Off to Europe : GUIDEBOOK : Brussels, Europe’s New Capital

Getting there: Delta and American Airlines fly direct from Los Angeles to Brussels, stopping in New York on the way. United, Sabena, Lufthansa, KLM, Air France, Swiss Air, British Midland and Virgin all offer connecting flights with one stop. Cheapest restricted tickets for travel by March 31 begin at $498. Cheapest fares start at $818 on tickets bought by March 31 for travel from April to May 31; for travel from June 1 to Sept. 30, fares start at $918.

Getting around: As in so many European capitals, public transportation is better than Californians will be used to. Instead of renting a car--and contending with often-snarled downtown traffic--you can easily rely on reasonably priced subways (called the Metro), trams, buses and trains. An MTB card, available at Tourist Information Offices like the one at the Grand Place, gives its bearer 10 trips within the city by tram, bus, subway or train for about $10. Train fares to Antwerp (29 miles north) and Brugge (60 miles west) are also reasonable.

Where to stay: Be forewarned: Brussels, with all its business travelers, is an expensive place. To seek out lower rates, look for hotels farther from the Grand Place. Some travelers might consider staying in a nearby city like Brugge or Antwerp (which are cheaper, even though they’re popular leisure travel destinations) and making day trips to the capital. Beware of bargain rates near the Grand Place; the lodgings I investigated were dingy, cramped and loud. The prices below include taxes and, in most cases, breakfast:

Jolly Hotel du Grand Sablon (Place du Grand Sablon, 1000 Bruxelles; from the U.S., telephone 011-32-2-512-88-00, or toll-free in the U.S., call 800-448-8355). Prime location, Italian style and a sense of intimate scale, despite its 203 rooms. Rooms for two: $300.

Hotel Amigo (Rue de l’Amigo, 1-3, 1000 Bruxelles; tel. 011-32-2-511-59-10 or 800-448-8355). The name seems goofy, but the location and accommodations are excellent. Rooms for two: $272.

Conrad Brussels (Avenue Louise 71, 1050 Bruxelles; tel. 011-32-2-542-42-42 or 800-445-8667) with 269 rooms is scheduled to open near the Grand Place in April, with introductory double-room rates of about $205, rising to $294 in September.

Hotel President Nord (Blvd. Adolphe Max 107, 1000 Bruxelles; tel. 011-32-2-219-00-60 or 800-448-8355) Another lodging several blocks from the city center, with 63 rooms and a breakfast area (no restaurant). Rooms for two: $156 and up.

I didn’t get a chance to inspect them, but veteran Belgium-visitors have recommended these two less expensive downtown lodgings: Hotel Albert Premier (Place Rogier 20, 1210 Bruxelles; tel. 011-32-2-217-2125; rooms for two $100 and up) and Hotel Ibis (Rue du Marche-aux-Herbes 100; 1000 Bruxelles; tel. 011-32-2-514-40-40 or 800-221-4542; rooms for two about $140).

I stayed at the Hotel Metropole (Place de Brouckere 31B, 1000 Bruxelles; tel. 011-32-2-217-23-00 or 800-448-8355), having seen pictures of its sumptuous lobby and public rooms and its busy sidewalk cafe. It’s the only big Brussels hotel that dates back to the 19th Century, and it’s centrally located. But once I got upstairs, the rooms were unremarkable and service was indifferent; the place seemed generally tired. There have been renovations since my stay last June, but I remain skeptical. Have a look around the lobby, but stay here only if you’re addicted to historic hotels. Rooms for two: $287.

Where to eat: Most anywhere on Rue des Bouchers or Petit Rue des Bouchers. More specifically: Aux Vieux Saint Martin (Place du Grand Sablon 38, 1000 Bruxelles; local tel. 512-64-76); stylish and popular with locals; dinner entrees $16-27. Also, Chez Serge & Anne (23 Rue du Peuplier, 1000 Bruxelles; tel. 218-16-62); off the tourist path; regional cuisine with six course meals from $15 to $50. After dinner, L’Estaminet du Kelderke (14 Grand Place; tel. 512-36-94), a basement bar and jazz club, offers live music most nights.

For more information: Contact the Belgian National Tourist Office, 745 Fifth Ave., Suite 714, New York 10151, (212) 758-8130.