A Saucy Companion for Pork

Byron Gemmell has long been one of Orange County’s better-known chefs, but his popularity has risen even higher since taking on the task of returning Chanteclair to its former culinary glory.

Gemmell took the menu--described by one Times critic as “a tired affair”--and completely revamped it, tilting it toward a more unpretentious and simpler style of cooking.

The Irvine restaurant’s new lunch fare is a good example. It’s divided into three parts: Dejeuner Leger, which features soups, salads and lighter dishes; Fruits de Mer, made up of five seafood plates, and Cuisine Moderne, which are daily specials featuring various meats.

And one of the more popular items on the menu is what Gemmell calls noisette de porc farcie, a lean pork loin stuffed with Granny Smith apples and served slathered in a sun-dried cherry sauce.

“We use the sun-dried cherries because they’re quite tart,” he said, “and when made with a little sugar, you end up with a unique sweet-sour flavor that really complements the pork.”

(While sun-dried cherries are not carried by the major supermarkets, they can be found at Trader Joe’s for about $3.49 for an 8-ounce package and at specialty stores for considerably more--up to $14.95 for the same size package.)

“This sauce is also good with just about any kind of meat, especially chicken,” he added. “Don’t be afraid to experiment with it.”

Gemmell, a native of Guatemala, says he has been experimenting with food since he was a child. “No one would make things the way I wanted them, so I started cooking for myself.”

When he came to the United States in the early ‘70s, his first job was as a busboy at the Disneyland Hotel, but his eyes were always on the kitchen. The road to Chanteclair was a long one and included stops at L’Ermitage in West Hollywood, where he trained under the late master chef Jean Bertranou, considered the father of modern French cooking in California.

The following recipe is a slightly modified version of the Chanteclair dish. The only difference is that Gemmell uses fresh veal stock.

STUFFED PORK LOIN

2 large Granny Smith apples, cored, peeled and sliced

1/4 cup butter

Juice of 1 lemon

2-pound, center-cut boneless pork loin

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 cups canned beef stock

4 ounces sun-dried cherries

Heat butter and lemon juice over moderate heat in heavy saucepan. Lightly saute apple slices about 2 minutes (they should remain firm). Make a pocket in the loin and stuff with the apples. Rub with salt and pepper and tie with kitchen twine. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for at least 12 hours before roasting. Roast in 400-degree oven until meat thermometer registers 140 degrees (about 30 minutes).

While meat is roasting, heat vinegar and sugars in heavy saucepan until sugar begins to caramelize. Swirl in beef stock and continue cooking until stock has been reduced by half. Add cherries and simmer an additional 10 minutes. With slotted spoon, remove half the cherries and reserve. Puree the mixture in a blender until smooth. (For clear sauce, strain in fine strainer.) Return to saucepan, add reserved cherries, reheat and serve immediately over slices of pork.