Advertisement

Beverly Hills (213) on the Outs With Victor Drai

Share

Victor Drai doesn’t get bent out of shape very easily. After all, he knows that as the owner of Drai’s, one of the hottest restaurants in town, and as the person who ultimately determines who gets in and who gets snubbed, he’s bound to make a few enemies.

A local magazine reported that billionaire Marvin Davis and producer Arnold Kopelson were told nothing was available when they called for last-minute reservations. Former Spago maitre d’ Bernard Erpicum was shown the door for annoying Drai’s customers.

“Some Hollywood people expect to be treated like royalty,” says Drai. “I can’t make some poor schmuck wait for two hours because so-and-so walks into the restaurant. Besides, Marvin has come back many times--he’s a real sweetheart.”

Advertisement

The latest Drai flap involves the weekly publication Beverly Hills (213). When publisher Seth Baker was refused a table, he left a message for Drai to call him back. “I saw his message with 20 others and I didn’t call him,” says Drai. “I had no idea who he was.”

Shortly afterward, Drai’s La Cienega Boulevard restaurant was listed as “out” in an “In and Out” column published in Baker’s 50,000-circulation weekly. “First I heard (Baker) was mad and told his staff never to mention my restaurant in the paper again,” says Drai. “That didn’t bother me. What bothered me is when he put me in an ‘out’ list when I’m busy every night. That’s mean.”

“There are no blacklists or vendettas,” says Baker. “Drai’s was listed as ‘out’ because in the 12 years we’ve been doing this, I’ve never had as many complaints about a place. He’s been rude to an awful lot of people. He’s got to learn some manners.”

“The paper is read by people I don’t care about anyway,” says Drai. “I don’t even know the guy and I did nothing wrong to him.”

*

GINZA GROWS: Southern California’s most expensive restaurant, hidden away in a mid-Wilshire strip mall, will close in two weeks. But sushi fans who can’t get enough ika , kampachi and okara have a new reason to go on living: Ginza Sushi-Ko will reopen at its newer, larger quarters on the top floor of Two Rodeo in Beverly Hills in May.

*

DOING THE RITE THING: Nick Coe isn’t taking any chances that customers might not notice an upgrade in quality since he began cooking at Rite Spot in Pasadena. The chef, who once cooked at Parkway Grill, has slyly taped up a massive paper banner in the window reading, “Now Serving Food.”

*

PUTTIN’ ON THE PRIX-FIXE: You don’t have to borrow on your Gold Card to eat dinner at the Ritz. The Newport Beach restaurant, known for old-fashioned splendor and state-of-the-art prices, now offers a Sunday prix-fixe dinner for $24.50. Chef Claude Koeberle’s special three-course menu includes soup or salad, choice of four entrees such as “prime rib” of pork with cabbage and apple sauce, or leg of lamb with root vegetables and fettuccine, and the dessert sampler.

Advertisement

*

STOCKPOT: Mama’s Original Pizza & Pasta (West Los Angeles, Marina del Rey and Hermosa Beach) has been named one of America’s 100 leading independent restaurants by the trade magazine Pizza Today. . . . Xavier Deshayes, former sous-chef at Citrus on Melrose, is now in charge of the kitchen at Four Seasons Hotel at Beverly Hills.

*

FABRE IN THE USA: Joachim Splichal has invited Jean-Claude Fabre, the chef of Leonce in the little village of Florensac, near Montpellier, to cook at his Studio City Pinot Bistro for three nights, beginning Monday. A prix-fixe , five-course dinner costs $55; four courses, $45.

*

WINGS: Trattoria Angeli on Santa Monica Boulevard in West L.A., the second--and some say best--of Evan Kleiman’s much-copied Angeli restaurants, will close in April. The original Angeli Caffe on Melrose and Angeli Mare in Marina del Rey will continue operating. Kleiman closed Angeli in the Rodeo Collection--the fourth of her rustic Italian restaurants--last year.

Advertisement