John Holliday began his gastronomic career near...

John Holliday began his gastronomic career near the bottom, as a dishwasher at the Alondra Club Golf Course, and worked his way up--to chef and owner of Le Petit Cafe in Hermosa Beach.

Opened 17 years ago, the cafe has three dining areas; one has a country French tone, another is a patio partially covered with wooden beams, and the last is a cozy, dimly lighted room of dark red booths framed by wooden trellises that provide a welcome haven of privacy.

Holliday’s menu includes some old favorites, starting with an onion soup au gratin ($3) topped with Parmesan, Swiss and Cheddar cheese. Other starters include snails baked in mushroom caps ($5.95) and oysters Rockefeller ($5.95), oysters and spinach topped with Swiss cheese that is served bubbling hot.

Beef Wellington ($14.50), once royalty among meat dishes but now rarely seen in today’s quest for lighter foods, is one of the cafe’s most popular entrees. A juicy, nearly three-inch-thick filet mignon is topped with liver pate, wrapped in puff pastry, baked, then topped with a Bordelaise sauce. It comes with salad, vegetables and rice or potatoes.

Another old standby is the Trout Veronique ($10.95), a filet stuffed with crab meat, baked, then topped with grapes. Other seafood offerings include scampi ($11.95) and frog legs Provencal ($10.95), both served in a garlic herb butter sauce with shallots, Pernod, oregano, basil, lemon and sherry.

A popular breakfast and lunch menu features omelets and crepes with stuffings such as crab, chicken, vegetables and Dutch apples.

Le Petit Cafe is at 2nd Street and Hermosa Avenue, Hermosa Beach. (310) 379-1400. Open Tuesday through Sunday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tuesday through Friday 6 to 10 p.m., Saturday till 11 p.m.