CHEF'S BOWL: For a chef, preparing a meal at New York's Beard House is like a singer playing Carnegie Hall. Ulf Anders Strandberg of Gustaf Anders, in South Coast Plaza Village, gets his chance on June 21. Julia Child founded the program of rotating the great chefs, to honor the late cooking author James Beard, and Beard House invitations are highly prized. . . . Strandberg's choices for New York include: wild rice pancake with smoked salmon, leg of lamb, and princess cake with wild strawberries.