Jammin’ : Taming the Wild Preserve

It was a winter weekend, cool and rainy and just right for hanging around the kitchen. In the back yard, two trees were heavy with fruit--tangelos and Meyer lemons--their branches hanging low, the very picture of fecundity.

It seemed the perfect time to make marmalade.

The problem was, I didn’t know how--not exactly. But that didn’t bother me too much. I looked through a half-dozen cookbooks, trying to get some rough ideas of ingredient proportions.

Let’s face it, when it comes to cooks, there are two types. Some people measure everything very carefully. They have favorite recipes they use all the time. For other people, people like me, recipes are guidelines and little more--to be followed or ignored as whim dictates. For us, following a recipe is like coloring within the lines: Follow the pattern exactly and everything will be fine. Your picture will look just like everyone else’s. But what fun is that?

In most cases, this kind of mild delayed adolescence does no harm. Jam-making, however, is not one of those. After three attempts to come up with the perfect tangelo-lemon marmalade, all I had were steamy windows, sticky counters and a thin syrup that might have been good as an ice cream topping--but who would want to pour lemon juice on ice cream?

Clearly, this is cooking that does not lend itself to ham-handed measures and Kentucky windage.

To understand why, you have to learn a little about what happens in the preserving process. That was my next step.

Basically, there are three elements that come into play--sugar, acid and pectin. All fruits contain these three elements to varying degrees. What happens in jam- and jelly-making is this: The sugar is absorbed into the cell walls of the fruit being preserved, giving the fruit a firm texture and preventing spoilage. The pectin within the fruit is released into the syrup, and--if the solution is acidic enough--the pectin strands unfold and trap bits of liquid, thickening the preserve. The two most critical variables are sugar and pectin. The more pectin in a jam, the more sugar needed.

Sounds simple enough, but, as Harold McGee points out in his invaluable “On Food and Cooking” (Scribners: 1984, $29.95): “Making preserves is a tricky business because the necessary balance between pectin, acid and sugar is a very delicate one.” He goes on to say that food scientists have found that a pH between 2.8 and 3.4, a pectin concentration of 0.5% to 1%, and a sugar concentration of 60% to 65% are optimal. But he adds that to be able to measure all of those factors, “you would have to be cooking in a well-equipped laboratory.”

Actually, it’s not quite that bad. A Lippincott home manual on canning from 1917 gives a pretty simple test for pectin content. Combine a tablespoon of fruit juice with a tablespoon of grain alcohol in a glass and swish it around. If it forms a clot, the fruit is high in pectin. If it breaks into many clots, it is moderate. If it forms flakes instead, it is low. (Do not, the book cautions, drink the mixture.)

If a fruit is merely moderate in pectin, the preserve can be corrected by reducing the amount of sugar. In her out-of-print “The Home Canning and Preserving Book,” Anne Serrane recommends a ratio of 3/4 cup of sugar per cup of juice for a fruit high in pectin and a ratio of 1/2 cup of sugar per cup of juice for a fruit that is lower in pectin.

But if a fruit is truly pectin-poor (apricots, cherries, strawberries, raspberries and peaches), the only solution is to add pectin--either in the form of a commercially prepared powder or from a homemade solution.

Commercial pectins are a controversial subject among jam and jelly makers. Some swear by them; others swear at them. They do make preserving much easier; on the other hand, they tend to be abused. If you’ve ever had a jam with the texture of an art gum eraser, you know what too much pectin can do. In addition, preserving purists claim, commercial pectins muddy the fresh fruit flavor that is the prime benefit of making your own jams and jellies. At any rate, it is easy enough to make a homemade substitute.

The actual cooking process for jams and jellies is fairly simple. Sugar, fruit and any additional pectin or acid are combined in a broad pan (all the better to heat quickly and evaporate better) and placed over high heat. When the combination reaches the jelling point (roughly 8 degrees above the boiling temperature of water--meaning, at sea level, 220 degrees--for a 60% sugar solution), the jam should be done. Do not overcook; pectin is destroyed by heat.

To test for doneness, drop a mound on a plate you’ve kept iced in the freezer. When the jam has cooled, it should form a skin on top and be fairly firm to the touch. Or dip a metal spoon into the mixture. When it is cooked, the jam will fall away from the spoon in a sheet, rather than in drops.

Jam that is too soft or liquidy--like my first batches--usually is the result of too much sugar, too little pectin or overcooking. Jelly that is tough has too little sugar (or too much pectin).

Of course, if all that is too complicated, you can do what I finally did--find a recipe and follow the directions. It may not be as much fun, but at least the results are edible.

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Because raspberries have little natural pectin, Edon Waycott adds homemade pectin to shorten the cooking time. The jam would thicken eventually without pectin, but the color would be darker and the berries a puree. Raspberries are sold in half-pint baskets, so measure carefully. The recipe is from Waycott’s “Preserving the Taste” (Hearst: 1993, $15) .

RASPBERRY JAM 6 pints raspberries 3 cups sugar 1 1/3 cups Homemade Pectin 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Pick over raspberries for leaves or unusable fruit. Rinse fruit. There should be 3 packed quarts. Combine with sugar in large bowl. Let stand at room temperature 6 hours, or overnight in refrigerator. Stir occasionally.

Stir together raspberry mixture, Homemade Pectin and lemon juice in large shallow non-reactive preserving pan and place over high heat. Bring to full boil, skim off foam, then lower heat to medium. Stir often so bottom does not burn. When jam is sufficiently thickened, bubbles on top will become smaller and jam will look like bubbling tar (about 20 minutes, depending on size of pan). If jam is still too liquid, continue cooking 5 minutes. Test again.

Turn off heat and remove 1 tablespoon of jam to small plate to test. Chill in freezer 5 minutes. If jam is desired consistency, turn heat to low while ladling jam into hot, sterilized jars. Wipe rims clean with damp towel. Seal with new lids and metal rings. Process in hot-water bath 5 minutes. Remove, cool, check seals, label and store. Makes 10 (1/2-pint) jars.

Each tablespoon contains about: 23 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.38 gram fiber.

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“Tart, slightly underripe green apples are the best choice for making your own pectin,” says Waycott. “They are inexpensive and easily available, have a very high concentration of pectin and don’t carry a strong flavor of their own. With commercial pectin products you add more sugar than fruit for jelling, but with homemade pectin, add no more sugar than necessary to bring the fruit to the point of sweetness. Adding homemade pectin stock to fruits that are lacking in natural pectin will not interfere with the flavor of the original fruit; it will help the fruit mixture come to a soft set without excessive cooking.”

Homemade Pectin 4 pounds underripe Granny Smiths, pippins or green apples, washed and cut into 1/8s, not cored or peeled 8 cups water

Place apples and water in large stockpot, cover, and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes or until apples are tender. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.

Pour pulp and juice through jelly bag, or line large bowl with dampened cheesecloth, pour pulp and juice through, gather corners of cheesecloth and tie in knot. Suspend from cabinet knob or handle and allow to drip into bowl overnight.

Next day, measure apple juice and pour into large pot. Bring to boil over high heat and cook until reduced by half. Refrigerate and use within 4 days, or pour into containers and freeze up to 6 months. Makes 3 cups.

Note : To determine reduction without use of measuring cup, measure depth of liquid in pan with plastic ruler before boiling. Remeasure as liquid reduces.

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This recipe, also from “Preserving the Taste,” takes advantage of the thickening properties of pureed fruit to provide part of the jellied texture.

NECTARINE JAM 8 pounds nectarines, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces (do not peel) 1 cup sugar 1 cup honey 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Rinse whole fruit. Toss together sliced fruit and sugar in large bowl. Let stand at room temperature 3 hours, or cover and refrigerate overnight.

Place large colander in 12-inch skillet and pour fruit and juice through. Drain 1 hour. Remove colander with fruit to bowl to collect additional juices. Bring syrup in skillet to boil over high heat. Cook until reduced by half and very syrupy, about 7 minutes.

Add fruit and accumulated juices and cook, stirring, 10 minutes. Fruit will soften and skin will come off and tint syrup. Process 1/2 of contents of skillet in food processor until smooth. Puree will thicken jam so that fruit does not need to be cooked further. Return to skillet. Add honey and lemon juice. Stir to combine. Taste for additional lemon juice.

Bring mixture back to simmer and ladle into hot sterilized jars. Wipe rims clean with damp towel. Seal with new lids and metal rings. Process in hot-water bath 5 minutes. Remove, cool, check seals, label and store. Makes 6 (1/2-pint) jars.

Each tablespoon contains about: 24 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.05 gram fiber.

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Apricots are among the easiest fruits to prepare: No peeling is necessary; the pit is freestone and the firm flesh makes perfect slices. This sunshine-orange fruit makes a naturally thick and luscious jam that tastes as good on unbuttered whole-wheat toast as on a warm, buttery croissant. This recipe is from “Preserving the Taste.”

APRICOT AND HONEY JAM 6 pounds ripe apricots 2 cups sugar 1/2 cup mild honey, such as orange blossom or clover 3 tablespoons lemon juice

Rinse apricots. Cut apricots in half through natural indentation and remove pits. Slice each half into 4 lengthwise strips. There should be approximately 4 quarts.

Gently combine apricot slices, sugar, honey and lemon juice in large, non-reactive bowl. Let stand at room temperature 3 to 4 hours, stirring several times to keep fruit coated and for juices to dissolve sugar.

Pour fruit mixture into 6-quart non-reactive shallow preserving pan and bring to boil over high heat. With metal spoon or fine mesh skimmer, skim off foam that forms on top. Reduce heat to medium. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, 20 to 30 minutes until mixture is thick with few chunks and slightly glazed.

Turn off heat and skim additional foam. Ladle into hot, sterilized jars. Wipe rims clean with damp towel. Seal with new lids and metal rings. Process in hot-water bath 5 minutes. Remove, cool, check seals, label and store. Makes 9 (1/2-pint) jars.

Each tablespoon contains about: 23 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.11 gram fiber.

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The summer crop of Bartlett pears would be perfect for this recipe from Janie Hibler’s “Dungeness Crabs and Blueberry Cobblers” (Knopf: 1991, $23). Use this preserve to top the pear bars below for a wonderful homey dessert.

GOLDEN AUTUMN PEAR PRESERVES 2 1/2 pounds pears, cored, peeled and cut into 1/8s 2 cups sugar 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and pulp 1/2 cup crystallized ginger, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1/4 cup pear brandy

Rinse whole fruit. Put pears, sugar and lemon juice with pulp in heavy pot and bring to boil. Adjust heat to medium and simmer 1 hour until mixture turns deep golden brown and thickens. Remove from heat and stir in crystallized ginger and brandy.

Pour into jar or plastic container and let cool. Cover and store in freezer. Makes 2 cups.

Each tablespoon contains about: 82 calories; 2 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.51 grams fiber.

Note : For very ripe, sweet pears, reduce sugar to 1 to 1 1/2 cups.

PEAR PRESERVE BARS 3/4 cup butter 1 tablespoon powdered sugar Flour 1 1/2 to 2 cups pear preserves 6 tablespoons oats 3 tablespoons brown sugar, packed 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 3 tablespoons butter

Cream together butter, powdered sugar and 2 cups flour and pat into 8x8-inch baking pan. Bake 15 to 20 minutes at 350 degrees until pale golden brown. Let cool slightly and top with pear preserves.

Mix together 3 tablespoons flour, oats, brown sugar and baking soda. Using pastry cutter, mix in butter until mixture resembles coarse meal. Spread on top of preserves and bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes. Makes 16 servings.

Each serving contains about: 257 calories; 114 mg sodium; 29 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.38 gram fiber.

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This thoroughly modern preserve from Jeanne Lesem’s “Preserving Today” (Knopf: 1992, $23), uses a food processor to puree the spread and then keeps in the freezer, without the need for canning.

MANGO SPREAD 3 (about 1 pound each) large ripe mangoes 1 tablespoon fresh lemon or lime juice 1/4 cup sugar, optional

Holding each mango over work bowl of food processor to catch juice, cut slices from fat pits. With grapefruit spoon or other sharp-edged spoon, scrape flesh into work bowl. Cut remaining flesh from pits, scrape flesh from strips of peel and puree.

Place puree in 2-quart saucepan and add lemon juice and sugar. Bring quickly to boil. Reduce heat and cook about 20 minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking. Ladle into hot, sterilized jars or freezer containers. Cool, cover tightly, label and refrigerate or freeze. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

Each tablespoon contains about: 10 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.13 gram fiber.