When to Smash, Mash or Whirr

The word puree describes both a process and the product that is created. Almost any fruit, vegetable, grain or legume may be pureed, but depending on the tool used, the thick, liquid form that results will have subtle nuances in texture.

A potato masher produces a coarse-textured puree. The food is simply pounded, a little at a time, until smooth. This utensil works well only on foods without tough fibers, because it doesn’t provide any way to remove the fibers. For small amounts of food, a standard table fork can achieve similar results.

Pressing food through a sieve with a wooden spoon or pestle produces a finer, lighter puree. Just how fine, however, depends on the gauge of the wire mesh. This method works well for soft-textured foods.

Fibrous and firm-textured foods are best pureed with a food mill. Turning the blade gradually forces the food through the perforated plate in the base, leaving any tough fibers behind. The texture of the puree will vary depending on the plate used.

A ricer works in almost the same way, forcing food through small holes as the handles are squeezed together. Another advantage: Both these tools can remove the skin from food without peeling.

Using a food processor is the fastest and easiest method of making a puree, but care must be taken not to overprocess the food, which produces a pulp without texture or character. For consistency, pulse the blade, stopping often to scrape down the sides of the work bowl.

Electric mixers and blenders produce similar results. Like the potato masher, these appliances are incapable of straining out undesirable particles.

The nature of the food frequently dictates which implement to use. A food mill is best for pureeing celery because it separates the fibers from the pulp. A food processor is not recommended for starchy vegetables, such as potatoes, because the rapid blade movement makes them pasty.

Other times, the tool choice is governed simply by personal preference. To make applesauce, puree the cooked apples with either a potato masher or a sieve, but the former produces a chunkier sauce than the latter.

Use the following guide to estimate how much food is needed to make a desired amount of puree:

* One pound of fruit or vegetables with thick skins or pits yields one cup puree. * One pound of most other fruit or vegetables makes about two cups puree. * One pound of beans produces 2 1/2 cups puree.

Wash food, trim away any blemishes and remove pits or seeds. Thin skins needn’t be peeled away; if you don’t want to blend them into the puree, remove them while pureeing by using a food mill or ricer.

Since most fruit and vegetables puree best when warm, cut the raw food into pieces and either boil or steam. Fruit may just be heated through, but vegetables should be cooked until tender. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid.

Usually the drained foods will still contain enough moisture to make a puree, but if more is needed, add the reserved cooking liquid a little at a time until the mixture reaches the desired consistency.

Non-starchy foods--beans, tomatoes--produce thin purees. Starchy foods--carrots, potatoes, peas and parsnips--result in thicker purees.

Potatoes have so much starch and fiber, they always require the addition of either cooking liquid or milk. This thickening power may be used to advantage with vegetables low in starch, such as green beans. A small quantity of potato pureed with the beans gives them body.

Pureed potato can also be used to thicken vegetable soup. Use one cup puree for every two quarts soup.

Vegetable purees make a light side dish by themselves when seasoned with herbs and spices. Both fruit and vegetable purees may be used as the main ingredient in soups, sauces, dips, pates, quick breads and desserts.

Purees can be frozen for up to a year. Spoon the cooled mixture into ice cube trays or one-cup freezer containers. Freeze until solid, then transfer cubes to freezer bags.