California’s Red: Original Zin

The grape California winemakers call a local exclusive, Zinfandel, has a mystery and a history unlike any other, which should make for a lot of hometown fans.

Yet for some reason, Zinfandel (the red wine, not the white) doesn’t seem to have caught on with wine lovers as well as one might expect. It is a most versatile wine that goes with a wider variety of foods than does young Cabernet Sauvignon. But while Cabernet, the grape of Bordeaux, became California’s red wine darling, Zinfandel languished.

Zinfandel’s checkered past may have something to do with this. Back in the 1970s, when Zinfandel was still a raw adolescent in the hands of experimenting winemakers, we saw red wines that ranged from light, more like Beaujolais, to very heavy, almost like a dry Port. And the latter wines often had enough tannin to remove enamel from teeth.

Is it any wonder that the wine lover, not knowing which kind of wine was in which bottle, opted for Cabernet?

Zinfandel still had its fans, though, and a mini-renaissance developed among savvy drinkers in the mid-1980s as wineries tamed tannins, accented fruit and aged the wine in expensive oak barrels from France, adding complexity.

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Now two great vintages in a row (1990 and 1991) throughout most of California have created a more obvious and broad-based wave of interest in Zin. Though few retail shop newsletters headline the fact that the latest Ridge or Ravenswood Zinfandel is in house (Cabernet still rules), Zin fans are having a great time with some great wine.

After sampling more than 100 Zinfandels over the last two months, I found it difficult to find a personal favorite, so uniformly excellent are the wines. The styles vary, from light to heavy, from tannic to delicate, but the consistent quality makes trying to rank favorites confounding.

Frankly, I think I might have preferred it when two-thirds of all Zinfandel was mere high-alcohol plonk and easy to dismiss with a wave of the hand. Nowadays I sit facing row upon row of excellent Zinfandels trying to pick a “winner” from among a range of exceptionally fine wines.

To jot down a laundry list of all 90 Zinfandels I liked would be pointless, so here are a few personal favorites, in a range of styles.

However, should you forget the names listed below, just remember that Sonoma County Zinfandels from 1990 and 1991 seem to be so good across the board that you almost can’t go wrong. And Zins from Mendocino County are not more than a half stride behind.

The good news keeps coming: Not only are the following 17 wines hefty in flavor, but they are already quite drinkable (with the right foods, of course) and more reasonably priced than comparable-quality Cabernets, most of which need more age.

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1991 Kendall-Jackson Vineyards “Grand Reserve” ($20)--Pricey (the highest-priced wine I tasted), but may be worth it. Actually lighter in weight than I would have imagined for the price, but the claret-like aroma and taste are perfectly honed. No rough edges, and a simply delightful, soft finish. Kendall-Jackson’s less expensive “Vintner’s Reserve” Zinfandel ($10) is structured similarly, has a bit less depth, but its wonderful fruit makes it a good value.

1992 Gary Farrell Wines, Russian River Valley ($16)--One of the state’s most gifted winemakers has done it again. This great wine has the delicacy of claret, yet the weight of a more powerful wine without the astringency. This wine once was a bargain at $12, but past success has forced the price up. Still worth trying, despite the higher price.

1992 Limerick Lane Zinfandel “Collins Vineyards” ($13.50)--In a similar vein, this is made from the same northern Sonoma County grapes by Farrell, but aged slightly differently. I loved its graceful and spicy fruit. To be released soon.

1991 Chateau Souverain, Dry Creek Valley ($8.50)--Gobs of fruit, a note of coffee and a rich, rewarding, drinkable finish. Good value.

1990 Haywood Winery, Sonoma Valley ($14)--A huge, peppery, spice-scented wine with hints of anise and clove. Always a winner, and already showing bottle bouquet.

1992 J. Fritz Winery, Dry Creek Valley ($11)--Clove and sandalwood spices and a load of fruit, but the wine is fairly dry and has a lean finish.

1991 Mazzocco Vineyards, Sonoma County ($14)--A load of smoke and oak notes from barrel aging, but lots of raspberry fruit too. A wine for people who like oomph.

1992 Claudia Springs Winery, Mendocino County ($10)--More like Beaujolais in aroma, but with a trace of mint to add appeal. Nicely made, lighter-style wine.

1991 Dry Creek Vineyards, Dry Creek, “Old Vines” ($13)--Raspberry jam, green peppercorn spice, and an intriguing earthy note make this one of the most prototypal of Sonoma County Zinfandels.

1991 Fetzer Vineyards “Barrel Select” ($9)--Some smoke and toasted oak smells intertwine with berry and spice notes in a nicely crafted wine.

1991 Rodney Strong Vineyards “River West Old Vines, Estate” ($14)--Chewy, smoky, jam-like and very rich, but not as rough or overripe as some past vintages; a full-bodied but still approachable wine.

1990 Beringer Vineyards ($8.50)--A light-styled claret character with soft, generous fruit and an appealing finish.

1992 DeLoach Vineyards “Papera Ranch” ($14)--This is one of a series of vineyard-designated wines from the Russian River area of Sonoma County--very appealing, with new oak, raspberry jam fruit and a powerfully rich taste. I also liked the wine designated Gambogi Ranch, but wasn’t as thrilled by those with the names Pelletti or Barbieri.

1991 Renwood “Grandpere Vineyard” ($16)--A new label from Santino winemaker Scott Harvey, this wine comes from his 140-year-old vines in Amador County. It is a rich and powerful wine showing huge gobs of jam, coffee and exotic spices.

1991 Seghesio Winery, “Old Vines,” Alexander Valley ($14)--Lots of spice and raspberry/blackberry. Fairly dense and tannic, but should be great in a year or two.

1992 Concannon Vineyards, “Nora’s Vineyard,” Sonoma Valley ($12.95)--Soft, gentle strawberry aroma and elegant texture. A lovely, tasty wine.