Robert Gadsby’s Singing a Bernie’s Tune

“This won’t be the typical go-in-and-have-a-lasagne kind of place,” says Robert Gadsby, who is consulting chef at Bernie’s, due to open this month in the space formerly occupied by Roger’s Marina Cafe in Marina del Rey. “I plan to do creative food in a fun atmosphere.”

The family-style restaurant is owned by Bernard Davis, who sold the Dandelion Cafe in Venice two years ago. Gadsby plans a Mediterranean-style menu, but he couldn’t provide too many details, other than the following: “some really interesting entrees,” “good sandwiches,” “amazing appetizers” and “really great desserts.” One thing, though: Entrees should all be less than $12.

Also, Gadsby and chef Fred Eric (from Olive on Fairfax) are anxiously awaiting final approval on their loan to buy a popular Los Feliz restaurant. “We already have a lot of The Restaurant’s menu worked out,” says Eric. The two “creative” chefs are planning to install live fish tanks in the kitchen, and serve what Eric calls “happy food.”

SWISS MIFFED: Freddy Giradet (of Giradet in Crissier, Switzerland) might be considered the world’s best chef, but if the Guide Michelin gave out stars for tact, the three-star Swiss chef might not meet its standards. Consider this story: L.A.’s John Sedlar (chef-owner of Bikini in Santa Monica) and Hans Rockenwagner (Rockenwagner and Fama in Santa Monica, Rox in West Los Angeles) were traveling across Switzerland recently and stopped for lunch at Giradet’s mecca of gastronomy.

“Here we were arriving at one of the most reverential eating establishments in the world,” says Sedlar. “The meal was perfect. We even discussed with Jean-Louis, the maitre d’, all of our mutual clients.” So when Giradet came to their table, Sedlar extended his hand and thanked the chef for the excellent meal. Sedlar then asked Giradet if he spoke English. “Mr. Giradet looked at Hans and said in French, ‘Explain to your American friend that nothing in America interests me,’ ” says Sedlar. Giradet went on to say that he had only been to the United States once--New York City for three days--and found the raw products were not up to his standards. “He was borderline insulting,” says Sedlar.

“I was a little turned off by that too,” adds Rockenwagner.

As it happens, Rockenwagner had just finished giving a speech at a gourmet conference in Germany. The title: “Is the U.S.A. Taking Over the Culinary Leadership in the World?”

“The speech was a little controversial,” says Sedlar, “but even the Germans were a little more open-minded than Mr. Swiss.”

FRENCH FLYING: “Selection of Air France wines is a lengthy process that begins with a blind tasting by members of the Courtiers Jures Piqueurs de Vins de Paris, a wine brokers association,” boasts Air France in a recent press release. It goes on to add that the airline spent $25 million for its 12.5-million bottle “cellar in the sky.” In other words, the airline spent an average of $2 per bottle, less than what it costs to buy a can of Bud Light on most flights. “French wine is very inexpensive over there (in France),” says Air France spokeswoman Shelia Emmerich.

BEAUTIFUL DREAMER: When Babylon co-owner and self-described impresario Brent Bolthouse opened the Moroccan-themed clubby restaurant three months ago, he kept the phone number unlisted because he wanted it to be a hangout for only his closest pals. “All the place needs is food, music and a roomful of beautiful people,” the 23-year-old Bolthouse said at the time. Now he wants the address--616 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood--to be unlisted too.

SEE BRUCE RUN: Bruce Marder now offers patio dining, banquet facilities and a back room with music at West Beach Cafe. Well, technically, the activity will take place adjacent to the Venice restaurant in the small Craftsman-style house he’s just finished restoring. “I designed it myself without any interference,” Marder says. “It’s going to be like the back room at Dominick’s.” And that’s not all--Marder, who opened West Beach 15 years ago, is also busily planning his next project. “It’s a new concept,” he says of the unnamed low-budget restaurant. “It will be a cross between a Sizzler and an Urban Outfitters.”

WHERE FOOD IS KING: Up until the pint-size Millie’s was closed down in March by the IRS for non-payment of taxes, former owner Magenta proudly displayed the slogan “Where waitress is queen . . . and the customer is always wrong!” Then it was announced that another former owner, Paul Greenstein (he designed some of the first new wave neon signs on Melrose--Flip, Vinyl Fetish, Cowboys and Poodles, and Wacko) had bought back the Silver Lake institution. “We basically took the whole place apart and firehosed it,” he says.

Greenstein, who reopened Millie’s July 1, is still serving the biscuits and gravy, chicken-fried steak, and homemade sausage and eggs the tacky diner has been famous for. But, he says, “the waitress is no longer queen. We have this perverse idea that you should be able to get a good meal without getting abused.”

STOCKPOT: Castel restaurant on Wilshire has a new owner (Andre Bohbot), a new name (Castel Bistro) and a motto: “If God didn’t make it, we won’t serve it.”