. It also helps break down the oligosaccharides, the long carbohydrate molecules that tend to cause gas.

If you’re in a hurry, you can use the quick-soak method. Bring the beans to a boil for two minutes, then let stand for one hour.

Cook black beans at a slow, gentle simmer. Rapid boiling causes them to fall apart. Boil soaked beans 30 to 40 minutes in a partially covered pan or 12 to 15 minutes in a pressure cooker. When properly cooked, the bean should be easy to crush between your thumb and forefinger.

To keep the beans really black, our Cuban housekeeper, Elida Proenza, omits the soaking process and cooks the beans 15 to 20 minutes in a pressure cooker.

One cup dried beans makes 2 to 2 1/2 cups cooked beans, which will comfortably feed four.

One of my favorite ways to serve black beans is in salads. Unlike green salads, bean salads don’t wilt, so they’re great for tailgate picnics. The contrast between the inky darkness of black beans and the snowy white of feta cheese in the recipe below is stunning.

*

In place of feta, you could use crumbled goat cheese or even tofu. If you don’t have fresh mint, use two to three tablespoons dried.

BLACK BEAN SALAD WITH FETA CHEESE AND MINT

2 cups dried black beans

1 small red onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup tightly packed mint leaves, finely chopped

2 ounces drained feta cheese, crumbled

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Mint sprigs for garnish

Wash dried beans and soak in cold water to cover at least 4 hours, preferably 8 hours. Drain and place in pan with enough water to cover by 3 inches. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until beans are tender but not mushy, 30 to 40 minutes. Refresh under cold water and drain.

Combine beans, onion, chopped mint and most of cheese in large bowl. Add olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Let beans marinate 10 minutes and toss again.

Just before serving, adjust salt or lemon juice to taste. Garnish salad with mint sprigs and crumbling of remaining cheese. Makes 6 to 8 servings.