THE WINE LIST

The traditional wine to serve with prime rib is Burgundy. And there is a complementary aspect between the flavors of aged prime rib and a great Pinot Noir.

Unfortunately, the wine list at Lawry’s offers few good true Burgundies to match its primary dish. The best Burgundy may be a 1988 Pommard, though the producer (not listed on the wine list), Dupard Aine, isn’t considered a top Pommard maker. Moreover, the price, $75, is a bit steep.

That leaves us with 1990 Cotes de Beaune Villages from Moillard, $26, a tasty but young and far-from-sublime wine. Three older Burgundies are from modest vintages (two from 1987 and one from 1983) and priced at $81, $125, and $255.

Of the five American Pinot Noirs listed, the best are 1989 Domaine Drouhin (from Oregon), $45, and 1990 Robert Mondavi Reserve, $42.

For non-traditionalists, the list has a wide range of other wines. Among the better wines are 1991 Claiborne & Churchill Gewurztraminer, $19; 1991 Ferrari Carano Sauvignon Blanc, $21; 1991 Acacia Chardonnay, $27; 1991 Cotes du Rhone Villages from Chusclan, $17, 1990 Shafer Merlot, $28, and 12 Bordeaux.

But that prime rib deserves a better choice of Pinots.