Nine years ago, after moving to California...

Nine years ago, after moving to California from Peru, Dr. Enrique Coello and his wife, Bessie, decided to open a restaurant. The result was El Sol, one of the oldest and best Peruvian eateries in the South Bay.

The couple sold the restaurant last year, but El Sol continues to serve fine Peruvian fare ranging from octopus to lamb. Located in a Lawndale mini-mall next to a Persian restaurant, El Sol is a spacious and inviting place with white floors, blue tablecloths and dark wooden chairs. The walls are decorated with various musical instruments and Peruvian artifacts. Spanish songs play as ceiling fans gently cool the room. Peruvian soda pop and beer are on hand to refresh diners who indulge too boldly in one of the hot specials de la casa.

One such special is the chupe de camarones ($5.95), a very good soup made of fish stock full of medium shrimp, peas, potatoes and corn and topped with a fried egg. A fiery sauce made with Peruvian rocoto chiles is served with the soup. Use it sparingly, or you’ll destroy the delicacy of the soup.

A popular appetizer, and big enough for two, is the ceviche mixto ($7.25), a medley of shrimp, clams and squid marinated in limes and served on a bed of lettuce and corn.

My top pick here, along with the shrimp soup, is the saltado de marisco ($7.95). This is a large, colorful platter of sauteed shrimp, squid, mussels, scallops and octopus mixed with red onions, red bell peppers, tomatoes, green onions, steamed white rice and french fries.

For those who like octopus, one of the stars of the saltado de marisco, there is pulpo al ajo ($9.25), which features the tasty tentacles with a garlic sauce. Octopus also teams up with shrimp, clams and squid in the Peruvian bouillabaisse ($12.95).

El Sol features a daily $5 lunch special. Fridays, for example, feature soup of the day, charbroiled chicken and Peruvian punch. Thursday’s highlight is a lamb stew with rice and white beans.

El Sol is at 15651 Hawthorne Blvd., Lawndale. (310) 973-2486. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday.