Off to Europe : In Provence, a Galaxy of Ceramics : The French village of Dieulefit is home to some stars of the pottery world, working in traditional and avant-garde styles.

Dieulefit means “God made it,” but in this small, Provencal town, there is little evidence of a single deity at work. Rather, there are many inspired artisans at their wheels, creating pottery and ceramic accessories ranging from traditional country stoneware for everyday cooking and dining to striking contemporary ceramics for the serious collector.

Situated in the northern reach of Provence, a region little explored by Americans, Dieulefit is as accessible and appealing as the Luberon, the area in southern Provence popularized by Peter Mayle’s book “A Year in Provence.” Just 15 miles from Montelimar and 45 miles from Avignon (both served by the high-speed TGV From Paris), Dieulefit and the surrounding countryside offer up a feast for the senses. An area diverse in natural colors, textures and scents, this lush land is a haven for the creative spirit, as well as a must-see destination for crafts enthusiasts or the curious traveler.

The tradition of pottery making in the region is as rich as the precious clay that supplied commercial potters in the early 1900s. Today, however, most of the local artisans get their raw materials from producers throughout France. The utilitarian nature of the original rural wares finds a distinct counterpoint in the more decorative items that are currently available in the area’s many ateliers, galleries and commercial stores.

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One of the more prominent names in the region is that of the Mourre family, headed by Roger and Yvette Mourre, first generation potters who have been producing classic earthenware for nearly 48 years. Their impeccable atelier/retail store, Poterie Mourre, on Place Chateauras in Dieulefit, is the first shop on the left as you drive into town from the southeast on route D538. A sign reads “ vente directe, prix de gros “ (wholesale to the public), and the excellent prices are matched only by the fine quality and superb collection of authentic regional pottery.

Viewing the pottery-making process is more like peering over the artisan’s shoulder than witnessing a formal demonstration. The reserved yet cordial Roger Mourre answers questions in French, with communication greatly enhanced through gesture or nod of a head for those who don’t know the language.

He works with only one other potter, and almost any day of the week (except Sunday) visitors can watch the two artists creating handcrafted items that range from small serving bowls (about $5) to large, one-of-a-kind, lamp bases ($250), hand-painted with graceful floral motifs.

Among the more popular items are the classic French olive bowls ($2-$3). Small enough to fit into the palm of a hand, six to eight can easily be nestled into carry-on luggage. These bowls--which have an uneven glaze that gives them a rustic quality--make great gifts, but be sure to keep several for yourself. You’ll want to create an authentic presentation for the many varieties of olives available throughout the area. An outstanding assortment of this revered fruit can be found in Nyons, the “olive capital of Provence,” 17 miles from Dieulefit.

The pottery-making process itself is fairly standard. Most of the items are wheel-thrown, hand-painted or glazed, and fired in a conventional kiln. The finishes and glazes represent the familiar Provencal colors: greens, ochres and lavender-blues. While some of the colored finishes are achieved naturally in the firing, the blue glazes have a special Provencal ingredient. They are made from the cinders of the thick lavender that blankets the countryside.

Roger Mourre crafts every piece of pottery with the unmistakable Provencal look of solid colors hand-painted in country motifs. Butter dishes, dinner plates, platters and covered casserole dishes ($7-$35) come in vibrant colors or in pure white glazes decorated with sprigs of lavender, clusters of grapes, baskets of wildflowers. Other pieces feature delightful, hand-painted scenes of neighboring villages and mountains. They make lovely serving plates for fruits and desserts.

The Mourres no longer sell their wares in the bustling local marketplaces or at the numerous fairs and festivals. Content to run their family business simply, they give personal attention to every sale. Yvette Mourre shares the sales counter with her husband, carefully wrapping each purchase for safe travel. Her watchful eyes inspect each piece as she wraps, making sure that coordinated items are properly matched. Poterie Mourre also carries selected crafts from other local artisans.

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Directly across the street from the senior Mourres, son Alain Mourre operates a more sophisticated store, Terre e Provence. Alain, who learned pottery making from his father, is the entrepreneur of the family. He started his own business about three years ago with one other potter and today works with seven talented craftspeople. His growing operations include the commercial store Terre e Provence on Place Chateauras, a nearby studio and retail outlet, Poterie du Soleil on Route Montelimar, and a distribution network throughout France and abroad, including the United States.

At Terre e Provence, contemporary ceramics overshadow the traditional earthenware. Simple square plates, highly-glossed and richly-colored, come in several sizes. They look striking by themselves on a coffee table or can double as unique dining or serving pieces. Prices range $6-$45.

The pottery of Alain Mourre and others can be found at slightly higher prices in Avignon at Terre de Provence. Mourre’s work has also been sold at Liberty in London and Henri Bendel in New York. (Check individual stores for current availability.) But, while meandering through the Provencal countryside, keep an eye out for workshops on the roads leading in and out of the small towns and villages. You will discover great bargains in these outlying areas.

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Another artisan well worth mentioning, Swiss-born ceramist Barbara Hunzinker, works in Le Poet-Celard (about 8 miles north of Dieulefit). Her art lies in a rich imagination, finding form somewhere between painting and ceramics. She creates basic bowls, platters and vases, but each piece takes on a different character. The clay surface becomes a canvas on which she paints colorful, expressionistic lines, symbols and forms.

Hunzinker relocated to Provence from her homeland 11 years ago to learn pottery making in a traditional Dieulefit atelier. “It was important to go through the formal training in order to find my own style,” says Hunzinker. Today, her contemporary designs are unlike the craft of the early Dieulefit potters, which was utilitarian and rural in theme, with simple glazes.

They are exquisite, a painterly combination of utility and ornament with colors, including a unique version of rose, done in washes with specially mixed glazes that heighten the intensity of the shades. Hunzinker’s current work includes a wide selection of bowls, platters, urns, pots and serving pieces in all sizes. Prices start at $20 for a small, six-inch serving bowl. Larger, more distinctive pieces cost more than $100. Look for these lovely ceramics at Poterie Morgan, in Le Poet-Celard and in Paris at La Tuile a Loup.

If you have the chance to meet Hunzinker in person, the experience can only add to the thrill of owning one of her distinctive ceramic pieces. In English, she is quick to invite visitors to the “farm,” where she has her studio and an unlikely showroom in a cavernous, stone-walled space behind her work area.

When you arrive, you will be greeted warmly by Hunzinker and two enormously friendly dogs. One wonders how some of the more fragile pieces survive amid hanging tongues and wagging tails. If you have a special interest in the fine art of ceramics, contact Hunzinker at her studio (from the United States, telephone 011-33- 75-53-37-59) to arrange a meeting.