Ten Nominees for Tomorrow’s Top Ski Destination : From Montana to Maine, a Selection of Resorts That Have Skiers Comparing Notes

Where are the Aspens, the Sun Valleys, the Whistlers of tomorrow? After spending two months last year crisscrossing the United States by car and motor home to visit 175 ski resorts, we found what we think are 10 rising stars. Enthusiastic skiers for many years, we saw a lot of compelling ski areas, but the following up-and-comers stood out--they all had made noticeable, large-scale improvements in the last few years, and were enjoying the personal, word-of-mouth approval that fairly wings from skier to skier. Everyone knows about the perennially hard-to-get-into places but--especially this year, with record Western snowfalls putting everyone in the mood for skiing--we predict: These resorts are the ones to watch.

Big Mountain, Mont.

It was a small but telling clue: On our first visit to Big Mountain a couple of years ago, we met more than a dozen people--dog sled mushers, ski instructors, celebrities, ski bums-cum-waitpersons--who had relocated recently from Aspen. And everyone in town vociferously denied, a little too vociferously it seemed to us, that Big Mountain is just like Aspen was 20 years ago.

Tucked between Glacier National Park and Flathead Lake in Montana’s far northwest hard by the Canadian border, Big Mountain is so vast and clean and beautiful it makes the heart ache to look at it. (Big Mountain should not be confused with the also-laudable ski resort of Big Sky far to the south near Yellowstone National Park.)

Folks around Big Mountain said the winter of 1993 started last August when several inches of snow fell. A new fixed-grip quad chair is in place to serve four new beginner runs, the first of a series of improvements and expansions for the resort, along with new trails and new snow-making and grooming. And the fact that celebrities like San Francisco 49ers quarterback Joe Montana and actor Jim Nabors have built million-dollar log houses in newly gentrified Whitefish hasn’t changed the happy condition that Big Mountain has nonexistent lift lines, or gentled the resort’s occasionally rowdy night life.

There are three communities here, within a few miles of one another--the commercial town of Kalispell, which locals describe as “the place with the airport, the mall and the K Mart”; the arts and crafts town of Bigfork, with its Tirolean chalets and organic vegetarian restaurants, and the residential town of Whitefish, which in winter helps feed and lodge skiers at Big Mountain.

The place to be seen: At breakfast in the funky Buffalo Cafe in downtown Whitefish, where comestibles such as Big Sky Pie (stacks of ham, potatoes, cheese and eggs) and Buffalo Chips (home fried potatoes) are on the menu.

Some places to stay: Kandahar Lodge at the slopes (from $115 a night for two) or the Grouse Mountain Lodge in Whitefish (from $75 double) with its own cross-country course for day and night skiing.

Amtrak serves Big Mountain from Seattle and Portland as well as Chicago and Minneapolis. Delta and Horizon serve the Kalispell Airport 16 miles away. For lodging reservations and snow reports call (800) 858-5439.

Crystal Mtn., Wash.

Next to Mt. Rainier National Park is a secret that Washingtonians would rather keep to themselves: big, beautiful Crystal Mountain, only slightly less accessible from Seattle than the smaller Snoqualmie Pass resorts along Interstate 90. Although overcast days shroud Mt. Rainier’s spectacular snow-covered slopes with fog, on a clear day the 14,410-foot mountain seems like Shangri-La.

With one quad, four triples and 18 double chairs, Crystal is spread over a huge 2,000-acre area with terrain suited primarily for intermediate and expert skiers, plus a lot of lift-accessible backcountry skiing.

New this season: reduced ticket prices (only $12 for all ages) on Mondays and Tuesdays, new snow-making and grooming, and an enlarged area for the ski school.

Child care is available daily at the slopes for ages 2 through 7; younger children 8 weeks to 2 years are accepted only on midweek non-holiday periods. A package for children 4 to 6 includes a ski lesson and child care for $32.

For lodging and meals, there are three hotels at the slopes ($40-$90 double) and two condo complexes (from $110 for two), plus the popular Saloon, the Crystal Inn and Alpine Inn restaurants and Snorting Elk Deli. RVers will find 42 sites with hookups within walking distance of the slopes.

Crystal Mountain is 76 miles southeast of Seattle, off Washington 410. The drive is often lovely, but can be foggy at times. For lodging, (509) 996-2148; snow reports, (800) 374-1693.

Grand Targhee, Wyo.

Ambitious skiers cavalier about road maps think Grand Targhee is only a stone’s throw from Jackson Hole, the nearest airport, but getting there requires going over two mountains and in and out of Idaho, a 42-mile route that takes more than an hour. And the ultimate compliment is, it’s worth the drive.

Not as big as most of the rising stars, Grand Targhee makes up in powder what it lacks in size and scope. Locals like to say their snow “comes from the sky, not from a hose.” One of its two mountains gives powder hounds a day of skiing via Sno-Cat to back-country, hip-deep powder for $135, including lunch and snacks, or a half-day powder lesson for $105.

Cross-country and telemark skiers can strike out on groomed tracks or trackless powder, withguided telemark tours to snow bowls for around $100 a day.

Seven-night packages with six days of skiing range from $431 to $541 per person, double occupancy, depending on the season, for a budget room in Targhee Lodge with two queen-sized beds. RVs will find electric hookups for $25 per night.

For meals, Skadi’s offers fresh salmon nightly for $19.95; families on a budget can hit the new Cactus Cafe for lasagna, meat loaf and such, $4-$9, including salad bar.

The resort is outside the tiny community of Alta, Wyo., reached via Idaho 33 to Driggs (and no other way) and then in by dead-end road. An airport shuttle ($20) can be arranged 72 hours in advance by calling (800) TARGHEE.

While skeptics can sample it on a one-day ski bus run from Jackson Hole, this resort deserves a longer stay. For additional sightseeing, the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone and Jackson’s National Elk Refuge are all in the area. For lodging information or snow reports, (800) 827-4433.

Schweitzer Mtn., Ida.

Up in Idaho’s panhandle north of Coeur d’Alene, a 10-year, $100-million expansion is gradually turning little-known Schweitzer Mountain Resort into a year-round destination. Schweitzer is perched on the side of a mountain, 11 miles up U.S. 95 from the lakeside village of Sandpoint. It is Idaho’s second-largest ski area with 2,350 skiable acres. (The largest is Bogus Basin, near Boise, with 2,600 acres; the more famous Sun Valley ranks third). Schweitzer has plenty of powder bowls, including some for intermediates, but also offers snow-boarding, night skiing, cross-country skiing and sleigh rides.

For budget skiers there’s the 36-room Overnighter Lodge (from $50 per night for two). It offers ski-trail access, plus child care at $26 a day per child, or ski-and-play programs from $35 (for children 2 to 5). The elegant 82-room neo-Victorian Green Gables Lodge (from $100 per night for two) opened last season. Its fashionably spare Jean Isabella’s Restaurant serves up Idaho rainbow trout for $10.95 and offers a $4.95 menu for children.

Amtrak stops at Sandpoint; the nearest airport is at Spokane, Wash., 75 miles southwest. For lodging, call (800) 831-8810; snow reports, (208) 263-9562.

Lutsen Mtns., Minn.

The Midwest gets a bad rap from skiers on both coasts because its vertical drops are measured in hundreds rather than thousands of feet. Anyone who learned to ski in the Midwest remembers both the chill and the chair ride, which usually seemed longer than the run back downhill.

But we found some surprises, notably Lutsen, the biggest ski area in mid-America as well as one of the classiest. (For the record, its vertical drop is 800 feet.) New this year for daredevils is a tunnel run that goes under the entrance road. Lutsen has a gondola and four double chairs.

We liked the rustic elegance of Lutsen’s Resort, established in 1885 on the shores of Lake Superior. It’s everything one would imagine--a rambling 100-room red wooden lodge with stuffed birds and animals in the lobby, a rustic, woodsy dining room, and the Polar Bear Lounge for serious sipping. Double rooms cost $80 to $125.

Slope-side lodging ranges from $59 to $115 a night for two in a hotel room, with condos and townhouses going from $79 to $450.

Rosie’s Cafe on the mountain is popular for apres-ski, and children’s programs combining ski and play are $22 a half-day, $34 a day for 4- and 5-year-olds, $18 a half day for children 6-10.

Lutsen is just off Minnesota 61, 90 miles northeast of Duluth. For lodging or snow information, (218) 663-7281.

Jiminy Peak, Mass.

Despite its coy name, Jiminy Peak in eastern Massachusetts is a sophisticated, self-contained resort that is especially appealing for families. Lodging at the slopes ranges from modern hotel and condominium interpretations of New England farmhouses to an all-suites country inn ($95 to $295 per night, double).

First-time skiers with advance reservations may take free lessons on Thursday mornings, lift ticket and rental equipment included. Children’s lift tickets are free midweek with a paying adult.

For families with small children, the day care center opens half an hour before the lifts start boarding and stays open until 6 p.m. Care for children 6 months and older is $3 an hour, $4 if they wear diapers.

New this year are a quad lift that cuts waiting time and a new expert trail with snow-making. The 25 slopes and trails are served by a quad, a triple chair and three doubles.

Non-skiers might want to drive 12 miles north into Williamstown to visit the Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute with its paintings by French Impressionists, as well as Americans Winslow Homer and John Singer Sargent.

Jiminy Peak is just off U.S. 7, about 10 miles north of Pittsfield. Call (800) 882-8859 for lodging information; snow report, (413) 738-PEAK.

Snowshoe Mtn., W. Va.

West Virginia has turned out to be a real sleeper, with five fine ski resorts tucked away in the rugged Appalachians.

Unfortunately, most of them are difficult to get to, including Snowshoe, which we found the most attractive of the lot.

Although families fare well here, Snowshoe also draws singles and couples who want a romantic escape. For the latter, a suite in the Whistlepunk Inn with sitting room, Jacuzzi and private balcony goes for $130 a night on weekends, and the romantic Red Fox Restaurant, in the hotel, serves innovative European cuisine.

Its 1,500-foot vertical drop compares favorably with Southern California ski areas like Mountain High and Snow Summit, and the season last year ran from Nov. 9 through April 12 with all 33 trails skiable.

A weekend package of three days’ skiing and lodging costs $431 for two in Spruce Lodge, $494 for two in Whistlepunk including breakfasts and whirlpool spa.

Four singles can share a four-bunk room at Spruce Lodge for $151 each on a weekend package.

Try Yodeler’s Pub for apres ski, The Skidder for burgers and salads.

Snowshoe is off U.S. 219 on West Virginia 66, 140 miles east of Charleston, W. Va.

For lodging, (304) 572-5252; snow reports, (304) 572-4636.

Stratton Mountain, Vt.

Not all New England ski resorts are set in quaint villages filled with century-old country inns with crackling fireplaces.

Stratton Mountain in southern Vermont runs to glass-walled lodges with sun decks and the sleek and chic full-service Stratton Mountain Inn and slope-side condos ($89-$300 per night). The ultra-modern Starship XII gondola whisks skiers to the summit in eight minutes.

Traditionalists will still find a European-style inn within walking distance of the slopes: The Birkenhaus ($34 to $71.50 per person, double occupancy), with warm ambience and excellent food (dinner entrees, $16.95-$21.95). Apres ski, the lederhosen-clad Stratton Mountain Boys let loose with some down-home oom-pah-pah.

Grooming is great on the slopes, making intermediates and advanced beginners look sharp. Stratton, which claims to be the birthplace of snow-boarding, bills itself as “snow-boarding capital of the East.”

Children 12 and under stay free in the same room with parents and those under 6 ski free as well. Care for children ages 5 weeks to 6 years costs $45 a day.

Stratton Mountain is about 5 miles south of Bondville on Vermont 30 between Interstate 91 and U.S. 7.

For lodging, (800) 843-6867; snow report, (802) 297-4211.

Sugarloaf/USA, Me.

While Sunday River ski area about 50 miles south may be bigger and better known, Sugarloaf/USA is gaining fast, partly because it has more annual snow and a greater vertical drop, and partly because skiers go away impressed with the friendliness and service.

With a gondola, three quad chairs, a triple and eight doubles, Sugarloaf moves a lot of skiers around its 40 miles of trails. The terrain is fairly evenly divided between novice, intermediate and expert skiing skills. Snow-boarding is permitted.

For children 6 weeks to 6 years, day care (and some evening care) is available. An all-day program with skiing costs $42. Mountain adventures for juniors 7-12 ($55) and teens 13-16 ($70) include lessons and equipment.

Sunday-through-Thursday ski week packages start at $375 per person, double occupancy, with health club privileges.

For cross-country skiers, there’s the nearby Carrabassett Valley Ski Touring Center. You can rent skates and take lessons at the ice rink or go for dog sled rides.

Ski-in, ski-out Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel, a huge red brick chateau, lets kids 12 and under stay free in the same room with their parents. A one-bedroom suite with wet bar, refrigerator and microwave, plus sleep sofa and Murphy bed in the living room starts at $160 a night; a double room, $110.

Snow Peas restaurant in the hotel has a Szechwan chef whose midweek specials start at $7.95. Geppetto’s is a favorite Italian spot, also at the base. In nearby Kingfield, One Stanley Avenue serves innovative Maine cuisine in the Queen Anne/Victorian house once owned by the manufacturer of Stanley Steamer automobiles.

Skiers with self-contained RVs may park in a special lot on the mountain access road for $5 a night, but there are no hookups.

Sugarloaf/USA is near the Canadian border, 16 miles northwest of Kingfield off Maine 16 and 27; shuttle buses from the Portland Airport can be arranged. For reservations, (800) 843-5623; snow report, (207) 237-2000.

Waterville Valley, N.H.

The secluded New England ski village of Waterville Valley in the White Mountain National Forest is really two towns in one, the traditional village of Waterville Valley and the newer Waterville Valley Village, a self-contained year-round resort a mile away.

Especially good for families with teen-agers, Waterville Valley has a teen lift ticket for $28 weekdays and $34 weekends. (The adult weekday price is $39.) Hangouts like the video arcade and the Alpine Pizza and Ice Cream Parlor are sheltered inside the resort area so young people can come and go.

A five-day Sunday-through-Thursday package (not good on holidays) provides a welcome party, two group lessons a day, lifts and lodging from $452 per person, double occupancy, or from $542 per person, double occupancy, in an all-suites hotel with full kitchen. And for each paying adult, one child 12 or under can stay free in the same room with the parents and ski free or attend day care free.

There are 50 miles of groomed cross-country track, a rink for ice skating and hockey, bonfires and sleigh rides.

Waterville Valley is 11 miles from Interstate 93 off Exit 28. For lodging, (800) 468-2553; snow report, (603) 236-4144.

Across the U.S., 10 Up-and-Coming Resorts 1. Crystal Mtn., Washington 2. Schweitzer Mountain, Idaho 3. Big Mountain, Montana 4. Grand Targhee, Wyoming 5. Lutsen Mtns., Minnesota 6. Snowshoe, West Virginia 7. Jiminy Peak, Massachusetts 8. Stratton Mountain, Vermont 9. Waterville Valley, New Hampshire 10. Sugarloaf USA, Maine