TASTING NOTES : A Giant Popping Sound: Domestic Sparkling Wine

The greatest success story in the California sparkling wine business this past year has been Mumm Napa Valley, the joint project of G. H. Mumm of France and Jos. Seagram and Sons.

Winemaker Greg Fowler, using Pinot Gris as a spicing element in his sparkling wines along with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, won more medals at major competitions this year than any other sparkling wine.

Sales of Mumm Napa have exceeded 125,000 cases in annual sales. Fowler was actually obliged to make some of it at other winery facilities in 1993. Statistics from Gomberg, Fredrikson and Associates of San Francisco show that Mumm’s sales are up 21% for the first nine months of 1993.

Part of the success of Mumm has been its wide acceptance overseas. Mumm has sold more than 50,000 cases of its Napa in Europe, most of it in London, in the last year. Another part of the success has been discount pricing. With a suggested retail price of $15, the wine is selling at many discounters below $10.

Mumm wines scored best in various tastings I staged in the last month. They showed not only style and great texture, but excellent consistency.

The following wines were evaluated in the categories listed, with labels visible, so we could see whether wineries were following house style. They are listed in order of preference. All wines are non-vintage unless a vintage date appears. At least one fairly expensive wine in each group scored so poorly it was listed below the recommended wines.

BLANC DE BLANCS

(Chardonnay-Based)

1. Mumm-Napa Valley ($15)--Stylishly fruity, spicy aroma with nuances of pepper and faint hints of lemon/lime zest. A dry wine with impeccable balance that works with a wide variety of lighter foods.

2. Glenora Winery, New York ($13)--I have always loved this wine, which is not easy to find in California. There is a fresh fruit and yeasty aroma and a classic creamy finish. A great wine that always does well in wine competitions.

3. Scharffenberger Cellars, Mendocino ($17)--Stylish bread dough aroma, but a bit heavy. Not great, but nice, richer-styled wine.

Five others evaluated included 1987 Robert Mondavi Winery “Brut Chardonnay Reserve” ($35), which was judged old, oxidative and dull, lacking fruit; not recommended.

BLANC DE NOIRS

(Pinot Noir-Based)

1. Mumm-Napa Valley ($15)--The most award-winning sparkling wine of 1993, this stylish wine has a delicate nuance of toast and strawberries and ample fruit in the mouth to go with perfect balance of sweetness and austerity. Great wine, and often discounted to $11 or so.

2. Domaine Chandon, Carneros ($13)--Marvelously complex aroma of dried strawberries, toast, yeast and richness. A wine that is better cold; at warmer temperatures the sweetness stands out. Exceptional with rich foods.

3. 1990 Iron Horse Vineyards “Wedding Cuvee,” Sonoma County ($22)--A more austere style of wine that once carried the designation “Blanc de Noirs.” A perfect blending of yeast and strawberries and a really dry aftertaste. A bit tart for some people, but a classic worth trying.

4. 1991 Mirassou Vineyards, Monterey County ($13)--Attractive fruity aroma has a faint trace of fresh celery, but the wine is very pleasant and creamy. An elegant and tasty wine.

Four others evaluated included 1989 S. Anderson Vineyard, Napa Valley ($18), which had more earthy, rooty qualities than fruit but was overpriced, and 1987 Domaine Ste. Michelle, Washington ($13), which had an odd petroleum note and wasn’t bad, but not in the same league as the others.

BRUT

(Dry Wines, Generally Blends of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir)

1. Mumm “Cuvee Napa, Brut Prestige,” Napa Valley ($15)--Fresh, spiced fruit and layered toast/anise finish. A delicate style of wine, but perfectly framed and crafted.

2. Gloria Ferrer, Sonoma County ($14)--A trace more lemon than some, but with a delightful spice note and clean, fresh finish.

3. Codorniu Napa, Napa Valley ($15)--Mature aroma with toast and delicate fruit on the tongue. Nicely made.

4. 1989 Jordan Winery “J”, Sonoma County ($22)--Lovely fruit notes and spice, but the wine appears a bit simple now. Perhaps in a year it will become fleshier.

5. 1987 S. Anderson Vineyard, Napa Valley ($18)--Older aroma, faintly oxidized, but should be appreciated by those with an “English palate” who prefer the more-aged character of sparkling wine.

BRUT ROSE

(Pinot Noir-Based)

1. 1989 Schramsberg Vineyards “Cuvee de Pinot, Brut Rose,” Napa Valley ($22)--Strawberry and jam notes create the effect of a red wine nose, but there is some delicacy here alongside a trace of oxidation that wasn’t objectionable. An elegant, refined, dry wine perfect for matching with salmon.

2. 1989 Van der Kamp Champagne Cellar “Midnight Cuvee, Brut Rose,” Sonoma Valley ($14.50)--Fresh berries with a round, soft underbelly. Tasty and appealing if a bit too soft and supple. Better as an aperitif.

PRESTIGE CUVEES

1. (tie) 1989 Roederer Estate “L’Ermitage,” Mendocino County ($35): The first prestige blend by Michel Salgues from this excellent Anderson Valley property, the wine is fruitier than the J. Schram with fresh strawberry, spice, candied apple notes. There is a spicy note in the taste and the finish is leaner than the J. Schram.

1989 Schramsberg Vineyards “J. Schram,” Napa Valley ($50): By far the yeastier, doughier of the two wines, with great depth of fruit and a lovely creamy aftertaste. A great wine, especially for those who like them a bit richer.

3. Maison Deutz “Brut Reserve” ($18)--More delicate than the above wines with an interesting spice note and good fruit (lemon and mango) to go along with a fairly crisp, dry finish. Excellent value.

4. Tie between Domaine Chandon “Brut Reserve” and Domaine Chandon “Etoile”: These two wines made by Dawnine Dyer are excellent in different ways. The Reserve is richer, yeastier, with more of a biscuit-y sort of aftertaste. A rich and luscious wine. The latter (a blend of 1984 and 1986 wines) has more elegance and fruit and appears a little softer of the two. Both are exceptional.

Four others evaluated included 1988 Culbertson Winery “Brut Reserve” ($25), which had an aroma of wizened apples, a trace of oxidation and a finish that was a bit too sweet and soft.