DEFINITIVE : A Royal Boot to Fashion

If you only give a hoot about the cowboy boot, think and revise: It is the lady’s ankle boot that reigns as the definitive footgear.

Although boots have pounded the masculine terrain from the early days of the Greek buskin lace-up (Fifth Century BC), the Cavalier bucket boot (circa 1630s) and the Wellington boot (early 1800s), women’s feet have slipped into the boot from time to time throughout history. Women donned boots during the Middle Ages to combat difficult traveling conditions and indoor discomfort.

She got the boot: Utilitarian purposes notwithstanding, boots weren’t de rigueur for the female persuasion until the 19th Century, when young Queen Victoria helped to popularize the lady’s boot (called a bottine or Jemima).

Fashion news in the 1840s, this ankle boot had no heel and no fastenings; elastic gussets hugged the ankle and made for a snug fit. The ankle boot typified the early years and progressively rose to new heights (with the high-button-up version) near the end of the century.

Boot fastenings, heels and toe shapes followed the trends set forth in shoe and slipper styles, although boots were just as popular during this time and were even the preferred mode for outdoor dressing. Silk, satin, velvet, embroidery, brocade, elastic cloth, leather and suede were among the materials used in boot-making, along with buttons or laces up the center or at the sides for fastenings.

World War I brought a decline in boot wear for women, and the lull remained until the 1950s. Remember those great two-tone numbers? Or those bright white go-go boots of the ‘60s? (Thank French designer Andre Courreges for those.)

The platform boots of the ‘70s inspired some of today’s hottest boot designs: Platform ankle boots give the wearer a new perspective from above, and they offer head-spinning variety as they surpass the cowboy boot in cool.

These boots are made for walking: In leather and suede, these heavy styles feature pony hair, animal prints, zippers, buckles, metal link chains, elastic sides, lace-ups, pointed toes and big toes reminiscent of the Big Top. Still, plain black leather is the thing.

Booty: Other prizes include those that lace up to the knee in the style of old military boots, modern-day combat boots, Doc Marten boots, motorcycle boots for those who want an easy ride and the motorcycle clog-boot as a modern strain of two classics.

Bootleg: Thigh-highs still have their place on the night strip, but platform ankle boots carry the day in smart chic metamorphosing from a pin-stripe pantsuit to tights and a motorcycle jacket--without a kick.