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Keeping Soup Simple

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Bennett is food editor of the Chicago Sun-Times and a cookbook author.

When making soup, it’s sometimes hard to stop adding things.

But the key to great soup is to focus on a single ingredient or flavor. Leeks are one of my favorites--just one provides enough sweet-onion taste to define a soup. Combined with potatoes, rich, buttery Stilton cheese and a little thyme, and you’ve got soup in minutes.

In this recipe, I found a way to successfully add the cheese to the soup by blending it quickly so it doesn’t get lumpy. I puree the cooked leeks and potatoes in a food processor. Then, with the machine running, I add the cheese. The heat of the vegetables melts the cheese into the puree, and the machine blade gets rid of any remaining solids.

Broccoli is another great soup vegetable. Its bulk gives a soup body, and its color gives it appeal. I like Broccoli-Green Onion Soup plain, though a little Cheddar cheese can be pureed along with the vegetables for a richer taste.

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LEEK, POTATO AND STILTON SOUP 1 large leek 1 tablespoon butter 2 medium small red potatoes, peeled and cubed 2 to 2 1/2 cups chicken broth 2 ounces Stilton cheese 1/2 cup milk 1/4 teaspoon crushed dried thyme Dash hot pepper sauce Salt Freshly ground white pepper 1 tablespoon minced green onion

Trim off root end and green stalk of leek and discard. Cut remaining white part in half vertically. Rinse under cold water and drain well. Cut leek into 1/2-inch slices.

Melt butter in medium-sized pan. Add leek slices and saute over medium heat until very tender, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes and 2 cups chicken broth. Cover and simmer until potatoes are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Using slotted spoon, remove leeks and potatoes and place in food processor bowl. Add about 1/2 cup broth and process until smooth. With food processor running, add cheese and blend in.

Return mixture to pan along with milk, thyme and hot pepper sauce. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Stir well until mixture is smooth. Cook over low heat, adding remaining 1/2 cup broth, if desired, to thin soup. Sprinkle in green onion. Pour soup into bowls and serve immediately. Makes 2 servings.

BROCCOLI-GREEN ONION SOUP 1 tablespoon butter 1 shallot, minced 4 green onions (white and green parts), chopped 2 cups broccoli florets 1 cup chicken broth 1/2 cup milk 1/2 cup whipping cream or milk Dash ground nutmeg Salt Freshly ground white pepper

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Melt butter in medium heavy-bottomed pan. Add shallot and green onions and saute over low heat about 5 minutes. Add broccoli and chicken broth. Cover and simmer until broccoli is very tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool slightly.

Pour mixture into food processor bowl and process until pureed. Return mixture to pan along with milk, cream and nutmeg. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Simmer 5 minutes for flavors to blend. Pour into container and chill 2 to 3 hours. Serve cold. Makes 2 servings.

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