Turnovers With Masa Appeal

Traditional empanadas are filled with a spicy mixture of meat and raisins called picadillo. In less traditional versions, sweet as well as savory fillings may be encased in:

* Standard pie crust pastry;

* Pie crust pastry with cream cheese or whipping cream;

* Pastry made from a combination of flour and cornmeal;

* Masa dough.

Pressed into circles about 5 inches in diameter, the dough is used to form snack or dessert empanadas . Small savory turnovers, accompanied by a salad or served with a bowl of soup, can also make a light meal. Two-inch rounds become bite-size empanaditas , ideal for hors d’oeuvres.

The dough may be patted out by hand or rolled with a rolling pin, but the quickest and easiest method is to use a tortilla press. The presses are made of aluminum or cast iron and are available in various sizes at Latino markets and cookware stores. Those 6 to 7 inches in diameter are generally the most desirable for home use.

You will also need plastic circles cut from lightweight food storage bags to keep the dough from sticking to the metal. These should be slightly larger in diameter than the rounds to be formed. (They may be wiped clean and reused.) Other materials we tried--parchment and plastic wrap--did not work.

Prepare the dough according to recipe directions or buy prepared masa dough, which is dried corn cooked in a solution of lime and water, then finely ground. The dough is often found in the meat case at Latino markets and some Southern California supermarkets. It is necessary to specify “ masa for tortillas.” Masa for tamales contains lard or shortening. Dehydrated masa flour may also be purchased in these stores and made into the dough by the addition of water.

It takes a little experimentation to discover just how much kneading is necessary for masa dough and how warm the dough should be to work best. On our first attempts we tended to under-knead the dough or allow it to become too warm.

Use a couple tablespoons of masa dough to make each empanada . After kneading, form the dough into a small ball.

Position one plastic circle on the bottom plate of the open tortilla press. Place the masa ball on the plastic a little off center and closer to the hinge of the press (Step 1). Cover with a second round of plastic (Step 2) and close the press, pushing the handle down firmly (Step 3).

Reopen the press and peel off the top piece of plastic (Step 4). Using the plastic underneath for support, lift the dough and move to a work surface.

Spoon about a teaspoon of the desired filling onto half of the dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border. A little shredded cheese may be sprinkled over the top (Step 5).

Using the plastic once again for assistance, fold the pastry over the filling (Step 6). Carefully peel the plastic away (Step 7) from the empanada , then seal the edges by pressing firmly with your fingers or the tines of a fork (Step 8).

Should either circle of plastic be difficult to remove or should the pastry begin to break, the dough was either too warm or not kneaded enough. Try placing the pressed masa into the freezer a few minutes to chill. If this doesn’t work, scrape the dough up and knead it again.

Once the plastic is peeled away, the empanadas dry out quickly and begin to crack. Deep-fry them immediately or cover for a limited amount of time with a damp paper towel.

Oil for frying the empanadas should be 1 to 2 inches deep and heated to 375 degrees. Fry the turnovers about 2 minutes (Step 9), turning once. Drain on paper towels. Empanadas may also be arranged on a baking sheet and baked at 400 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes.

Just about any savory food may be used as a filling ingredient, but the final mixture should be well seasoned and not have too much liquid. Making empanadas is an excellent way to use up leftovers.

Savory filling suggestions:

* Cooked chorizo, crumbled queso fresco .

* Chopped cooked meat or poultry, diced green chiles, shredded Cheddar cheese.

* Refried beans, finely chopped chiles, shredded Jack cheese.

* Chopped cooked crab meat or shrimp, hard-cooked eggs, pimientos.

* Chopped chicken livers, mushrooms, chile sauce/mayonnaise.

Sweet filling suggestions:

* Fruit preserves.

* Mashed sweet potatoes, flaked coconut, chopped almonds.

* Cinnamon-flavored applesauce.