The Last Picnic : The Pleasures of <i> Panini</i>

The sandwich may not have originated in Italy, but nowhere else is it prepared with such care and creativity. Perhaps this is due to the quality and diversity of Italian bread, the array of fresh and healthy ingredients available, and the simplicity with which Italians combine them. Italians have taken to the form and given sandwiches a name of their own-- panini.

By nature, Italians have a highly developed sense of play and imagination (think of the multitude of pasta shapes), and they bring these characteristics to the task of fashioning bread into different shapes and flavors. From the hands of the bread baker comes a range of breads to choose from when making panini : michette , round rolls with hollow centers; fat, cigar-shaped loaves called filone ; focaccia , a flatbread, sparkling with sea salt or fragrant with herbs; little rolls as small as cherries to stuff with elegant fillings, and many other breads that are rustic, regional or refined.

Panini have become a part of Italy’s eating tradition: a light bite between meals, miniature panini served with drinks before dinner, hearty panini tucked into a basket and eaten on a picnic or on the train. Even in the land of the long lunch, busy working people can often be found leaning against the counter of a bar eating freshly prepared panini chosen from an enticing array.

Here in California, what could be more delightful than enjoying the tastes of panini al fresco ? After all, sandwiches are the ideal picnic food: easy to make, easy to transport and easy to eat. And when made Italian-style, they take on a whole new dimension.

With our very own Mediterranean-like climate--blue water, palm trees and sultry summer days--this is perfect land for picnicking. What better way to recreate the joyous feeling of life than to bite into a panino tasting of Italy, while picnicking by the sea?

Of course, Italians don’t need to go very far to satisfy their craving for panini. Bars and caffes are where much of the panini action takes place, and there seems to be one on every street and street corner; they are in bus stations and airports, at beach and mountain resorts, in large public parks, and at the end of dusty and desolate country roads. Small villages may have only one bar or two competing ones, but they are important gathering places, where locals share news and socialize.

The majority are neighborhood places for grabbing an espresso, swallowed in a few quick sips, drinking a small cold beer on a hot afternoon, enjoying a diabolically bitter digestivo or having a fluffy cappuccino and cornetto (croissant) before heading off for work in the morning. At a bar, panini and drinks are dispensed from behind the counter and consumed while standing; caffes offer seating and are equipped with waiters. The first offers speed, the second the pleasure of lingering.

In Rome, some of the best caffes may be found within a short distance from each other.

Caffe Greco is located on a fashionable shopping street, the Via Condotti, which leads directly into the heart of the Piazza di Spagna. Outside the caffe’s doors is a constant stream of humanity--families, flocks of school children, glamorous women, sleek and bronzed and adorned with jewels, and tourists, waves of tourists. Even the woman selling hot roasted chestnuts and green olives from a barrel in the Piazza di Spagna seems to pity the weary but determined tourists as she watches them go by.

Located in the same spot for more than two centuries, this venerable caffe offers a respite to all--tourists and Romans, young and old. Behind its beautiful polished wood doors is a series of elegant rooms, walls lined with gilt-framed mirrors reflecting golden light, making you feel you’ve traveled into the past. Antique marble-topped tables and banquettes covered in worn crimson velvet are set against a background of colored smoky vanilla. Waiters in slightly faded formal attire bear silver trays laden with small sandwiches, pastries and assorted drinks.

Although the sandwiches at Caffe Greco are far from the best to be found in Rome, the setting is so enchanting that you surrender to it and enjoy the show: two wealthy Roman matrons with matching Yorkshire terriers drinking espressos; Japanese tourists dressed head to toe in Italian designer fashions sipping white wine; an American actor and director talking Hollywood, seated next to a refined old Italian gentleman, his cane propped against his little caffe table, and the jolliest of the lot, three British women on holiday enjoying their cappuccinos, one commenting that if this caffe were in her neighborhood, she’d be “nippin’ in ‘ere all the time!”

At Caffe Greco you can order tramezzini , a type of tea sandwich made with thinly sliced sandwich bread. The bread may be spread with a touch of butter or mayonnaise and filled with chicken breast or perhaps tomato and mozzarella, all thinly sliced. Or you can order dainty rolls, perhaps a little stale, but filled with good prosciutto or tangy caponata.

Remember, the food here is secondary to the place itself; somehow within the beautiful walls of Caffe Greco everything tastes good.

Just around the corner on Via Frattina is Bar Vanni, the quintessential caffe -bar. Its attraction is of a different sort--fast, bustling, large, bright, at peak hours crowded with customers standing three, four, five deep against the bar. At Bar Vanni you may order ice cream in every flavor, sip chilled sweet tea or lemonade and nibble on pastries. Here, the sandwich selection, displayed behind gleaming glass counters, is one of the best in town. There are medaglioni , round rolls filled with prosciutto or mozzarella. Pizza Romana is one of my favorites, and it’s served to you hot off the grill--a square of focaccia split and filled with mozzarella and tomato or prosciutto, then placed under the weight of a burning hot sandwich grill until the mozzarella melts to cream. Bar Vanni’s tramezzini are fresh and good, layered with sliced artichokes and tomatoes or filled with insalata russa , a mix of diced vegetables bound with mayonnaise, to name just two of the many variations.

Rosati’s is another of the great old caffes of Rome. This one faces the Piazza del Popolo. Here, the place to sit is outside, to watch the evening passeggiata . At rush hour, it’s not only people but vehicles that stream past you--buses crowded with workers on their way home, burly motorcycles blasting through the narrow streets, tiny cars threading their way through the thick traffic, and fleets of young people on noise-driven Vespas. Teen-agers hang out around the church in the piazza, and so do the Gypsies, with whom you scrupulously attempt to avoid eye contact.

On summer evenings, you can sit forever over a Campari and soda and watch the never-ending spectacle of Italian life. As the sun starts to set and the streets begin to darken, while the last traces of golden sunlight land in the Roman sky, your waiter will bring you a small plate of bite-sized tramezzini to take the edge off your appetite as you while away the hours before a late-night dinner.

As you wander around Rome, other bars and caffes offer other enticements-- panini filled with bresaola , robiola and arugula or layered with bufala mozzarella and mountain prosciutto; rustic panini filled with coarse local salami or slices of roasted pork; truffle-paste tea sandwiches, and little rolls fragrant with olive oil, filled with rich lobster and mayonnaise.

Back at home, it’s easy to create your own Italian-style sandwiches. For an elegant afternoon picnic in the countryside consider serving sophisticated avocado and arugula tramezzini . Wrap a few rough panini in paper--a rustic chicken and peperonata sandwich or a panino filled with eggplant and ricotta salata --for a picnic on the beach. Take along panini with garden tomatoes and chopped herbs layered on pane integrale --whole-grain bread--for an impromptu picnic in the park. How about a panino with sweet mozzarella and raw summer vegetables, and cold Italian soft drinks to wash it down?

Frittata panini are popular in Italy, often tucked into a lunch bag; try a lightly sweetened frittata perfumed with lemon, the bread spread with glossy fig jam--perfect for a child’s picnic lunch. And as for that all-American tradition of cranking up some homemade ice cream for a back-yard picnic, surprise guests with an Italian twist on ice cream sandwiches: a split brioche or michetta packed with cold, creamy gelato.

All you need to do justice to panini are high-quality ingredients: fresh seasonal produce, authentic cheeses, cured meats free of chemicals and, above all, bread--the best you can find. With all the new artisanal bread bakeries, as well as the many fine ethnic markets that produce crusty loaves, chewy, coarsely textured rolls and wholesome grain breads, we now have a wealth of great breads to use when making our own home-grown panini.

Excellent products such as fresh mozzarella in water and tangy ricotta salata , imported prosciutto and bresaola , and real olives are easily found in specialty and import shops as well as in some local markets. With so much available to us, the pleasures of panini are within easy reach.

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What could be more refreshing on a hot summer day than a sandwich filled with cool, juicy slices of tart-sweet tomato and fragrant herbs? When the tomatoes are layered between slices of rustic bread, it becomes a sandwich that is satisfying as well as refreshing.

PANINO RUSTICO DI POMODORO 2 slices Italian-style whole-grain bread Extra-virgin olive oil Fresh lemon juice or imported red wine vinegar Salt Freshly ground pepper Chopped basil and mint leaves 1/4 teaspoon dried Mediterranean oregano, such as Greek oregano 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 2 ripe but firm tomatoes, cored and sliced

Drizzle 1 side of each slice of bread with olive oil and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Scatter basil and oregano to taste and garlic over 1 slice of bread. Top with sliced tomato. Season to taste with salt, basil, oregano and garlic. Cover with other slice of bread. Makes 1 sandwich.

Sandwich contains about: 207 calories; 560 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.35 grams fiber.

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Although avocado is still rather exotic in Italy, it does appear in markets, imported from Israel and other countries. It works beautifully as a filling for tramezzini. The naturally creamy green flesh holds the bread together, and the mild flavor of the bread lets you fully appreciate the buttery-rich flavor of the fruit.

AVOCADO, CAPER AND ARUGULA TRAMEZZINI 8 slices white sandwich bread (pane in cassetta), made from unbleached flour 1 medium avocado, ripe but firm 1 tablespoon capers Lemon juice Salt Freshly ground pepper 16 small, tender arugula leaves Extra-virgin olive oil Trim crusts off bread.

Cut avocado in half lengthwise. Remove pit. Cut each half in half again lengthwise. Peel each section and cut into lengthwise slices. Fan out avocado on 4 slices of bread, using 1/4 of avocado on each slice of bread.

Scatter capers over avocado, pressing down lightly so capers adhere. Sprinkle with lemon juice (abut 1 teaspoon per sandwich). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange arugula leaves over top. Season to taste lightly with salt. Drizzle with olive oil to taste. Cover with other slices of bread. Press down gently.

Serve soon after assembling. Avocado will discolor in contact with air. Makes 4 sandwiches.

Each sandwich contains about: 321 calories; 534 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 42 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.05 grams fiber.

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Pasta with eggplant, tomato, salted ricotta and basil, called pasta alla Norma, is one of my all-time favorites. Claimed by the city of Catania, the pasta is named in honor of the opera “Norma” by its famous native son, the composer Vincenzo Bellini. I’ve used the same ingredients (minus the pasta) in a sublime sandwich that does justice to its namesake.

PANINI ALLA NORMA 1 pound firm eggplant, either Japanese or regular globe-shaped Salt Extra-virgin olive oil 1 flat loaf ciabatta (slipper bread), cut into 6 pieces, or 12 slices crusty flatbread 1/4 cup Basil Pesto Spread 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped walnuts 1 large ripe but firm tomato, cored and cut into 8 slices 4 ounces moist ricotta salata, coarsely crumbled 8 large basil leaves

Trim tops of eggplant. Slice lengthwise about 1/4-inch thick. Salt slices lightly and let drain 30 minutes. Wipe dry with paper towels. Brush eggplant on both sides with olive oil. Arrange eggplant slices on baking sheet. Bake at 400 degrees about 10 minutes. Turn slices over and brush with more olive oil, if slices appear dry. Cook another 10 minutes, or until eggplant is tender and lightly golden. Remove from oven and blot off excess oil with paper towels.

Slice bread in half horizontally. Toast lightly to crisp bread. Spread half of Basil Pesto Spread on 6 bottom slices of bread. Sprinkle with walnuts. Layer eggplant slices over pesto. Top with tomato slices, crumbled ricotta salata and whole basil leaves. Spread remaining pesto on other bread slices. Cover and press down lightly. Makes 6 sandwiches.

Each sandwich contains about: 216 calories; 243 mg sodium; 12 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.07 grams fiber.

Note : Although tradition calls for grated dry ricotta salata, which is available at most Italian delis, moist ricotta salata gives the sandwich a tangy, creamy quality. If unavailable, substitute feta cheese.

Ciabatta means “slipper,” and this bread, with its elongated, flat shape, does indeed resemble bedroom slippers. Any chewy, crusty flatbread can be used instead.

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Fresh basil pesto, perhaps more than anything else, led the revolution in Italian cooking here in America. It wasn’t red and it didn’t cook for hours on the stove. It wasn’t long before people began to realize that there was more to Italian cooking than spaghetti and meatballs.

This same aromatic pesto can also be used as a spread for sandwiches. The following recipe produces a dense pesto specifically for sandwiches; if using for pasta, add a little more olive oil and thin with a bit of hot pasta water.

Basil Pesto Spread 2 cups basil leaves, tightly packed 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed with mortar and pestle 1/4 cup pine nuts, coarsely crushed with mortar and pestle Salt 3 tablespoons freshly grated imported Parmesan 4 tablespoons freshly grated imported Pecorino Romano

Place basil, olive oil, garlic, pine nuts and salt in blender. Process until finely textured but not completely smooth. Scrape pesto into bowl and stir in cheese.

If not using immediately, pour thin layer of extra-virgin olive oil over top. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until needed. Makes about 1 cup.

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Adding to the rustic feeling of this chicken sandwich topped with glossy peperonata and fresh basil leaves is the dark imprint of the grill on country bread, and the scent of rosemary in the air.

Although it may seem heretical, if the peppers lack natural sweetness, sprinkle them with a little sugar as they cook, to help bring out what should have been there in the first place.

CHICKEN AND PEPERONATA ON GRILLED ROSEMARY BREAD 2 chicken breast halves Water Salt Freshly ground pepper 4 sprigs rosemary 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 small onion, sliced 1 sweet red pepper, cored, seeded and cut into thick strips 1 sweet yellow pepper, cored, seeded and cut into thick strips Sugar, optional 6 oil-cured black olives, pitted and cut in half 1 tablespoon capers Dash red pepper flakes 8 large, thin slices crusty rosemary bread 2 cloves garlic, cut in half 8 basil leaves, coarsely chopped

Place chicken in medium skillet and add 1/2 cup water. Season chicken to taste with salt and pepper. Place rosemary sprigs over chicken. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat 15 to 20 minutes, or until flesh is just firm to touch. Let chicken cool in pan.

In medium skillet, heat olive oil. Add onion. Saute over medium-low heat about 8 minutes, stirring often. Add red and yellow peppers and sugar. Continue to cook, covered, until peppers are tender.

Toward end of cooking, stir in olives, capers and red pepper flakes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

When chicken is cool, remove skin and bones. Separate meat into strips. Cut diagonally into 3/4-inch-thick pieces.

Grill bread on both sides, preferably over grill or stove-top cast-iron grill or place under broiler. Very lightly rub 1 side of each slice of bread with cut garlic cloves.

Arrange chicken over 4 slices of bread. Top with pepper mixture. Sprinkle basil over peppers. Cover with remaining bread. Makes 4 sandwiches.

Each sandwich contains about: 369 calories; 603 mg sodium; 42 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 23 grams protein; 0.46 grams fiber.

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The most tender vegetables of the season, when served raw with an olive oil dipping sauce, are called pinzimonio. Here, a garden’s worth of raw vegetables is layered over fresh mozzarella, each ingredient bathed in olive oil and lemon juice. The sandwich looks fresh and inviting, like a salad within a sandwich.

For an al fresco lunch, present the loaf unsliced, then cut into sections at the table. Serve with oil-cured black olives flavored with red pepper flakes. Offer Italian soft drinks such as aranciata and chinotto, and a big bottle of mineral water. For dessert? A bowl of seasonal fruits cooled with ice cubes, a piece of bittersweet chocolate and biscotti.

BIG LOAF WITH PINZIMONIO 1 flat loaf country bread, such as ciabatta Extra-virgin olive oil Lemon juice Salt Freshly ground pepper 4 large leaves butter lettuce 1/2 pound fresh mozzarella, drained and thinly sliced 4 Roma tomatoes, cored and sliced 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 sweet yellow pepper, cored, seeded, cut into thin rounds 2 carrots, peeled and grated 6 radishes, trimmed and grated 10 basil leaves

Cut bread in half horizontally. If loaf is more than couple of inches thick, pull out some of bread in top and bottom of loaf to create hollows. Moisten interior of both sides generously with olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

Begin layering lettuce, mozzarella, tomatoes, onion, pepper, carrots, radishes and basil on bottom half of bread. Drizzle each layer with few drops olive oil and lemon juice to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover with other half of loaf. Press down lightly to help ingredients bind together. Keep loaf whole for presentation. Just before serving, cut into 4 sections. Makes 4 sandwiches.

Each serving contains about: 432 calories; 700 mg sodium; 47 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 47 grams carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 0.82 grams fiber.

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Lemon, tart and fragrant, perfectly accents the honey-sweet flavor of figs. Here they come together in a sandwich featuring a lemon frittata nestled between slices of buttered bread spread with fig jam.

I use a luscious fig jam imported from Lebanon. Or you can mash very ripe peeled figs, sweeten with a few drops of honey if necessary, and spread on the bread in place of the jam.

LEMON FRITTATA AND FIG JAM PANINO 2 eggs 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon lemon juice Dash salt Unsalted butter, slightly softened 4 large slices country white bread, or 2 large round rolls Fig jam

Break eggs into bowl and beat with fork. Add sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt. Mix well.

Place 1 tablespoon butter in oven-proof skillet about 6 inches in diameter. Turn to medium-high. When butter melts and turns golden, add egg mixture. Stir until large curds form. When frittata is firm but top is still runny, place under hot broiler until top is just firm. Turn out frittata and let cool. Cut frittata in half.

Lightly butter 2 slices of bread. Spread with some fig jam. Top each slice of bread with half of frittata. Cover with remaining bread slices. Makes 2 sandwiches.

Each serving contains about: 400 calories; 589 mg sodium; 240 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 0.34 grams fiber.

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Baked twice until they are hard and crunchy, these biscotti travel well.

ALMOND BISCOTTI 2 cups unbleached flour 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 4 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 tablespoons amaretto liqueur 1 cup raw unpeeled almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped Butter

Stir together flour, sugar and baking powder in bowl.

In separate bowl, lightly beat 3 eggs with fork. Add vanilla and amaretto to eggs and stir. Pour egg mixture into bowl containing flour. Stir with wooden spoon until crumbly dough forms. Add nuts and stir again.

Knead dough on wooden board. Sprinkle board with little flour, if dough sticks. Divide dough in halves and form 2 flat logs about 3 inches in diameter. Arrange logs on lightly buttered baking sheet. Beat remaining egg and brush logs with egg.

Bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven. Let cool slightly. With serrated knife, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices, cutting on diagonal. Arrange cookies cut-side-down on baking sheet. Bake again at 350 degrees 15 minutes or until golden brown. Makes 24 biscotti.

Each serving contains about: 103 calories; 29 mg sodium; 35 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.20 grams fiber.